aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

Yea you can. U won't need the rebuild kit, just buy the orings by themselves. Instead get the blessed shock caps and you'll be good.

SoccerSting

Hey good point!! Thanks a lot!!!! That saves me $7. Two questions. You mean bleeder shock caps? What are the very small washers for that come with the shock bodies?

rifraf

iTrader: (41)

Need help! I am trying to upgrade my T-4 to a T-4.1 and I am having trouble finding the parts that I need to make a t-4.1..I know,I must be a retard on the search engine....could someone please help out..Thanks,

T4BongMan420

not important but....i am siked an i have to share this, i decided i didnt want to modfy the body of the f-150 so i just repositioned the mounts by drilling some new holes for the 4-40's to go through.

Wild Cherry

Wild in Da House


New JConcepts 8m "Finnisher" sporting some new "Icy Whities"....

B.A. Racer

iTrader: (10)

i really like that pink!

bdyche

iTrader: (5)

Looking good. Glad I'm not the only one running pink!

"Operation Pinkie Pie"


Obviously those aren't race tires...

Wild Cherry

Thank You


Pactra Rc277 Fluorescent red & backed with Rc290 Fluorescent overcoat....


spray one or two very, very light coats,then the overcoat

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

Sorry, this is a RTR drivetrain. I run a gear diff with 7k fluid filled.



I will get straight to the point. Tried the Cavaleri setups. Tried em all. Not my driving style and doesn't work for me. Box stock does. I am still a little unstable and still spin out a little in the corners. Do limiters on the bottom of the shock piston really help with this? After a year and a half of trying to figure this car out and train my driving to work on other setups, box stock worked best. I just can't remember if I have the correct amount of spacers in the shocks. I am running losi 30wt front, 27.5 in rear. Blue springs in front and greens in rear. Have my radio setup so that I don't really spinout/burnout upon punching it and steering servo speed has been dialed out a little to keep it from being twitchy in this beginners hands. Any help is appreciated.

My next step was to buy the TQ Big Bores. They worked incredibly on my b4.1. Super smooth!! But 90 bucks for a set with shipping. Would rather try a cheap fix first. Also, just bought the bleeder caps for my shocks as they were RTR shocks. So rebuilding them is next but just waiting for some insight and wisdom please. Thanks, Vinny

AzRon

Either in the manual or the setup sheet that came with your kit should have the number of spacers for the shocks, hope this helps.

vinny73

iTrader: (24)

No help at all. I have the manual. I know the amount of spacers. Am asking if the use of the spacers will help with my traction problem

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

in my buggy when i removed some limiters from the front shocks it helped my problem with swapping ends at the end of straights, what is happening i believe is that too much weight is being transfered to the front and makes it want to swap ends.

the other question i have is where the battery is mounted in your truck. i like 1 foam in the front and 2 in the rear.

i run inside/inside on the front and run 5 spacers inside the shocks.

the other thing to check is your wheel bearings, if they are binding it can cause the same issue.

YankeeFan123

iTrader: (72)

it will cost some but try a ball diff, 10000000 times better than a gear diff IMO, $.02

Ryno B4.1

iTrader: (4)

Cherry, do the cab forward bodies really help the handling?

Joey98

iTrader: (6)

yes they do. A cab forward body will usually give you more steering. If steering is what you are looking for then check out ftwrc.com and take a look at their b4.1 body. It will dramatically increase your steering.