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Old 02-22-2012 | 08:12 PM
  #11836  
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Oh and dont forget you can always pick up the Works rotor if you want more TQ... or is that restricted in blinky?
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Old 02-22-2012 | 08:12 PM
  #11837  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
If you are doing it right, it's gonna run hot LOL.

max endbell timing would actually be to take the 4 dot and put it in with the dot's facing inboard, or backwards if you will. That will bump your timing to max.

I would NOT run that much timing though if you do put boost in. Put 36/72 on for gearing. First time out, run 2 laps, check temp, run 4 laps, check temp. Then run 2-3 min and check temp. as long as you are in that 140-150 deg range, you are good. If you are too hot, go down 1 tooth and repeat

Don't just slap the pinion on and run 10 minutes before checking. Check a few times early on so that you make sure that you dont have something wrong, and then once you feel that everything is fine, check after 5 min.

Just remember that just because your battery will last 20 min now, you don't want to be out there for 20 minutes. You'll overheat the motor.
thanks bob,ya no esc boost for me just end bell timing,just wanna make sure i had it in the right way.Ya i know lrp runs a little warm but if you get that sweet spot i heard there rockets.
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Old 02-22-2012 | 08:20 PM
  #11838  
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oh yea,i run at west coast(reedy track)you guys like the two or three hole caster blocks up front?
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Old 02-22-2012 | 08:44 PM
  #11839  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
Just to give you an idea, my buddy Chris was there and had the same 8.5 Reedy Sonic with stock timing and his car was insanely fast. He just couldn't translate that speed into fast lap times. And I believe Reedy 8.5 is what Mike Gay runs in his B4.1 because he helped me with gearing mine up at bumps.
I couldn't translate a silver can into fast lap times.

I did learn a lot this weekend tho.
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Old 02-22-2012 | 10:02 PM
  #11840  
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since were arguing about motors, where does fantom and revtech sit with the lrp and reedy. Im running a tekin and I kind of want to get away from them
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Old 02-22-2012 | 10:03 PM
  #11841  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
oh yea,i run at west coast(reedy track)you guys like the two or three hole caster blocks up front?

perform the same cept the 3 hole axle height is .030 higher than the 2 hole...
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Old 02-22-2012 | 10:34 PM
  #11842  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
perform the same cept the 3 hole axle height is .030 higher than the 2 hole...
I don't think it is...I remember checking this a while back. The main difference is the 2 hole blocks are factory team and stiffer(carbon?) but they both can break
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Old 02-22-2012 | 11:09 PM
  #11843  
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Originally Posted by Just1More
I don't think it is...I remember checking this a while back. The main difference is the 2 hole blocks are factory team and stiffer(carbon?) but they both can break

most think they are same , trucks out doors need smoother steering thus the axle is .030 higher on the 3 hole


3 hole is a GT-2 gas truck block ....

2 hole is a B4 block


the carbon block is not used so much for its stiffness, rather the carbon block wears longer & fits tighter ...
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Old 02-22-2012 | 11:59 PM
  #11844  
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Originally Posted by jimmer411
Let's hope it's more durable than the b4
? all ive ever broken on my b4 are the front c hubs (knock on wood), and ive done some stupid stuff!
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Old 02-23-2012 | 03:55 AM
  #11845  
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Hi guys, long time reader, first time poster here.
I have some confusion about some RPM parts.
Does anybody know what is the difference between RPM80232 and RPM70722?
They look all most same, witch works better?
Also, do i need regular heavy duty or long shank rod ends?
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Old 02-23-2012 | 04:02 AM
  #11846  
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Originally Posted by Marten
Hi guys, long time reader, first time poster here.
I have some confusion about some RPM parts.
Does anybody know what is the difference between RPM80232 and RPM70722?
They look all most same, witch works better?
Also, do i need regular heavy duty or long shank rod ends?
You want the 80232. It fits the B4, T4, and GT2. The 70722 is for the older T2, and GT platform.
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Old 02-23-2012 | 04:34 AM
  #11847  
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if you want to test the strength of the caster blocks, let a rookie drive your car

Last edited by dominick i.; 02-23-2012 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 02-23-2012 | 04:45 AM
  #11848  
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Default 1258tg correct horn and spacer for B4.1

I asked this over on the electronics forum, don't think I got an answer... For the Savox 1258tg, it looks like you use a F (Futaba-type 25-tooth) horn.. but what spacer? Thick, thin, or none? This is for the standard B4.1 RTR with stock servo saver.

Thanks!
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Old 02-23-2012 | 05:08 AM
  #11849  
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Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague
You want the 80232. It fits the B4, T4, and GT2. The 70722 is for the older T2, and GT platform.
Damn, i`m stupid, how did i miss this in description.

Originally Posted by Marten
Do i need regular heavy duty or long shank rod ends?
Can please someone answer this one too.


On another note: has somebody used RcScrewz metric screw kit?
Any need for recutting the threads in metal parts? Are you happy with it?

Also, when i raced T4 some years ago i used to brake rear chassis plate real often.
I`m getting back to offroad and 2wd , have worlds editon on the way and wanted to know if this part has been improved?
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Old 02-23-2012 | 08:55 AM
  #11850  
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What you looking at Willis ..
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