RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Had the same issues with the stock ball Cups from AE, don't know what they changes, but they're not as good as they used to be. IMO. I've seen the JC ones used, the RPM's, and if you can find them the old white Losi XXX Ball Cups. All are better than the stock ones.
If the Ball Cup keeps popping off when trying to adjust the rod, try putting a little greese on the threads when you first put the cup on the rods, seems to help with that issue.
If the Ball Cup keeps popping off when trying to adjust the rod, try putting a little greese on the threads when you first put the cup on the rods, seems to help with that issue.
the jcs do not work for me for what ever reason. ordered the 4-40 for the upcoming weekend.
will try the black grease thing.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...hread-806.html
Tra3768
I remember the age old discussion on shock oils and viscosity differences/consistency between brands (for this question im referring to AE/LOSI)... BUT.
I got some laps in today and my only change was going from Losi 30wt F/R to 50/50 mixed AE (new bottle style) 25/30 F/R.
The difference was night and day... and my mixed "27.5" felt like a$$ on the track. Legit 27.5 wasnt available, so i decided to mix it up and wasnt pleased. Was the big difference in brand change... or that i shouldnt have mixed the two AE oils?
I got some laps in today and my only change was going from Losi 30wt F/R to 50/50 mixed AE (new bottle style) 25/30 F/R.
The difference was night and day... and my mixed "27.5" felt like a$$ on the track. Legit 27.5 wasnt available, so i decided to mix it up and wasnt pleased. Was the big difference in brand change... or that i shouldnt have mixed the two AE oils?
Yah me too... but this was what was available locally, so i dunno if Losi 27.5 would have been the expected change... or if mixing the AE oils for 27.5 was the issue.
Compared to Losi 30... it felt like i had water in the shocks...
Compared to Losi 30... it felt like i had water in the shocks...
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It's been like that for as long as I can remember. All of the ae future releases will be fully metric though.

They aren't prone to breaking either and I run them with an Aluminum bulkhead. The weak link for me is now the turnbuckles or the the C hub. With the aluminum sterring rack, aluminum bulkhead and hex adapters in place nothing gives so when I crash HARD I either pop a ball cup or I snap the C hub clean in half.
Solution? Don't hit pipes
No I wouldn't call them any stronger. It's more of a tuning option. They are more rigid so I feel they are more responsive. With the carbon front arms and the Avid steering rack the steering on my car just feels so connected to the track. If there is traction I'm always amazed how hard I can push this car for a 2whl. 
They aren't prone to breaking either and I run them with an Aluminum bulkhead. The weak link for me is now the turnbuckles or the the C hub. With the aluminum sterring rack, aluminum bulkhead and hex adapters in place nothing gives so when I crash HARD I either pop a ball cup or I snap the C hub clean in half.
Solution? Don't hit pipes

They aren't prone to breaking either and I run them with an Aluminum bulkhead. The weak link for me is now the turnbuckles or the the C hub. With the aluminum sterring rack, aluminum bulkhead and hex adapters in place nothing gives so when I crash HARD I either pop a ball cup or I snap the C hub clean in half.
Solution? Don't hit pipes

Not stronger at all...they have a lot less flex than the stock plastic will also make it more prone to breaking...only use carbon arms on high bite tracks and plastic for anything but very high traction
Hey guys, i was looking at buying the Associated ball diff for the b4.1. What are the pros and cons of it, and should i buy it? I run at OCRC Raceway, i think it has a dirt/clay mixture, pretty good grip.



