5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-10-2011 | 06:58 AM
#8326
And congrats to all the AE guys at the last race..... And to Tebo as well.......
10-10-2011 | 07:53 AM
#8328
Tech Regular
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 323
From: Catalunya, Spain
Three years since I bought it, well over 200 cycles, still powers the SC10 4x4 with nice power... Since the last 6 charges it's been degrading rather fast, it charges only to 4200mAh now...
But hey, three years, one pack, more than 200 cycles and STILL WORKS!! It was $59 back in the day.
Astonishing.
10-10-2011 | 08:57 AM
#8329
Race report from the indoor nats in Garland tx
i need some forum help with this rig, i cant put my finger on it and it just may be a simple as the truck doesnt fit my driving style.
i had BAD electrical issues all day saturday and only finished the fourth qualifier and that netted me 8th in the A. i had a borrowed radio that i didnt like but i got the job done. i had two MMP's go bad and both would stop after 5minutes every time! threw on my GTB and had no further issues.......
i struggled with the setup up pretty much all weekend granted the majority of my efforts were trying to fix the electrical stuff so i was more concerned with making run time. so after the qualifiers were done on saturday i stayed 4 hours until the doors closed trying to get it to handle right. first main on sunday i dropped a second off of my time from saturday even with the weird radio so i know i was heading in the right direction, funny thing is i almost ended up back where i started from in the beginning! the track had big air jumps with hard landings so i had to run thicker oil than i typically do, ended up with 45f 1.2/1.3 32.5r 1.1/1.2. second round i had a good race without too much drama and managed to pull off a 5th with a finish line drag race! for some reason without making any changes the truck was horrible in the third main and i could do no more than 7th even though i was fourth most of the race. i ended up 7th over all with a Rango in fourth and the rest were Losi's.
so here is what i think are my concerns and hopefully i can get them lined out
1) rotation: basically there is none! and that is making my turn entry slow. the truck will turn on a dime but you cant pitch it in or out of the turns.
2) acceleration and traction: acceleration is superb but almost too good, since there is no center dif the front tires barely stay on the ground, while it looks cool i flipped the truck backward numerous times no matter how loose or tight i set the slipper is and you dont have much on power steering and that forces you to line up for jumps much earlier than needed. as soon as you come off of the throttle weight transfers to the front giving too much steering until it levels out.
i ended up with 16/62 20* endbell timing with a novak ballistic 4.5, it had plenty of speed and tq and i had no problems out accelerating the losis but would get rear ended going into the turn and that is how i would get passed.
maybe different Antisquat settings, maybe thicker rear dif fluid and thinner front 20/10??
maybe pinning the front slipper?
maybe a combo of all of these?
i know this is just one race at one track and it may be perfect this weekend at my local track but the characteristics remain the same.
i need some forum help with this rig, i cant put my finger on it and it just may be a simple as the truck doesnt fit my driving style.
i had BAD electrical issues all day saturday and only finished the fourth qualifier and that netted me 8th in the A. i had a borrowed radio that i didnt like but i got the job done. i had two MMP's go bad and both would stop after 5minutes every time! threw on my GTB and had no further issues.......
i struggled with the setup up pretty much all weekend granted the majority of my efforts were trying to fix the electrical stuff so i was more concerned with making run time. so after the qualifiers were done on saturday i stayed 4 hours until the doors closed trying to get it to handle right. first main on sunday i dropped a second off of my time from saturday even with the weird radio so i know i was heading in the right direction, funny thing is i almost ended up back where i started from in the beginning! the track had big air jumps with hard landings so i had to run thicker oil than i typically do, ended up with 45f 1.2/1.3 32.5r 1.1/1.2. second round i had a good race without too much drama and managed to pull off a 5th with a finish line drag race! for some reason without making any changes the truck was horrible in the third main and i could do no more than 7th even though i was fourth most of the race. i ended up 7th over all with a Rango in fourth and the rest were Losi's.
so here is what i think are my concerns and hopefully i can get them lined out
1) rotation: basically there is none! and that is making my turn entry slow. the truck will turn on a dime but you cant pitch it in or out of the turns.
