RC10B4.1 FT/WC
04-13-2012 | 05:35 PM
I don't think Bob was looking to offend. He did mention that he was just throwing his 2cents out there. That being said, I don't think it would hurt to try to tune out the chassis slap. A slight change in oil weight won't kill ya and you can always switch back if it doesn't feel right somewhere else. Average lap times are the key.
04-13-2012 | 06:49 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 256
From: So Cal
Are Savox servos still the hot ticket? I am thinking about getting a new one and not sure which one to get. I don't want to spend $100 on the xp1015. I want to keep it around 70 or less. Does Savox have a good repair service? I still have the plastic steering rack.
Sorry for the unorganized questions.
Sorry for the unorganized questions.
04-13-2012 | 07:03 PM
Are Savox servos still the hot ticket? I am thinking about getting a new one and not sure which one to get. I don't want to spend $100 on the xp1015. I want to keep it around 70 or less. Does Savox have a good repair service? I still have the plastic steering rack.
Sorry for the unorganized questions.
Sorry for the unorganized questions.
04-13-2012 | 07:07 PM
Hideeho
I run a 1258 (I bought it for a hyper 10sc), but if I were buying now I would get the 1257 (slightly faster, slightly less torq, but still more than enough for a buggy). If you have a spektrum system you MUST get a glitch buster. I believe it would be a good idea for other systems as well, but it is an absolute MUST HAVE for spektrum. The savox servo draws a lot of current and causes brown outs easily. Spektrum systems are very susceptible to this. I know this from 1st hand experience. If you start having any issues with the steering or throttle not doing what you expect the 1st thing to check is the cap. As long as you are aware of the issues the savox w/ the spektrum have, it is a great combo. There are better things out there, but for 50-100% more $. That makes it a winner in my book.
I run a 1258 (I bought it for a hyper 10sc), but if I were buying now I would get the 1257 (slightly faster, slightly less torq, but still more than enough for a buggy). If you have a spektrum system you MUST get a glitch buster. I believe it would be a good idea for other systems as well, but it is an absolute MUST HAVE for spektrum. The savox servo draws a lot of current and causes brown outs easily. Spektrum systems are very susceptible to this. I know this from 1st hand experience. If you start having any issues with the steering or throttle not doing what you expect the 1st thing to check is the cap. As long as you are aware of the issues the savox w/ the spektrum have, it is a great combo. There are better things out there, but for 50-100% more $. That makes it a winner in my book.
04-13-2012 | 07:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
The answer Waflet gave was what I was looking for. The reason I asked the question in the first place was because I have not had this issue with other brands and wanted to get some insight from someone with knowledge of how the car reacts to changes. No where in my post did I ask someone how to tune my car so I can drive better, LOL.
Learning how to tune a car and driving the car go hand in hand, but are two totally different disciplines altogether. Your answer to my question implies that the hours we all spend tuning our cars will not help make us better drivers. If that is the case then why don't we all buy Ready to Runs?
I race at SRS in Arizona. On any given night there may be 95 to 100 entries. Out of those, 10% of those racers are factory team drivers including Maifield. Out of those, maybe 5% will downside a jump perfectly every time. The difference is if a pro misses a jump, chances are his car is properly tuned and would not bounce if he slaps the chassis.
Take a look at some of the Cactus videos from this year. There is a triple in front that some guys were quading. The "Downside" is almost nonexistent, so chassis slap was almost guaranteed.
Most of the time I can take the criticism but in this instance you were way off base with your reply.
You mean to tell me that the next time one of the pros offers me a tuning tip, I should say no thanks I'll just go practice some more instead?
Learning how to tune a car and driving the car go hand in hand, but are two totally different disciplines altogether. Your answer to my question implies that the hours we all spend tuning our cars will not help make us better drivers. If that is the case then why don't we all buy Ready to Runs?
I race at SRS in Arizona. On any given night there may be 95 to 100 entries. Out of those, 10% of those racers are factory team drivers including Maifield. Out of those, maybe 5% will downside a jump perfectly every time. The difference is if a pro misses a jump, chances are his car is properly tuned and would not bounce if he slaps the chassis.
Take a look at some of the Cactus videos from this year. There is a triple in front that some guys were quading. The "Downside" is almost nonexistent, so chassis slap was almost guaranteed.
Most of the time I can take the criticism but in this instance you were way off base with your reply.
You mean to tell me that the next time one of the pros offers me a tuning tip, I should say no thanks I'll just go practice some more instead?
