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Old 05-12-2011 | 06:44 PM
  #676  
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Originally Posted by jjlove
Well I replaced my servo since I blew the plastic gears in my 1st one. It was not all that bad and if I had to do it again I would say I could do it in around 30 minutes. You have to remove the clicker cover and clicker, remove the 4 screws holding the front of the chassis to the center. Remove the screw holding the top front of the chassis to the diff. Remove the 2 other screws holding the back side of the clicker plate from the diff. Remove the 2 balls that attach the steering links to the servo saver. And remove the single screw from the bottom of the chassis. If you routed the servo wire thru the chassis, then you have to remove the remaining screws holding the front of the chassis to the center.

I installed a Savox 1258tg and the wire was plenty long enough. 1st race tomorrow night. Cant wait.

I just pulled mine down to see how bad it would be to get to the servo.

I pulled all 4 bolts that hold the front upper plate to the chassis.
Then removed the center belt covers, front clicker/belt cover.
I then removed the clicker assy and took all three tranny bolts out that hold that inner belt cover and slid it off. Lastly I unscrewed the steering ball from the bell crank and I had the servo/top plate assy in my hand. It took 10 minutes with a power driver.

While I was that far I also wanted to see how long/what it would take to get to the diff. At this point I took the upper two bumper bolts out at the bulkhead and loosened the third right in front of them. I flipped it over and removed the single bolt out of the bottom and slid the bumper assy off. I then removed the two tranny bolts out while upside down. Then flipped it back over and took all four shock tower bolts out and loosened the camber link balls half way out. The tranny was in my hand and within 5 seconds after that the diff was. This took 6-7 minutes.

So now that I have done it I'm sure it will take 13-14minutes to remove the diff and another such time to re-install it.

(I also want to note that when re-installing the belt/pulley; wrap the belt back over the pulley pull it to the shaft then rest the back bumper against your stomach while grabbing the front bumper then pull to flex the chassis enough to easily slide the pully and belt back into place.
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Old 05-12-2011 | 06:46 PM
  #677  
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Originally Posted by mjgarw
Need a servo recommendation

Running Castle Sidewinder SCT, 2C Lipo

I picked up a Hitec HS-625MG. Is this a decent choice? I don't want to spend a ton on a servo but don't want to be upgrading in a month either. Can all servos be plugged direct to receiver or do they need to be high voltage?

Sorry for dumb questions but last car I built was in 1995, lol.

Thanks.
XP Ds1313
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Old 05-12-2011 | 06:54 PM
  #678  
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Premier Hobbies has some fast shipping! Thanks!!!
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:02 PM
  #679  
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They do?

I'm STILL waiting for mine..
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:04 PM
  #680  
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Havent gotta run it yet but here is my setup

rx8
sc4x 4.5
xp 1313

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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:21 PM
  #681  
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
same with me... the slower higher torque hobbypartz is excellent while the faster one is junk... someone suggested to remove the top casing o ring and that makes it much better but probably messes up the weatherproofing.
Actually my fast one works great, my torquey one is junk.

I think they have the same exact motor, just different gearing.

So I'm going to chalk it up to poor quality control and maybe try a 3rd one. This one just feels chunky while rotating it, even after cleaning the gears up and rebuilding it and removing oring. It's as if it is trying to find center and just vibrates like crazy. Not noticeable with wheels on the ground though, and car drove fine. But the servo shaking like that will probably eat the gears quickly.
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:38 PM
  #682  
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I maidened the sc10 4x4 last night and am in love with it. I am a 2wd driver, this is my first ever 4wd and it is sweet.

i used a velinion system and it worked, hardly any brakes as mentioned before, the ESC got hot but didnt thermal after running the b main then bumping and running the amain (2x5min back to back).

The only pinion i had lying around was a 26t 48p! and it fitted with the supplied 93t spur. So i was over geared also.

Will sort out proper Electronics this week and start some tuning from the box stock setup.

I found the car to spin or slide out a bit to easily, i was running clicker fairly loose.

My first things i will do to tune it are.
Fit 1.3 Pistons to rear
Fit provided shock spacers to lower it a bit more (24mm maybe)
Play with clicker and belt settings to find the best setting
Trial rear tyres - caliber vs bar codes (track owner says bar codes i say calibers, but we will test back to back for our track)

All in all im happy as, lots of fun tuning this beast into a weapon, the potential is there, even the losi driver was convinced and wants an AE after seeing it and having a run with it.

Here are some morning after race pics



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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:44 PM
  #683  
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If u like calibers try hole shots. I'm leaning more to hole shots now and I only ran calibers before
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:46 PM
  #684  
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Originally Posted by ktm11rider
Havent gotta run it yet but here is my setup

rx8
sc4x 4.5
xp 1313

Looks really good!
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:47 PM
  #685  
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Default Bladder vs. Emulsion

What are the benefits of using a bladder in the shocks vs. no bladder?

The kit shocks were prebuilt with the bladder, yet in the videos the guy doesn't use the bladder.
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:49 PM
  #686  
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Thanks Jstall.

So let me get this clear im sure its been covered but i dont wanna read every page. I am going to order some wheels and tires for this thing. The proline protrac and the new jconcepts wheels have the right offset for this truck???? I also heard the losi wheels fit but i will probally go with proline.
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:54 PM
  #687  
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Did anyones kit come with diff lube, thread lock or anything besides just the black grease you don't need?
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:57 PM
  #688  
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Originally Posted by ntrain42
Man, I really gotta ask here: What do you consider a "low end" Hitec servo?

Plus I have never heard of a 9455TG model?????? A 945MG sure, but I dont think those are even made anymore.

All Hitec digital servos should center properly if of sufficient performance specs for the application on hand. If it doesnt, then its defective and needs to be returned, or its not powerful enough for the job at hand and should be upgraded accordingly.

For steering application if your servo cannot center itself properly at a standstill or struggles to do so then you need a stronger spec'd steering servo.
Sorry 7955TG is what I ment,heres a link to it just in case you haven't
heard of it...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Digital-Servo
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:58 PM
  #689  
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Originally Posted by VegasHB
Did anyones kit come with diff lube, thread lock or anything besides just the black grease you don't need?
Can't say that anyones has, I know mine didn't and I've read this whole thread since it first started and no-ones ever mentioned it so I doubt any kit came with diff lube or thread lock......... And as far as the black grease I def. needed it
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Old 05-12-2011 | 07:58 PM
  #690  
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So I am trying a 540 set up with a RS pro. I left out the removable tray and most of the rear bumper to make it as light as possible. Ready to run I am at 90.5 oz. So that gave me a different problem. Now that am running with the lighter radio gear I had to add 1.5oz. of weight way out on the left nerf bar to balance the chassis weight out (back to 92oz.). Seems using an RX8 speed control and the 550 motor would be the way to go to get the best power and balance.
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