Got these in the mail the other day, probably won't have time to install them until another week or so due to work.....


RPM F/R arms and strc 3-2 rear arm mount:

So i was up until about 5am this morning working on the kit. I took my time on it reading through the forum here and others. Straight build time without my ciggs/internet/youtube breaks it took me about 4 hours from start to finish. I already had the motor/esc wired up and the rx linked. Go to test fit it my lipos this morning and out of the 2s lipos I have, 2 only fit. What a bummer I for sure thought the Turnigy hardcase lipos would fit. Only the soft packs fit. Even my Hyperion 45C 5000mah did not fit. So I was a little bumped cause it would have been a couple more hours until daylight and I could have tested on my backyard track. Now I am taking the center apart and switching sides. The other side is so much better with tons of room. Any tips/tricks on what to do.

Thanks

Terry

i got the batteries on the right hand side of the truck..

The turnigy 5000 hardcase fits, it was used this past weekend.

I know this is not the "FOR SALE" page but I figure no one will complain, especially the guy that gets these hop ups. All mounted to a SC10 4x4 that saw -0- action.

$180.00 worth of parts for $120.00 shipped

Factory team shocks (needs one plastic cartridge since only 3 out of 4 threaded.) (FRONT AND REAR)
FT Titanium Turnbuckles
FT Alum wheel hex
FT Front and rear sway bars

Thanks

Nope, still down here in H'twon with all the slow guys like Joor, and JB, and Smiley, Jake, Mark, etc. Cristian has been running some offroad again. Smiley is bad fast with his Losi 4wd SC, somebody needs to find something for him. Saw your post about battery config. I think I'm going to try the saddle conversion at some point. I'm going to run some saddles I have anyway, might as well move them up front and compare.

Well at least you got one thing right, 'THIS IS NOT THE FS SECTION'........

I have a set of the RPM arms. For the first time ever, they are better than the AE ones when it comes to stiffness. 1/4 the deflection with about 2x the force applied.

If stiffness is your concern, buy without fear. How long they last? Can't say yet.

Thank you

Hi Art,
Are you adding a 3mm limiter to the front shocks? If so, I just want to understand how it can resolve your problem. Thanks

Cant find the hot racing diffs anywhere. Anyone have a link?

I had to add 4mm to the front shocks to limit up travel. And 3 in the rear.

I said this nearly 5 pages ago. (and he is correct)

Wanted to share some build info in regards to running the lipo on the other side. Finished the build this morning and test fitted some of my lipos and most did not fit. I tried twisting and turning and bending and it was a no go. So I had seen some others run the battery on the other side because of the fan guard being out of the way.

First I went ahead and used the optional center support piece.


Next I like the way the rx box is and it’s big enough to put a Spektrum glitch buster in it. (have 2 castle bec’s coming) Also it’s not like any weight needs to be shed. I cut the little tab off the one side and it fit right in there perfectly. Now since it was moved there was no antenna mount. I use 2.4 so the length will be small. I had some grommets and one fit perfectly to the diameter of the antenna. I drilled the box and put the grommet in there. Put the antenna in and it’s a perfect fit and may even be water/dust tight.






Next I had to decide if I wanted to directly mount the esc to the chassis or some kind of plate. Since the battery and motor is on one side I had room to spare with weight. I have some 3mm aluminum that I use for various stuff so I cut a piece to fit in between the rx box and front chassis end. Drilled to small holes on the bottom to secure it and mounted the switch and esc to it. I have some industrial strength double sided tape that works like wonders and used it on them both. Now I can remove the 2 screws and it comes out as one unit and adds to weight to the lighter side.





Next was that the esc was barely too high and would hit the underside of the belt guard. Since the fan had already failed I cut the top off the case. Seems to me it would have better air flow over the heat sink vs. all the plastic and broken fan. I can always buy a new case and fan if needed so no big deal here. As for temps I gear appropriately on all my trucks.

Now that that side was done I moved to the other side and had to think of a way to strap the lipo in. I had seen some people do little mods here and there but I wanted to use the stock brace since that side had a hole for the lock. I ended up cutting the whole part out of a Traxxas Slash battery brace. From there I had to notch the top so the brace could move up and down depending on what lipo I use. Looking on how to mount it there was that little ridged part that connected the rx box to. It was an exact fit on top of that and under the rear top plate. So me loving to use CA glue on most things I glued her up. The only force is up and down and the rear to plate would do almost all the supporting so no need to drill and screw it up and there wasn’t enough material to do it anyway. I also trimmed the chassis where the antenna mount was so the lipo could fit square in there. Lipo tested and fit were a Turnigy 2s 5200mah hard case, a Turnigy 2s 5000mah soft case, and a Hyperion 2s 5000mah soft case.

After all that it was about done. Just had to reroute the wires and reassemble the belt guards. Ended up going under the guard for the motor to esc wires and sensored wire and over the guard for the power plugs. Also because I resolder almost all my lipos with new wire to my length that I like and because they put that huge 8g wire on that makes it impossible to work with. Also because of how the wires exit the pack. I make them to wear I can run them in many of my trucks and not have to cut up the battery trays/doors to make them work. It’s time consuming but well worth it to me. I used some zip ties to hold the wire out of the way and inline with the belt guards.








All in all the truck was fun to build especially with a power tool. I still have to paint the body, wire the bec, and redo the shock. I have added sway bars front and rear, STRC aluminum pulleys front and rear, 30k diff oil in the front, 5k diff oil in the rear, MMP esc, Tekin 4.5 motor, Savox 1267 servo, FT aluminum hexes, FT HT slipper pads, and on the way some of those upgraded shock o-rings. I guess they are on back order till next month or so. I also need to get some mod .8 5mm shaft pinions since my original plan was to use a castle 3800 motor that has the 3mm shaft. I have a ton of pinions for the 3mm shaft but not for 5mm shafts in mod .8 gearing. Trying out 14/62 for now since it’s all I got. Need to get some decent wheels as well. Oh and have some DE Racing wheels coming to.
That’s it for now. I will report back once the rest of the parts get here and I can finally drive it. I also have a Losi SCTE coming so I will see which one suits my driving style better. One last thing, I think I still need some weight on the electronics side so can I use the Losi stick weights for this and if so how do I position them in order to balance the truck out.
Thanks for looking.

Terry