Not if theyre loose enough to let them rotate and still keep them in place.

@jstall:

are the bars supposed to move side to side completely or are they supposed to be anchored in the middle? I know sway bard prevent traction rolling at high speeds but most kits i have even the scte have the sway bars bolted down on the middle portion with small grub screws..??? i just assumed that they needed to be anchored down in the middle somehow but IDK...they do move side to side still as well as up and down...

Dude !

Lrp V2 with the fan !!!!!
No heat issues......


I'm using the Novak 5.5 550 , awesome smooth, comes in at 130 degree....
( not too fast for TRCR, maybe a 6.5 for Portland R/c )

Tip
Don't brother trying the 13t as in the manual, go 15T ....

My Novak is bringing me great top end and plenty of power for the jumps....



Set-up

5m washer under ft camber stud & outside on the stud mount on tower.
30W ft
25W R

5000 in both diff

rest of box set-up...


Drives so good I don't what to change it ...
So
Don't worry bout the Bars , I don't want um or need...

Got to stay true to my motor guy, Murfdogg all the way. He will have a 550 out soon.

I'm picking up a fan tomorrow to have just in case.

Fan GOOOD

540 should be even quieter (48p), just wanted you to know the power of these new 550 motors are not so scary fast or what ever.

Very happy with this ride...

First impressions


Drives like the 2w
just that it has a bit more traction & steering , the 4w pulls smart out of the turns ...

Jumps great, a real good flyer ...

It sure is quite like every one says...

Did you figure out something to do about sway bars?

I like how my truck is with no sway bars. Might buy just so I have em if I ever need them

Just feel the bars are a bit over rated perhapes ?

The truck corners great,steers remarkably well.

Worried it traction rolls easy ? Not really ,takes the sweeper about as fast as my B4 can....

The sway bars will be much more appealing to the guys running tight indoor tracks than the outdoor guys.

Ya, anchored in the middle is correct, I saw a guy on here that used u shaped clamp's in the two holes on top. There is a pic somewhere in one of the sc10 4x4 threads. I believe he used piano wire.

If the bar is working you should be able to lift one wheel and the other side should attempt to move or move alot depending on bar thickness and tension. Side to side movement is ok as long as the twist of the bar isn't prevented. As in your case I think twist might be limited. Test it out and see if you like it. If it works good then I'm probably wrong!

Just finished up my sway bars. TC3 upper ends (where bar goes into) and Traxxas rod ends that go into a-arm. Trim .075 to .100 off rear Traxxas ball ends to shorten the length to clear camber link better.
I tossed a Traxxas Titan 550 in it and ran it for 1hr on a stand to break it in. Taking it out for the 1st time later today. Tekin 4.5 and LRP TC Spec. Starting at a 13t pinion, some shock oil changes, and diff fluid changes. I made a few passes down the street and then ran in deep gress for 3-4 min and the motor was prob 105 deg.

I mounted up a set on these as well. Look to have almost identical offset. Did notice that the stock nyloc wheel nuts don't actually grab the nylon with these wheels, so be careful.

Cheers

the swaybars do have to have some movement.
If you lockup your swaybars at the chassis completly, then the swaybars will not work properly

The effectiveness of the sway bar you run depend also on the weight of spring you run.
With the sway bar tying both the left and right side together, the sway bar must overcome the weight of the spring on the opposite side as one side compresses.

A softer front bar:
1. Increases front chassis roll.
2. Increases front grip or traction, while decreasing rear grip or traction.
3. Slower steering response.
4. Increases off-power steering at corner entry.


A stiffer front bar:
1. Decreases front chassis roll.
2. Decreases front grip or traction, while increasing rear grip or traction.
3. Faster steering response.
4. Decreases off-power steering at corner entry.


A softer rear bar:
1. Increases rear chassis roll
2. Increases rear grip or traction, while decreasing front grip or traction.
3. Less on-power steering.


A stiffer rear bar:
1. Decreases rear chassis roll.
2. Decreases rear traction, while increasing front grip or traction.
3. Faster steering response in high speed corners and chicanes.
4. Increases on-power steering.

Finished the sc10 and drove it at the track last week and loved it. The kit went together very easily and I had no missing parts. Just for your info guys, I suggest taking all 4 shocks apart because including myself, 3 people had a problem with the screw coming off the top of the shock shaft that holds the piston on. It came off on one of my shocks so I checke them all and they were loose. Nothing a lil loctite can't fix. Went 27.5 in the rear and 32.5 in the front... Perfect