As far as that triple/quad goes... no amount of tuning will fix your car on that one. It was playing hell with everyone's cars...that's why most complained about it LOL
04-13-2012 | 08:27 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 256
From: So Cal
Hideeho
I run a 1258 (I bought it for a hyper 10sc), but if I were buying now I would get the 1257 (slightly faster, slightly less torq, but still more than enough for a buggy). If you have a spektrum system you MUST get a glitch buster. I believe it would be a good idea for other systems as well, but it is an absolute MUST HAVE for spektrum. The savox servo draws a lot of current and causes brown outs easily. Spektrum systems are very susceptible to this. I know this from 1st hand experience. If you start having any issues with the steering or throttle not doing what you expect the 1st thing to check is the cap. As long as you are aware of the issues the savox w/ the spektrum have, it is a great combo. There are better things out there, but for 50-100% more $. That makes it a winner in my book.
I run a 1258 (I bought it for a hyper 10sc), but if I were buying now I would get the 1257 (slightly faster, slightly less torq, but still more than enough for a buggy). If you have a spektrum system you MUST get a glitch buster. I believe it would be a good idea for other systems as well, but it is an absolute MUST HAVE for spektrum. The savox servo draws a lot of current and causes brown outs easily. Spektrum systems are very susceptible to this. I know this from 1st hand experience. If you start having any issues with the steering or throttle not doing what you expect the 1st thing to check is the cap. As long as you are aware of the issues the savox w/ the spektrum have, it is a great combo. There are better things out there, but for 50-100% more $. That makes it a winner in my book.
04-13-2012 | 09:27 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
You tune for 90%, not 10%. That's my point. Listen to me or ignore me, it really won't bother me either way. In fact, ignore me and ask Maifield LOL
As far as that triple/quad goes... no amount of tuning will fix your car on that one. It was playing hell with everyone's cars...that's why most complained about it LOL
As far as that triple/quad goes... no amount of tuning will fix your car on that one. It was playing hell with everyone's cars...that's why most complained about it LOL
04-13-2012 | 10:26 PM
tonight ran mod with the ryan vassa worlds setup, only difference was -1 camber all around, car felt very good, the 2.5 toe in made me have to drive smoother but I could drive it faster which lowered my lap times
you could stiffen your rear a hair, raise the ride height just a bit, 2.5 higher oil etc.
I find 25 #3 piston has slightly more pack then 27.5 #2 and feels real good.
I find 25 #3 piston has slightly more pack then 27.5 #2 and feels real good.
04-13-2012 | 10:32 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,230
Hey guy's.there is not much talking in the t4.1 thread. So i thought mabe someone here could help.I run a 9.5/tekin rs pro in my t4.1.wondering how the NEW 223 is working out on the track? better/smoother? Thanks,
04-14-2012 | 01:10 AM
Installed the in line axles... they lasted 2 mins and I removed them
I lost nearly all my entry turning going into a corner. Mid and exit were about the same.
Went back to trailing and ended up setting the track record today
13.85 sec
I lost nearly all my entry turning going into a corner. Mid and exit were about the same.
Went back to trailing and ended up setting the track record today
13.85 sec
04-14-2012 | 04:41 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 314
From: Massapequa, NY
There are certainly a few things you can try. I noticed you posted the springs you ran earlier, but I didn't catch oil etc... So I will make some assumptions. If there are some spots with flat landings you can look at running 35wt front / 30 wt rear (assuming 2 pistons all around) to slow the compression when hitting a flat surface. You can also build a little more rebound into the shocks. I generally build with about 2-3 mm of rebound, and in certain situations run another mm or so.
Another thing to keep notice of is how easy it is to pick up the throttle on you car. That will help to compensate if the car does slap and unloads weight from the rear. Keeping the diff on the tighter side will help with this. Closed cell rear inserts also help considerably in this area. I also noticed that you were running red Losi fronts. Even with the shorty pack the car was easier to drive with a stiffer front spring (silver - blue). When going stiffer I found that the car squared up better off the corner and in general was more stable.
I hope this helps.... And feel free to pm if you have any additional questions.
Last edited by Vin_Nocella; 04-14-2012 at 05:00 AM.
04-14-2012 | 04:55 AM
I'm assuming you are running a standard 27.5wt / #2 piston.
For a small but noticeable change, try drilling a #3 piston with #55 bits. This gives a little more pack than standard but is not as big a change as a #3 piston.
If you go to #3 piston you will need to decrease your oil wt to 25. This will help slap but can reduce traction on small Sharp bumps. The step from 2 to 3 is quite large.
I've had success drilling one hole of a #3 piston with a #55 bit to create a '2.5' piston.25 et with this and 25wt oil.
Another trick to stop chassis slap is to apply power just before you land as the drivesgafts will bind a little.
It's not always possible to downslope jumps, especially on tracks with poor downslopes, so I've found these tricks to help. The pro setups tend to have less pack as this gets max traction and they have the skill to land jumps well!
Ray
