5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-20-2011 | 05:52 AM
#9076
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 201
From: denmark
Same exact problem here. Wound up running a ziptie through the slots in the tray.
PS - My SC104x4 is up for grabs (http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...2wd-buggy.html)
PS - My SC104x4 is up for grabs (http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...2wd-buggy.html)
to bad i juts order one.
are ther any problems whit drive belt ??
jumping off ore like that??
10-20-2011 | 07:46 AM
#9077
Umm...only swaybars has ThunderbirdJunkie mentioned as being band-aids.
The chassis brace is something we shouldn't need to install because Associated should have gotten the materials and/or design right in the first place. If you disagree, feel free to let ThunderbirdJunkie know.
Please, let ThunderbirdJunkie know everything he's described as a band-aid.
Let's see...30k+ weight front diff fluid? OH HEY, LOOK, GUYS ARE PINNING THEIR SLIPPERS AND USING LIGHTER DIFF FLUID; WOULDJA LOOKIT THAT. COMPENSATE FOR A POOR DESIGN AND YOU NO LONGER NEED THE BAND-AID.
Swaybars? ThunderbirdJunkie simply stated that most people use them as a band-aid for a not-quite-there setup. People were prematurely adding them and stating an improvement - which is to be expected - but most of these were box-stock trucks with mostly box-stock setups, which leads people to develop their setup with swaybars, which leads to trucks not being set up as well as they could be, thus continuing a vicious cycle of band-aiding.
Swaybars have their place, but not until the setup is getting close. Hell, that might be what ThunderbirdJunkie's truck was missing...but he won't know until he gets another one because he's still got NIP swaybars in his metric pitbox.
If you don't agree, that's fine...but ThunderbirdJunkie has not used the term "Band-aid" for much, and he hasn't said it often, either. Some people simply decide to get defensive because somebody else thinks outside of the box and doesn't want to follow simply because following is the cool thing to do; ThunderbirdJunkie never put his saddle packs down the center, and his truck was getting close to dialed. He sold it because he was tired of the lack of quality in the currently available parts, and as has happened in the past, the Factory Team will make that better. Why do you think they used the carbon in the first place? Because the normal plastic SUCKED.
Dunno how long you've been around, but ThunderbirdJunkie has watched the same exact trend with Associated of end-user development with first-run kits since 1996. If you'd like to argue these facts, why don't you talk to the long-time team drivers about the B4 and B2 and their developmental setup issues? AE has never had a good setup on ANYTHING out of the box aside from the FT SC10, and even that sucks compared to some of the RTRs.
You were thinking it was not a good idea because you know, secretly, that ThunderbirdJunkie is 100% right.
Again, the third person thing...anybody that goes against your cookie-cutter grain is crazy unless they're a pro toy car driver eh?
Who's not making sense now
Saddle packs mounted to the rear, better plastics and other materials, and higher inner ballstud mounting pieces will make this truck the world-beater it should be.
The fact that you remembered something ThunderbirdJunkie said MONTHS ago must have struck a chord, because you're clinging to it like a starving puppy to its mother's teat. That means there must be truth to it.
The chassis brace is something we shouldn't need to install because Associated should have gotten the materials and/or design right in the first place. If you disagree, feel free to let ThunderbirdJunkie know.
Please, let ThunderbirdJunkie know everything he's described as a band-aid.
Let's see...30k+ weight front diff fluid? OH HEY, LOOK, GUYS ARE PINNING THEIR SLIPPERS AND USING LIGHTER DIFF FLUID; WOULDJA LOOKIT THAT. COMPENSATE FOR A POOR DESIGN AND YOU NO LONGER NEED THE BAND-AID.
Swaybars? ThunderbirdJunkie simply stated that most people use them as a band-aid for a not-quite-there setup. People were prematurely adding them and stating an improvement - which is to be expected - but most of these were box-stock trucks with mostly box-stock setups, which leads people to develop their setup with swaybars, which leads to trucks not being set up as well as they could be, thus continuing a vicious cycle of band-aiding.
Swaybars have their place, but not until the setup is getting close. Hell, that might be what ThunderbirdJunkie's truck was missing...but he won't know until he gets another one because he's still got NIP swaybars in his metric pitbox.
