5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
01-24-2012 | 05:19 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: SoCal
Checked all the drive and its all free. Clicker is set to 4wd. I have since changed to the smaller overdrive pulley on the front for more front pull. (is this what everyone is doing because otherwise its way too loose on the rear.
Coming out of corners is better but I still want more front drive/pull. The rear breaks traction too easily under power coming out of corners.
Either I need to get more rear grip or more front drive. And this will stop the rear going out coming into corners. It even goes out on tarmac coming into corners with the front overdrive pulley attached.
Coming out of corners is better but I still want more front drive/pull. The rear breaks traction too easily under power coming out of corners.
Either I need to get more rear grip or more front drive. And this will stop the rear going out coming into corners. It even goes out on tarmac coming into corners with the front overdrive pulley attached.
You should be able to get the rear end sorted without having to use the front overdrive as a solution for another handling issue.
What type of track are you running?
What tires are you running?
How do you have your shocks setup?
What springs?
What diff fluids are you running?
I would suggest going through the entire truck and start with a good base setup and work from there.
01-24-2012 | 05:20 AM
Checked all the drive and its all free. Clicker is set to 4wd. I have since changed to the smaller overdrive pulley on the front for more front pull. (is this what everyone is doing because otherwise its way too loose on the rear.
Coming out of corners is better but I still want more front drive/pull. The rear breaks traction too easily under power coming out of corners.
Either I need to get more rear grip or more front drive. And this will stop the rear going out coming into corners. It even goes out on tarmac coming into corners with the front overdrive pulley attached.
Coming out of corners is better but I still want more front drive/pull. The rear breaks traction too easily under power coming out of corners.
Either I need to get more rear grip or more front drive. And this will stop the rear going out coming into corners. It even goes out on tarmac coming into corners with the front overdrive pulley attached.
and besides that, the center balldiff really helps the truck
what are your trackconditions like?
01-24-2012 | 05:39 AM
The SCTE is finally dead! 
Got everything moved over into the SC10 just in time to drive 10hrs and race it haha.
It's got a few upgrades on it; sways, hexes, basket, triple garodisc.
Running a 12t 32p with a Tekin SC4X 4.5. I just ran it around the driveway to make sure everything was okay and it felt ridiculously fast, accelerates a lot harder than I ever remember the Losi accelerating!
Setup? Haha, I have no idea, bought it used off of a local racer whom I have a lot of respect for, he built it very well, the truck is in great shape. I'll probably tweak the setup a good bit at the track. Front feel stiff, I'll probably just dump the shock oil when I get to the track and start with 35wt AE all around or something as a starting point.
Those of you still running stick packs, where are you running your battery (ie: as far forward as possible, as far backwards as possible or in the middle of the tray)? Just wondering. I usually run it as far forward as I can by default, but with the steering this thing has I may move it all the way back.
Stoked to race it though!
Got everything moved over into the SC10 just in time to drive 10hrs and race it haha.
It's got a few upgrades on it; sways, hexes, basket, triple garodisc.
Running a 12t 32p with a Tekin SC4X 4.5. I just ran it around the driveway to make sure everything was okay and it felt ridiculously fast, accelerates a lot harder than I ever remember the Losi accelerating!
Setup? Haha, I have no idea, bought it used off of a local racer whom I have a lot of respect for, he built it very well, the truck is in great shape. I'll probably tweak the setup a good bit at the track. Front feel stiff, I'll probably just dump the shock oil when I get to the track and start with 35wt AE all around or something as a starting point.
Those of you still running stick packs, where are you running your battery (ie: as far forward as possible, as far backwards as possible or in the middle of the tray)? Just wondering. I usually run it as far forward as I can by default, but with the steering this thing has I may move it all the way back.
Stoked to race it though!
i cant wait to see another fast AE at the pro series race in houston. i am still running stick pack in the middle position btw. 35wt wil be to thick for mikes,i using 25wt frnt and 20wt rear, the front feels too stiff most likely from thick shock oil. anyhow, feel free to turm some lap with my truck to try to find a setup, and if you need any help with anything, just ask
Marcus and i will be wearing our RcShox t-shirts.
01-24-2012 | 06:02 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 141
From: Sydney
Tight loose, neither are probably your issue. it's chassis flex under deceleration. Want to cure it, add a chassis brace.
After running the same belt/pulleys/tensioners since last May, it finally happened with my truck. All it took was a lawn dart into a jump face. Next corner, heavy braking, belt came off.
Time for a brace. Then you won't be forced to compromise your tension.
After running the same belt/pulleys/tensioners since last May, it finally happened with my truck. All it took was a lawn dart into a jump face. Next corner, heavy braking, belt came off.
Time for a brace. Then you won't be forced to compromise your tension.
A chasis brace will make the problem worse. The front tensioner flexes up under braking from the belt pressure pushing up on it. Take the front belt cover off and simulate braking on the front wheels and if the belt doesnt skip you will see the tensioner will flex up and guide the belt to run off it.
01-24-2012 | 06:06 AM
A chasis brace will make the problem worse. The front tensioner flexes up under braking from the belt pressure pushing up on it. Take the front belt cover off and simulate braking on the front wheels and if the belt doesnt skip you will see the tensioner will flex up and guide the belt to run off it.
01-24-2012 | 06:28 AM
HUH?? You are more locked up with the slipper than with the dif. Which is why you will never eat an idler gear with a center dif. You have not tried the cdif so how can you speculate on its performance? I have driven both and the cdif is clearly better than ANY slipper setup on any surface. Just like on every other competetive SC, including the one that is giving us all issues.
