RC10B4.1 FT/WC

Everyone replaces wires from the board, get a good iron that can get over 700dg with a good tip (not a pencil style), tin the iron and touch the solder joint and it should release very quickly. If you have to leave the iron on it for a more than a few seconds, stop, let it cool, then try again.
Starting to do some experimenting with foams. Are Open Cells still the go to foam for bumpy tracks? Also when do you call the track bumpy? Our track is hard packed clay with some small maybe 1-2" rutting sporadically throughout. The link to our track is in my signature.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
just use the aluminum ball stud washers. I forget my exact setup but I think it was like 1 2mm blue washer and 1 .030 silver and that took out all the slop. I'll try to remember to look for you tonight and snap a pic of it.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
I only use closed cell in the rear but I'm switching back to open cell fronts. Closed cell fronts make my car steer like it's got an eight foot plow on it.
That's been my experience to. I run opens in the front and I usually trim the inner and outer edges a little bit.
Last layout I tried open cell stock vs proline v2 vs aka red. All were in green dd's mounted on rulux wheels. Neither of the closed cells worked at all. I tested them back to back on the same day with a full pack each. The stock open cell worked MUCH better. That said our current lay out is MUCH softer with rounded bumps rather than sharp edges. The current lay out is much bumpier but the bumps are more rounded, so it might be worth testing again. Let me know how it goes.



Good job with your build Vito.