If you don't agree, that's fine...but ThunderbirdJunkie has not used the term "Band-aid" for much, and he hasn't said it often, either. Some people simply decide to get defensive because somebody else thinks outside of the box and doesn't want to follow simply because following is the cool thing to do; ThunderbirdJunkie never put his saddle packs down the center, and his truck was getting close to dialed. He sold it because he was tired of the lack of quality in the currently available parts, and as has happened in the past, the Factory Team will make that better. Why do you think they used the carbon in the first place? Because the normal plastic SUCKED.
Dunno how long you've been around, but ThunderbirdJunkie has watched the same exact trend with Associated of end-user development with first-run kits since 1996. If you'd like to argue these facts, why don't you talk to the long-time team drivers about the B4 and B2 and their developmental setup issues? AE has never had a good setup on ANYTHING out of the box aside from the FT SC10, and even that sucks compared to some of the RTRs.
You were thinking it was not a good idea because you know, secretly, that ThunderbirdJunkie is 100% right.
Again, the third person thing...anybody that goes against your cookie-cutter grain is crazy unless they're a pro toy car driver eh?
Who's not making sense now
Saddle packs mounted to the rear, better plastics and other materials, and higher inner ballstud mounting pieces will make this truck the world-beater it should be.
The fact that you remembered something ThunderbirdJunkie said MONTHS ago must have struck a chord, because you're clinging to it like a starving puppy to its mother's teat. That means there must be truth to it.
10-20-2011 | 08:01 AM
#9078
[
The front chassis screw is pretty robust (it's long and goes into a lot of structure in and around the steering that is also pretty robust), but that screw in the back is going to force a TON of bending loads onto a piece of plastic that really wasn't designed to take that kind of load. Even with a bunch of washers to spread out the dead load, man....
I first just tapped and mounted rear screw to rear chasis supprt. That ended up pulling out . I then through bolted it and have yet to have any issues with mounting or rear brace dmage. As I have stated I am the lawn dart king and have tested the mount vigorously
If I can get another piece of carbon, I'm going to build one that goes from the front shock tower to the rear shock tower - there's a ton of structure to offset the brace.
Feel those towers, they seem to have alot of flex in them. I was thinking about cutting some cf sheet just to mount up against them as they seem pretty flexy for some figidity. Not sure if you would get the same chasis stiffnes from a high mount . try it and let us know .
My RPM arms rub slightly on the CVA's near the rear stub axle. I will clearance them accordingly, but doubt they would hit at all if I didn't have the extra travel in the truck.[/QUOTE]
The front chassis screw is pretty robust (it's long and goes into a lot of structure in and around the steering that is also pretty robust), but that screw in the back is going to force a TON of bending loads onto a piece of plastic that really wasn't designed to take that kind of load. Even with a bunch of washers to spread out the dead load, man....
I first just tapped and mounted rear screw to rear chasis supprt. That ended up pulling out . I then through bolted it and have yet to have any issues with mounting or rear brace dmage. As I have stated I am the lawn dart king and have tested the mount vigorously
If I can get another piece of carbon, I'm going to build one that goes from the front shock tower to the rear shock tower - there's a ton of structure to offset the brace.
Feel those towers, they seem to have alot of flex in them. I was thinking about cutting some cf sheet just to mount up against them as they seem pretty flexy for some figidity. Not sure if you would get the same chasis stiffnes from a high mount . try it and let us know .
My RPM arms rub slightly on the CVA's near the rear stub axle. I will clearance them accordingly, but doubt they would hit at all if I didn't have the extra travel in the truck.[/QUOTE]
10-20-2011 | 08:11 AM
#9080
Raced the "pinned truck" again last night. Worked well enough to beat a durango for the win.
Haven't pulled it down yet, but the new idler gear still sounded good. I ran the stock slipper w/ garodiscs, ran the slipper looser than I normally do.
I also made a 2.3mm rear swaybar. Talk about hauling ace around the sweeper! It did cost me some turn in, but it seemed to be worth it.
Down to 2mm rc shims F/R, 23mm hH, 10k/5k diffs, 35/30 F/R. stock springs, and 6 month old bar codes...... 2mm Fsway/2.3 Rsway, stick packs, and no chasssis brace.
