Mine does the same thing.

yes. If you leave them out, then the bulkhead AND arm will slop. If you put them in, just the arms slop out. same reason you add them to the rear hubs (which I still didn't do )

You guys should both post your setups on the site here. It would be easier for us to pick out what might be wrong. It could be a lot of different things. When it comes to hooking under braking, you might just be able to add additional limiters to the rear shocks to reduce the amount of weight transfer to the front under braking. Similar could be said about the push coming out of the turn. If you add limiters in the front you can reduce the amount of weight transfer to the rear when accelerating. Push can also be dealt with by caster adjustment (lower caster number will give you more exit steering), axle height (raising front axle will give you more exit steering), roll center, spring rate, etc, etc, etc. It might be that you both have your diffs set a bit too tight as well. No need to rehash how to set a diff here. There are tons of vids and such on the web that would do a better job of describing how to do that than I could here. Hope this helps. Hit any of us up if you need more help.

As BDS has said,sounds like to much rear droop to me...

FRONT:

Ride height: 24mm
Oil:35
Spring: BB TLR silver
Camber:0
toe:0

REAR:


Ride Height: 24mm
Oil:30
Spring: BB TLR Yellow
Camber: -1
toe -3 (using blocks)

I run no weight besides the ballast weight, it's a +8 chassis, only problem is i'm using RTR shocks (for the meantime while I wait for my V2's)

I run at Leisure too, and after talking to some of the guys they told me to turn down the braking on the radio, because not this last layout, but the previous, I need to use brake before that stepup in the sweeper, so I just reduced far enough that I can keep the rear end straight and still control pitch while in air. What front tires are you running

You posted 1/3 of a setup.

you need to include pistons, limiters, mounting positions, what caster, antisquat, toe in (inner and outer),wheelbase, tires, foams, surface,

in fact, here... it's editable LOL
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...208%202011.pdf

Check all your cambers/toe while the car is powered up so that the servo holds the wheels. Then check them several times turning the wheels so that it accounts for slop/wheel wobble. Then use a pair of calipers the measure turnbuckle length, comparing each side. Then make them equal.

What have some of you found to solve a noisy transmission? I have replaced everything but the main shaft and it really looks great still! I highly doubt that is the issue!!!! I have been running Kyosho for 4 years and Associated for one. Have never used lube in the transmission and am wondering if it is used in AE transmissions to quiet them down or if it is simply a tad noisy?

See, thats the weird thing. My braking on the remote is set wayyyyyy low. At LHR I run scrubs.

I am looking to upgrade radios. I currently have a M11 with 2.4 airtronics setup. I love the radio but I want to try something else. What r u guys using and what do u suggest. Thanks

Not really the right thread for this. That being said I assume you already have Airtronics receivers so staying with that would be the cheapest way to go. The MT-4 is an excellent radio. It has most of the features of the M11x but its alot smaller. Then theres the M11x which I believe is pretty close to what your using now. What is the reason for dropping the M11?

Wheelman - how noisy is it? there is going to be some noise from contact the gears have - I just built a new tranny for my SC10 and it has some noise, but as long as its smooth and spins free -- that's the important part (my opinion). I have built AE transmissions on and off for almost 20 years and never used lube on the gears.

njnewc - Futaba 4PKS!!

3 drops of 50wt shock oil or any shock oil that is not to light really

Same here. I think I'm going to get M11x.