01-24-2012 | 06:44 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 141
From: Sydney
Try it on your own truck. Take the front belt cover off so you can see the belt, set your brakes to on and turn both front wheels forward by hand and watch the tensioner. It will flex up. Becuase it is flexed up, it creates an outwards angle and encourages the belt to run off of it as it travels forward under braking tension. Hope I explained it properly lol.
So, unless the belt is heaps loose to allow for lots of braking belt skip and less pressure on the tensioner (so it doesnt flex) , it will most likely come off under brakes.
01-24-2012 | 06:51 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 202
From: CALIFORNIA
i have found that the loose rear end come from a lack of stability. around here(houston) the tracks are medium/large, and fast with medium grip. through the high speed sweepers and whatnot, it was easy to break the back end los, and when that happened it was uncontrollable. what I have recently done to my setup to make it better is by adding more shims to the from and rear inner camber links, and by going up in to a thicker swaybay front and rear.
and besides that, the center balldiff really helps the truck
what are your trackconditions like?
and besides that, the center balldiff really helps the truck
what are your trackconditions like?
symmetricon - Nice Tips! Sounds similar to track that I visit...
Can you share how many shims for Front and Rear Inner Camber Links? Also, what Swaybars did you settle on for Front and Rear and what Diff Oil do you use with the Center Balldiff set-up if you don't mind me asking?
Many Thanks!
01-24-2012 | 06:55 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
HUH?? You are more locked up with the slipper than with the dif. Which is why you will never eat an idler gear with a center dif. You have not tried the cdif so how can you speculate on its performance? I have driven both and the cdif is clearly better than ANY slipper setup on any surface. Just like on every other competetive SC, including the one that is giving us all issues.
I have yet to try the 3diff , so you will not find comments from me in regard . Just defending the slipper as many put it in bad light when the facts are anyone can do very well with the slipper..
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 01-24-2012 at 08:43 AM.
01-24-2012 | 06:59 AM
Try it on your own truck. Take the front belt cover off so you can see the belt, set your brakes to on and turn both front wheels forward by hand and watch the tensioner. It will flex up. Becuase it is flexed up, it creates an outwards angle and encourages the belt to run off of it as it travels forward under braking tension. Hope I explained it properly lol.
So, unless the belt is heaps loose to allow for lots of braking belt skip and less pressure on the tensioner (so it doesnt flex) , it will most likely come off under brakes.
So, unless the belt is heaps loose to allow for lots of braking belt skip and less pressure on the tensioner (so it doesnt flex) , it will most likely come off under brakes.
I have never once had the belt come off. Before -and- after I installed a chassis Brace.
The Tensioner 'moving'? My Truck does no such thing, Under any circumstance. (and I mean 150% brake speed runs, and Bashing sessions)
01-24-2012 | 07:31 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 141
From: Sydney
Hmmm. Do you have the clicker set for front braking? Do you get belt skip under brakes? On my truck it is impossible to tighten the belt enough to get no brake belt skipping. It will come off everytime under brakes if its tight. And the reason is because the tensioner flexes.
01-24-2012 | 07:39 AM
Try it on your own truck. Take the front belt cover off so you can see the belt, set your brakes to on and turn both front wheels forward by hand and watch the tensioner. It will flex up. Becuase it is flexed up, it creates an outwards angle and encourages the belt to run off of it as it travels forward under braking tension. Hope I explained it properly lol.
So, unless the belt is heaps loose to allow for lots of braking belt skip and less pressure on the tensioner (so it doesnt flex) , it will most likely come off under brakes.
01-24-2012 | 07:56 AM
Oh yeah? How'd you like it?
Just because guys are winning races with it, doesn't mean it's perfect. Certainly if you race on smooth, or flowing, or indoor tracks, or motor down, it's okay.
, so you will not find comments from me in regard . Just defending the slipper as many put it in bad light when the facts are anyone can do very well with the slipper..
01-24-2012 | 08:06 AM
Hmmm. Do you have the clicker set for front braking? Do you get belt skip under brakes? On my truck it is impossible to tighten the belt enough to get no brake belt skipping. It will come off everytime under brakes if its tight. And the reason is because the tensioner flexes.
01-24-2012 | 08:08 AM
symmetricon - Nice Tips! Sounds similar to track that I visit...
Can you share how many shims for Front and Rear Inner Camber Links? Also, what Swaybars did you settle on for Front and Rear and what Diff Oil do you use with the Center Balldiff set-up if you don't mind me asking?
Many Thanks!
Can you share how many shims for Front and Rear Inner Camber Links? Also, what Swaybars did you settle on for Front and Rear and what Diff Oil do you use with the Center Balldiff set-up if you don't mind me asking?
Many Thanks!
front: diff 7k(need higher for more on power steering, but it is real stable ad easy to drive) 5mm of shims under inner camber mount / thickest swaybar / yellow spring / 25wt 2 stage pistonsl/ outer hole a-arm / middle hole tower
rear: 5k( diff was actually empty this last weekend) 2mm of shims in rear / medium swaybar / blue spring / 20wt 2stage pistons / outer hole a-arm / middle home tower
center diff: I ended up tightening to down, it was diffing out too easily on step downs while onpower.( still using pre-production diff with 3mm bals instead of 4mm)