2) acceleration and traction: acceleration is superb but almost too good, since there is no center dif the front tires barely stay on the ground, while it looks cool i flipped the truck backward numerous times no matter how loose or tight i set the slipper is and you dont have much on power steering and that forces you to line up for jumps much earlier than needed. as soon as you come off of the throttle weight transfers to the front giving too much steering until it levels out.
i ended up with 16/62 20* endbell timing with a novak ballistic 4.5, it had plenty of speed and tq and i had no problems out accelerating the losis but would get rear ended going into the turn and that is how i would get passed.
maybe different Antisquat settings, maybe thicker rear dif fluid and thinner front 20/10??
maybe pinning the front slipper?
maybe a combo of all of these?
i know this is just one race at one track and it may be perfect this weekend at my local track but the characteristics remain the same.
If you want rotation then stand up the rear shocks and move the lower to the outer hole on the arm. If you angle the rear camber link down on the shock tower (less spacers) it will make it loose in the rear.
As far as on power steering the way I have found it was to limit up-travel in the front shocks and you could try the 3x2 rear pin mount.
I`m running 47.5 front oil and 32 rear.
Paul
10-10-2011 | 09:34 AM
#8330
R/C Tech Elite Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,111
From: Ca
Changes that made my drive drivable and compete:
shim front and rear inner camber link 5/3mm
run 20k front 5k rear
2.0 sways F&R
clutch basket or the cool fiber slipper plates, both work and need both for some tracks, I usually start with AE HD inner and fiber outer no basket and tune from there if I need more I go basket
Last thing that dialed my truck: Jconcepts, sorry tbird
, Hazard wheels. wow planted and can "Losi throw it in now" if need.
oh and I own both sc10 4x4 AND losi scte btw
shim front and rear inner camber link 5/3mm
run 20k front 5k rear
2.0 sways F&R
clutch basket or the cool fiber slipper plates, both work and need both for some tracks, I usually start with AE HD inner and fiber outer no basket and tune from there if I need more I go basket
Last thing that dialed my truck: Jconcepts, sorry tbird
, Hazard wheels. wow planted and can "Losi throw it in now" if need.oh and I own both sc10 4x4 AND losi scte btw
10-10-2011 | 09:43 AM
#8332
I see that just about everybody has the High Torque slipper pads. But where are you guys finding the FIBER ones? I take it that they are not strictly for the SC10 4x4? Anybody got a LINK? Thanks! 
10-10-2011 | 09:54 AM
#8333
1) rotation: basically there is none! and that is making my turn entry slow. the truck will turn on a dime but you cant pitch it in or out of the turns.
2) acceleration and traction: acceleration is superb but almost too good, since there is no center dif the front tires barely stay on the ground, while it looks cool i flipped the truck backward numerous times no matter how loose or tight i set the slipper is and you dont have much on power steering and that forces you to line up for jumps much earlier than needed. as soon as you come off of the throttle weight transfers to the front giving too much steering until it levels out.
2) acceleration and traction: acceleration is superb but almost too good, since there is no center dif the front tires barely stay on the ground, while it looks cool i flipped the truck backward numerous times no matter how loose or tight i set the slipper is and you dont have much on power steering and that forces you to line up for jumps much earlier than needed. as soon as you come off of the throttle weight transfers to the front giving too much steering until it levels out.
Pin the front slipper disc (the one that cogs the front belt) to the transmission rear topshaft. I took the thrust bearing out and replaced it with a shim, seemed to help a bunch, but not as good as pinning it I'm sure. None of the AE guys were running 550s until they started pinning the diff.
How much ballast do you have in the truck? With the 540 my truck needed none, but with the 550 it needs 90 grams or so next to the gear cover and 2 oz between the servo and the battery (assuming you are running saddle packs).
The Ballistic motor is factory set at 30 degrees. You actually have the motor retarded 10 degrees from there. I would increase timing to 30 degrees and reduce your pinion to 12. If you need more rip you can increase the timing up to 45 degrees. More gear/less timing seems to make the motor make more torque early and that makes the problem worse.
10-10-2011 | 10:00 AM
#8334
10-10-2011 | 10:04 AM
#8336
Don't throw the towel in just yet.
