will you have a parts kit to up date the old one with all the new parts in one bag or box?

[QUOTE=rickybobbyxxx;10267120]If u run the center diff u can mash on it anytime and the truck just plants and goes[/QUOTE]
There is a center diff got the sc10 4x4?? Please share where to get!

I dealt with this same issue with the rear end being loose in sweepers and getting into the throttle hard out of turns. One thing to realize is that changing the fluid in the front diff will make the truck handle very different. If you have not tested with different front diff fluid weights, you need to. It is not one fluid suits everyone or every track kind of thing. It is very much a driver preference.

A heavier front fluid will make make the front wheels pull the truck more...down the straights and turns. It helps stabilize the rear end from wanting to come around on itself in sweepers and does give you more on power steering, however, at the expense of a wider turning radius. This can work great on certain tracks with limited traction or tracks that don't have tight 180deg turns.

I ran 30K front / 5K rear with 2.0 sway bars and blue springs F/R. Ran the shocks with 32.5 F / 27.5 R, no boots and 1 x ring with shock eye turned 3 turns out. Camber links in stock location with no washers. Track was hard packed and watered to drying with medium traction and smooth. With medium traction the truck felt planted and you could get on the throttle hard. Truck felt balanced and would power through the turns. You could slide it slightly which would make up for the slower turning due to the 30K diff fluid up front. This was the setup that Stephen Bess drove and liked.

The following week the track was wet and tacky with more grip. The truck turned too slow in the tight turns. I changed the front diff fluid to 10K from the 30K I had in originally. Truck was completely different in the way it handled. It turned on a dime on power, however, at the expense of being loose in the rear. I had problems getting onto the straightaway hard on throttle and in the sweeper. The truck felt like it had way more body roll and not as stable. I added 2mm under the front ball stud and this helped but it still was not as planted with the 30K in the front diff even with more grip. I tried putting in the yellow front springs and while it helped with the rear end, it slowed the steering down a little too much. I can take the 2mm out of the front ball studs to get the steering back but the truck felt better to me with the front blue springs. All a balancing act.

Bottom line is, you need to test different front diff fluid weights to see what suits your track and driving style. My setup may not work for your track or driving style and vice versa. Find a front diff fluid weight that is enough to pull the truck and have good on power steering but turn tight enough for you. You then need to make the proper camber link adjustments for proper balance F/R along with your shock setup. Only make one change at a time because even a small adjustment can make a big change in how the truck handles.

has anyone tried using the clicker at all when they need more steering? If so, what are you seeing when using it and where are you seeing a benefit?

My understanding if its correct is that the front clicker will let the front wheels freewheel more off power.

There is a center diff got the sc10 4x4?? Please share where to get![/QUOTE]

http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/i...hp?cPath=23_26

Yes the clicker allows the truck to brake like a 2wd. I tried it on a large outdoor clay track and didnt really like it. It did give me a bit more steering but felt slower through the corner. Easy to adjust give it a shot.

Front wheel breaking is one of the main reasons I like to run 4x4 in the first place, so it kind of defeats the purpose for me.

eta on the new ft parts ty?

Does running the center diff when you buy it does it come with center drive shafts or hour does it work

I use the clicker but not like it was designed to be used. I use it to help pitch the truck alot easier and more pronounced if you will. Its tight enough to not click when braking into a corner but loose enough that if I stab the brakes while the truck is in the air, it clicks and pitches the truck nicely.

You understanding is correct. It allows the front wheels to continue spinning while under braking and locks the rears up without slowing the fronts at all. I used it once at a really tight and loose track to throw my truck around all the 180 turns because it was faster than slowing down and turning in.

Hey Jarosz,

Howd you like the Reedy race?

It basically replaces the pads with metal washers, and has holes drilled in the spur to hold the ball bearings. this Since the slipper plates are connected independently front and rear it transfer power to each side evenly depending on how much resistance is applied to each plate.

Raising the roll center makes the effective moment between the CG shorter. It makes the car more responsive, makes the car more resistant to roll, and takes away traction. If you are traction rolling, this isn't a bad trade off because giving up a little grip is better that being on your lid.

Adding shims under the inner ball stud will move the instant center further out (longer), induces more chassis roll because the effective moment between the CG and the roll center longer, and increases weight transfer.

Something else to be mindful of - as the suspension moves, the roll center, the instant center, and the CG all move.



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...oll-center.gif

Reversing the stock ack bar so the ball stud holes are further back calms the truck down, right? It appears that this will be the same as the rcshox ack bar in the furthest back holes. Any input on this? Seems like a free and easy mod that would help the truck. Thanks.