I'm going to go back to 5k in the front diff, get some Rebars, and loose the sct esc. My mmp is off for repairs, my fault on hooking the battery up in reverse.
I've also got a rent-to-own Ballastic 4.5, looking to try that beast.
I think I've stabilized the truck enough to move away from the 3800 Greancan.
6000mah nano-techs are working well to.
Got some new diffs cases, my outdrives are wobbly as a mofo....
Haven't pulled it down yet, but the new idler gear still sounded good. I ran the stock slipper w/ garodiscs, ran the slipper looser than I normally do.
I also made a 2.3mm rear swaybar. Talk about hauling ace around the sweeper! It did cost me some turn in, but it seemed to be worth it.
Down to 2mm rc shims F/R, 23mm hH, 10k/5k diffs, 35/30 F/R. stock springs, and 6 month old bar codes...... 2mm Fsway/2.3 Rsway, stick packs, and no chasssis brace.
I'm going to go back to 5k in the front diff, get some Rebars, and loose the sct esc. My mmp is off for repairs, my fault on hooking the battery up in reverse.
I've also got a rent-to-own Ballastic 4.5, looking to try that beast.
I think I've stabilized the truck enough to move away from the 3800 Greancan.
6000mah nano-techs are working well to.
Got some new diffs cases, my outdrives are wobbly as a mofo....
10-20-2011 | 09:31 AM
#9081
Some users have commented that this brace is unnecessary because they keep their chassis screws tight. I think this is false. The belt tunnel moves more when you tension the belt (that means gas it) than it will ever do from lawn darting, and every time the tunnel moves, it acts like an automatic belt tensioning device - except it works in exactly reverse and UN-tensions the belt. To me, the tubular CF chassis brace is a belt stabilization device. Just because you can't observe it doesn't mean it's not happening.
I considered making a CF top tunnel brace, but there are so many wierd bends it started to hurt my head and I gave up. A belt tunnel made from that uber stiff FT plastic would be dialed.
10-20-2011 | 09:49 AM
#9082
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Quick help with balance connector
Hey guys, sorry if this is an inappropriate place to post, but I want to get the issue resolved quick so I can get the right parts if need be:
I got the Protek (amain brand) battery that uses the bullet style connectors. From the description I thought it came with the balance plug, but apparently it only came with the bullet connector and no wire or balance plug.
Can I solder a regular 2s balance plug onto it (from an old dead battery) or do I need something special?
Thanks for the help, I'm also googling the solution and will post results if I figure it out first.
I got the Protek (amain brand) battery that uses the bullet style connectors. From the description I thought it came with the balance plug, but apparently it only came with the bullet connector and no wire or balance plug.
Can I solder a regular 2s balance plug onto it (from an old dead battery) or do I need something special?
Thanks for the help, I'm also googling the solution and will post results if I figure it out first.
10-20-2011 | 09:54 AM
#9083
Hey guys, sorry if this is an inappropriate place to post, but I want to get the issue resolved quick so I can get the right parts if need be:
I got the Protek (amain brand) battery that uses the bullet style connectors. From the description I thought it came with the balance plug, but apparently it only came with the bullet connector and no wire or balance plug.
Can I solder a regular 2s balance plug onto it (from an old dead battery) or do I need something special?
Thanks for the help, I'm also googling the solution and will post results if I figure it out first.
I got the Protek (amain brand) battery that uses the bullet style connectors. From the description I thought it came with the balance plug, but apparently it only came with the bullet connector and no wire or balance plug.
Can I solder a regular 2s balance plug onto it (from an old dead battery) or do I need something special?
Thanks for the help, I'm also googling the solution and will post results if I figure it out first.
You need one of these:
You should be able to solder it up just make sure it is wired correctly
10-20-2011 | 09:56 AM
#9084
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Hey guys, sorry if this is an inappropriate place to post, but I want to get the issue resolved quick so I can get the right parts if need be:
I got the Protek (amain brand) battery that uses the bullet style connectors. From the description I thought it came with the balance plug, but apparently it only came with the bullet connector and no wire or balance plug.
Can I solder a regular 2s balance plug onto it (from an old dead battery) or do I need something special?
