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Old 04-07-2012 | 04:38 PM
  #13486  
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try adjusting the gear mesh to where there is a TINY bit of play but still has about 95% of the tooth in between.
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Old 04-07-2012 | 05:20 PM
  #13487  
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Default Reedy set ups

On the Reedy set up sheets it mentions

"rear u brace" and "carbon u brace" Are these separate parts? What are the part numbers.

Also the "aluminum steering" is that the avid upgrade all are doing?

Thanks.
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Old 04-07-2012 | 05:27 PM
  #13488  
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What is the purpose of converting the front .1 wheels to hex?
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Old 04-07-2012 | 05:58 PM
  #13489  
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Originally Posted by mHOUPS
What is the purpose of converting the front .1 wheels to hex?
I've wondered the same thing. I understand the purpose for 4WD or SC trucks and the bigger 1/8th stuff but I can't see any advantage to using a hex for a 2WD buggy front.
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Old 04-07-2012 | 05:59 PM
  #13490  
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9564 is standard and 9565 is carbon brace. Aluminum steering would be Avid bellcranks that they used.

You do not have to worry about bearings in the rims with the hexes.
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Old 04-07-2012 | 06:38 PM
  #13491  
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Originally Posted by sneako
I've wondered the same thing. I understand the purpose for 4WD or SC trucks and the bigger 1/8th stuff but I can't see any advantage to using a hex for a 2WD buggy front.
The two resounding pluses that were explained to me are as follows:

1. Increased flexibility with other makes/brands of front wheels when using the 12mm Hex (and the "suggestion" that this will indeed become a standard for all buggies in the future, but that is obviously debatable).

2. If you are changing front tires frequently, it eliminates the need to remove the bearing from the wheels each time (removing them eventually wears the bearing carriers in the front wheels), or prevents you from needing multiple sets of front bearings for multiple front wheels.

I too asked the same questions. I switched to the JConcepts Hex pieces; they are nice and do their job just fine.

Regards,
Joe
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Old 04-07-2012 | 06:39 PM
  #13492  
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I know it has been asked before but I want to ask it again.

Is the longer chassis gonna make this thing a lot easier to drive?

I drove on a outdoor track that was a little loose and this thing was a handful to drive. I kept having to loosen the slipper, take off e.p.a. on the transmitter, etc to keep it from spinning the tires and getting all squirrely. I really want the stability.

Everybody and their mother is going to 22's around here.
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Old 04-07-2012 | 06:45 PM
  #13493  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
I know it has been asked before but I want to ask it again.

Is the longer chassis gonna make this thing a lot easier to drive?

I drove on a outdoor track that was a little loose and this thing was a handful to drive. I kept having to loosen the slipper, take off e.p.a. on the transmitter, etc to keep it from spinning the tires and getting all squirrely. I really want the stability.

Everybody and their mother is going to 22's around here.
The +8 chassis will make a bigger difference on an outdoor track than indoor for the most part
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Old 04-07-2012 | 06:57 PM
  #13494  
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OK that's what I'm thinking.

Is there any major difference between the 4.1 and the WC? (besides the longer chassis?)
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Old 04-07-2012 | 07:52 PM
  #13495  
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Longer chassis and battery strap
Ballast weight
0 degree rear hub
Pro Line Bulldog +8 body
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Old 04-07-2012 | 08:26 PM
  #13496  
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Originally Posted by jbrooks39
The two resounding pluses that were explained to me are as follows:

1. Increased flexibility with other makes/brands of front wheels when using the 12mm Hex (and the "suggestion" that this will indeed become a standard for all buggies in the future, but that is obviously debatable).

2. If you are changing front tires frequently, it eliminates the need to remove the bearing from the wheels each time (removing them eventually wears the bearing carriers in the front wheels), or prevents you from needing multiple sets of front bearings for multiple front wheels.

I too asked the same questions. I switched to the JConcepts Hex pieces; they are nice and do their job just fine.

Regards,
Joe
Ok, so nothing "major"..Thanks for the info man, I appreciate it.

Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
I know it has been asked before but I want to ask it again.

Is the longer chassis gonna make this thing a lot easier to drive?

I drove on a outdoor track that was a little loose and this thing was a handful to drive. I kept having to loosen the slipper, take off e.p.a. on the transmitter, etc to keep it from spinning the tires and getting all squirrely. I really want the stability.

Everybody and their mother is going to 22's around here.
If you want to save a couple of bucks, make the car super easy to drive....put a T4.1 chassis on it AND it legal, the car will fit in the "box" and make weight.

BTW - what is your setup?
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Old 04-07-2012 | 09:53 PM
  #13497  
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Hi All,
Buggy noob so I'm going to ask the stupid question. I built my Worlds car and noticed there is alot of play in the wing. I have the shim under the wing on the mount so that the skinny end is forward but with that much play, the wing seels nearly useless. I know you want a little play so that it doesnt rip to shreds on the first rollover but mine is rediculously loose. Any input is appreciated.

KEvin
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Old 04-07-2012 | 11:26 PM
  #13498  
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If you want to save a couple of bucks, make the car super easy to drive....put a T4.1 chassis on it AND it legal, the car will fit in the "box" and make weight.

The t4 chassis does make it alot easier to drive but have you actually measured it? I measured mine and it is 4mm over max roar length.
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Old 04-08-2012 | 12:17 AM
  #13499  
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i got the avid bell crank and i was wondering what size bearings i need for it and i have a rtr so i cant just use those stock bearings
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Old 04-08-2012 | 12:28 AM
  #13500  
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Originally Posted by chancejeff
i got the avid bell crank and i was wondering what size bearings i need for it and i have a rtr so i cant just use those stock bearings
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...ng-Rack/Detail
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