RC10B4.1 FT/WC
If you are doing it right, it's gonna run hot LOL.
max endbell timing would actually be to take the 4 dot and put it in with the dot's facing inboard, or backwards if you will. That will bump your timing to max.
I would NOT run that much timing though if you do put boost in. Put 36/72 on for gearing. First time out, run 2 laps, check temp, run 4 laps, check temp. Then run 2-3 min and check temp. as long as you are in that 140-150 deg range, you are good. If you are too hot, go down 1 tooth and repeat
Don't just slap the pinion on and run 10 minutes before checking. Check a few times early on so that you make sure that you dont have something wrong, and then once you feel that everything is fine, check after 5 min.
Just remember that just because your battery will last 20 min now, you don't want to be out there for 20 minutes. You'll overheat the motor.
max endbell timing would actually be to take the 4 dot and put it in with the dot's facing inboard, or backwards if you will. That will bump your timing to max.
I would NOT run that much timing though if you do put boost in. Put 36/72 on for gearing. First time out, run 2 laps, check temp, run 4 laps, check temp. Then run 2-3 min and check temp. as long as you are in that 140-150 deg range, you are good. If you are too hot, go down 1 tooth and repeat
Don't just slap the pinion on and run 10 minutes before checking. Check a few times early on so that you make sure that you dont have something wrong, and then once you feel that everything is fine, check after 5 min.
Just remember that just because your battery will last 20 min now, you don't want to be out there for 20 minutes. You'll overheat the motor.
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,301
From: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
Just to give you an idea, my buddy Chris was there and had the same 8.5 Reedy Sonic with stock timing and his car was insanely fast. He just couldn't translate that speed into fast lap times. And I believe Reedy 8.5 is what Mike Gay runs in his B4.1 because he helped me with gearing mine up at bumps.

I did learn a lot this weekend tho.
most think they are same , trucks out doors need smoother steering thus the axle is .030 higher on the 3 hole
3 hole is a GT-2 gas truck block ....

2 hole is a B4 block
the carbon block is not used so much for its stiffness, rather the carbon block wears longer & fits tighter ...
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 35
From: Estonia
Hi guys, long time reader, first time poster here.
I have some confusion about some RPM parts.
Does anybody know what is the difference between RPM80232 and RPM70722?
They look all most same, witch works better?
Also, do i need regular heavy duty or long shank rod ends?
I have some confusion about some RPM parts.
Does anybody know what is the difference between RPM80232 and RPM70722?
They look all most same, witch works better?
Also, do i need regular heavy duty or long shank rod ends?
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,301
From: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
You want the 80232. It fits the B4, T4, and GT2. The 70722 is for the older T2, and GT platform.
I asked this over on the electronics forum, don't think I got an answer... For the Savox 1258tg, it looks like you use a F (Futaba-type 25-tooth) horn.. but what spacer? Thick, thin, or none? This is for the standard B4.1 RTR with stock servo saver.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 35
From: Estonia
Can please someone answer this one too.
On another note: has somebody used RcScrewz metric screw kit?
Any need for recutting the threads in metal parts? Are you happy with it?
Also, when i raced T4 some years ago i used to brake rear chassis plate real often.
I`m getting back to offroad and 2wd , have worlds editon on the way and wanted to know if this part has been improved?