Thanks for the help, I'm also googling the solution and will post results if I figure it out first.
I got the Protek (amain brand) battery that uses the bullet style connectors. From the description I thought it came with the balance plug, but apparently it only came with the bullet connector and no wire or balance plug.
Can I solder a regular 2s balance plug onto it (from an old dead battery) or do I need something special?
Thanks for the help, I'm also googling the solution and will post results if I figure it out first.
I see now it's just the balance wire that I solder to the small plug then hook the positive and neg to the main leads on the banana plug wire.
10-20-2011 | 10:00 AM
#9085
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
I was also going to direct solder the esc to the motor. However does that make a big difference on this truck? It's always nice to be able to disconnect the motor from esc if it's not a big difference otherwise.
10-20-2011 | 10:07 AM
#9086
The belt tunnel moves more when you tension the belt (that means gas it) than it will ever do from lawn darting, and every time the tunnel moves, it acts like an automatic belt tensioning device - except it works in exactly reverse and UN-tensions the belt.
The track I run has a 180 turn leading into a sweeper. When you come out of the 180 hard around the sweeper the truck flex is just right to start the belt skipping. Talk about frustrating. I am hoping the brace will eliminate this but not expecting much more than that.
If your trying to reinforce against lawn darting I think your just pushing you failure to other places that will be worse to deal with than just your belt comming off.
10-20-2011 | 10:08 AM
#9087
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,104
From: Texas
The Jimmy
"The Jimmy" is the 105th episode of the NBC sitcom Seinfeld. This was the 19th episode for the 6th season. It originally aired on March 16, 1995.
Jerry, George and Kramer finished playing a game of basketball with Jimmy (Anthony Starke), a man who always refers to himself in the third person. Jimmy is wearing special training shoes (band-aids) which supposedly improve vertical leap, and George wants a pair so they can be matching twins.
sorry Jimmy, er, I mean t-bird, could not help it.
Jerry, George and Kramer finished playing a game of basketball with Jimmy (Anthony Starke), a man who always refers to himself in the third person. Jimmy is wearing special training shoes (band-aids
) which supposedly improve vertical leap, and George wants a pair so they can be matching twins. sorry Jimmy, er, I mean t-bird, could not help it.
10-20-2011 | 10:15 AM
#9089
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,229
From: Bay City, TX
See below.
Thanks. Since I only plan to use the battery just for this truck I think I'm just going to solder bullets to the esc and plug it straight into the battery, then solder the balance plug onto the charging cable.
Bingo! Exactly what I was thinking about doing with mine. Just solder a jumper wire with bullet connectors for the opposite side, and be sure (of course) that you have the correct polarity when you hook everything up. You don't need the balance tap assembly when you're running the car.
I was also going to direct solder the esc to the motor. However does that make a big difference on this truck? It's always nice to be able to disconnect the motor from esc if it's not a big difference otherwise.
The bullet style connectors are pretty darn efficient. That said, it's still 2 additional solder joints over just hard wiring the motor, and the shorter the wires and the fewer the connections, the less resitance. I like my motors hard wired, 35 seconds to heat an iron and another 10 or so to take 3 wires off. Not much longer than pulling bullet connectors apart LOL. As good as teh batteries and motors and connectors are now it probably doesn't make that much difference anymore, but I'll take every little mechanical edge I can get.
Bingo! Exactly what I was thinking about doing with mine. Just solder a jumper wire with bullet connectors for the opposite side, and be sure (of course) that you have the correct polarity when you hook everything up. You don't need the balance tap assembly when you're running the car.
I was also going to direct solder the esc to the motor. However does that make a big difference on this truck? It's always nice to be able to disconnect the motor from esc if it's not a big difference otherwise.
The bullet style connectors are pretty darn efficient. That said, it's still 2 additional solder joints over just hard wiring the motor, and the shorter the wires and the fewer the connections, the less resitance. I like my motors hard wired, 35 seconds to heat an iron and another 10 or so to take 3 wires off. Not much longer than pulling bullet connectors apart LOL. As good as teh batteries and motors and connectors are now it probably doesn't make that much difference anymore, but I'll take every little mechanical edge I can get.