JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

There is a difference if you do not shim hubs back to original location…

The biggest difference with the 3.0 block and 0 hub vs. the 2.5 block and .5 hub is the position of the hub in relationship to the outdrives.... The 3.0 and 0 hub setup creates more down angle drive with the driveline which pulls the rear end down under acceleration more than the 2.5 with .5 hub (Unless hub is shimmed in exact same location as 3.0/0.0 setup)

It seems like a small change but driveline angle is a huge tuning factor most don't take into consideration. With the 3.0 and 0 setup the rear hubs are moved forward a little in comparison to other setup. This is what changes the driveline angle creating a larger down pull on the chassis under acceleration.

This is the same effect you get when you in general move your hubs forward and is usually a combination of weight transfer change as well as driveline bind change. More often the driveline bind change is actually what creates the increased rear drive under acceleration more than the weight transfer change by moving hubs forward or back.

Wild Cherry

Jfuel


Down angle ..

More please


Thinking you referring to the angle of dogbone s moving forward or back of the out drive cups ..

been told

more bind in CVA = more forward traction

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

Not sure if i would argue with this guy. He is one of the fast ones and knows his stuff, even if i did see him messing with a Durango. His wins at the Cactus speak for themselves.

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

I had to read this two or three times today, and was like "Huh" but I get it now.

The angle of the inner hinge pin makes a huge difference in how the chassis rolls from left to right. The total toe remains the same, but you are making a totally different change.

Even in my ancient VTA sedan changing hinge pin sweep makes an enormous difference.

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

Decided to play with a new rear tire and front toe setup last night, and the car was on rails! Picked up 2 laps.

Super soft Panther Switches out back, and about 0* toe up front. I was running ~-1*, but the turn in was fierce to say the least. Even with the more aggressive setup I was on a qualifying pace 2 laps over my normal.

Great night!

B00t13g

iTrader: (9)

Come on USPS! Deliver my avid hex conversion and ghea collars!

microrcdude

iTrader: (70)

Finally got my worlds built and drove it Tuesday. Didn't get to race with it as my GF was using my radio, but she ended up breaking her buggy and driving mine.

I am really impressed with it, it's a great car to drive. Coming from the Kyosho, I feel like I can "feel" what the car is doing much easier, and it's predictable too.

The Avid steering rack makes a HUGE difference. Should of not even wasted my time building the kit with the stock rack.

JakeC351

iTrader: (8)

+1 the avid rack makes a night and day difference

Aoh

iTrader: (16)

Question for Associated boys,

can we get Hartson's Stock Nationals setup?

sinister129

What is differant that you noticed when you switched to the Avid bellcranks? Just curious cause im thinking of getting it for my b4.1 as well.

Chad Smith

Most importantly there is less slop in the steering rack, it also makes steering more responsive and you actually gain a little extra steering in my experiance. You wont be disapointed well worth the money!

idrummerboy13

iTrader: (15)

i just ordered the steering rack and hex set

i don't like the proline hexes or jc they both feel and look cheazy...stock works right now.

Woulvesbaine

iTrader: (12)

Currently driving an SP2. How would you compare the cars (assuming this is what you just came from)?

More steering/less push from the associated? Smoother bump absorption? etc?

microrcdude

iTrader: (70)

Steering felt a lot more responsive and precise. Zero slop and the feel was super consisent. Happy to say that the money I spent was absolutely worth it, I ordered 3 more to try in my trucks as well.

I had an SP2 with big bores, and I like the feel of the associated better. I can just feel the car a lot better, the SP2 felt rather numb and was hard for me to get feedback on what needed to be changed with the car's set-up.

There is a bit more chassis slap if you over-shoot jumps, but at least the car lets you know you shouldnt be doing that. I am using ghea pistons and collars, with Kyosho big bore springs on my B4. Love the feel of it, had a smile on my face each time the car hit the track!

sinister129

Awesome!! Gonna place my order for them tonight then. Thanks!