Also, are your a arms flat? My truck was downright evil offpower before I found I had one arm that was bent like 3/32" between the inner hinge pin and the sway bar mount, bound up the whole front end. I had noticed that the cross weight was changing from round to round but I couldn't figure it out. You have to take them off the truck to inspect them. Mine looked fine on the truck and they absolutely weren't.
Pin the front slipper disc (the one that cogs the front belt) to the transmission rear topshaft. I took the thrust bearing out and replaced it with a shim, seemed to help a bunch, but not as good as pinning it I'm sure. None of the AE guys were running 550s until they started pinning the diff.
How much ballast do you have in the truck? With the 540 my truck needed none, but with the 550 it needs 90 grams or so next to the gear cover and 2 oz between the servo and the battery (assuming you are running saddle packs).
The Ballistic motor is factory set at 30 degrees. You actually have the motor retarded 10 degrees from there. I would increase timing to 30 degrees and reduce your pinion to 12. If you need more rip you can increase the timing up to 45 degrees. More gear/less timing seems to make the motor make more torque early and that makes the problem worse.
Also, are your a arms flat? My truck was downright evil offpower before I found I had one arm that was bent like 3/32" between the inner hinge pin and the sway bar mount, bound up the whole front end. I had noticed that the cross weight was changing from round to round but I couldn't figure it out. You have to take them off the truck to inspect them. Mine looked fine on the truck and they absolutely weren't.
Pin the front slipper disc (the one that cogs the front belt) to the transmission rear topshaft. I took the thrust bearing out and replaced it with a shim, seemed to help a bunch, but not as good as pinning it I'm sure. None of the AE guys were running 550s until they started pinning the diff.
How much ballast do you have in the truck? With the 540 my truck needed none, but with the 550 it needs 90 grams or so next to the gear cover and 2 oz between the servo and the battery (assuming you are running saddle packs).
The Ballistic motor is factory set at 30 degrees. You actually have the motor retarded 10 degrees from there. I would increase timing to 30 degrees and reduce your pinion to 12. If you need more rip you can increase the timing up to 45 degrees. More gear/less timing seems to make the motor make more torque early and that makes the problem worse.
10-10-2011 | 10:06 AM
#8337
Post your set up im not sure that i have seen it.
Standing shocks up will allow more rotation. even thicker rear diff oil will help but that's a fine line between losing corner traction and rotation.
nothing will cure the other drivers problem. the biggest part is that they don't stop either they drive through you.
10-10-2011 | 10:07 AM
#8338
I'm going to post a step by step later today.
Also another modification courtesy of kinwald.
A couple of must do's that change the truck into a beast
If i could just buy some more skill and an anti losi rear bumper i'd be great
Also another modification courtesy of kinwald.
A couple of must do's that change the truck into a beast
If i could just buy some more skill and an anti losi rear bumper i'd be great
10-10-2011 | 10:08 AM
#8339
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 203
From: Virginia
I know this question has been beaten to death and I looked for some anwsers but know has really anwsered the question so Ill try to ask it a lil differant. The guys that are running on a clay track what tires are u running?
10-10-2011 | 10:13 AM
#8340
Great question. I don't know other than this:
And this:
I guess I'm going to just drill a hole and try it.
Pin the rear slipper disc so it drives the front with out slip.
With just the clutch basket on the street, the truck would flip over (or wheelie) when you stab the throttle. With front pinned and clutch basket. truck goes straight like a bat out of hell.
On the track the speed carried through the corner is greatly improved and the truck overall drives different. its not the end all be all. but its one more addition to many that help tune this truck to be competitive.
With 60K front oil it caused me to snap a front cva pin. so i dropped to 30K like kinwald and no issues.
I did this because of the advice i was given by kinwald.
Picture attached.
With just the clutch basket on the street, the truck would flip over (or wheelie) when you stab the throttle. With front pinned and clutch basket. truck goes straight like a bat out of hell.
On the track the speed carried through the corner is greatly improved and the truck overall drives different. its not the end all be all. but its one more addition to many that help tune this truck to be competitive.
With 60K front oil it caused me to snap a front cva pin. so i dropped to 30K like kinwald and no issues.
I did this because of the advice i was given by kinwald.
Picture attached.