RC10B4.1 FT/WC
03-20-2012 | 09:03 PM
03-20-2012 | 09:31 PM
i picked up a mt4 radio that was used twice,no telementy stuff,guy bought one and the adjustments didn't work,sent it in and got a brand new one, used it twice and i paid 120!!for it
came with a hobby people lipo,feels very comfortable and very light,radio posts look like a really nice radio
came with a hobby people lipo,feels very comfortable and very light,radio posts look like a really nice radio
03-20-2012 | 09:35 PM
What have some of you found to solve a noisy transmission? I have replaced everything but the main shaft and it really looks great still! I highly doubt that is the issue!!!! I have been running Kyosho for 4 years and Associated for one. Have never used lube in the transmission and am wondering if it is used in AE transmissions to quiet them down or if it is simply a tad noisy?
03-20-2012 | 09:41 PM
I read somewhere that someone responded saying that you should get a ball diff. I am using the rtr gear diff still and am finishing in the top three in the stock buggy class at my local track. Don't waste your money on it yet until you get really good.
03-20-2012 | 10:39 PM
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-spektrum.html
03-20-2012 | 11:09 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 356
From: NJ
Heres a couple things:
1) how tight do u tighten the trans case screws? You want to slide them through the case, then put a dab of blue locktight on the ends and tighten them down on the motor plate then back them off. I also put a ballstud washer on the opposite side where the screw head is so it evens out the preasure on the case..
2) Check you motor plate they tend to bend causing misalignment.
3) You said u replaced all the gears except the topshaft? Even though it looks good by eye that also can bend slightly cause alot of noise, and stress. Specially on the trans bearings, idler gear, and trans case.. Not to mention spur gear wobble..
4) Check the top shaft teeth make sure there nice striaght and clean, also the other plastic gears 1 little piece of debre can cause i chip on any of the gears and will make noise..
5) how fresh arethe bearings?
6) if u can find the older plastic idler and diff gear the white ones they seem to be a little softer and mold better to break in...
7) A BIG thing to check is the spacer that goes inbetween the end of the topshaft and bearing in the trans.. Some had to make it a tad bit smaller in overal size by putting it flat against a dremal cutting wheel so it takes a even amount of material away.
8) When i build a new trans or replace gears i always break them in before running on the track for best effecincy.. (THIS SEEMS LIKE ALOT OF UNNESSACARY WORK BUT I GUESS ITS JUST A OLD TC3 HABBIT) this is what i do 1) i build the diff no special way,2) then i build up the trans like the instructions say..3) i put a dab of this paste i have it has grit in it i forget its name but some use to use toothpaste..4) mount a old stock motor in it with a big pinion. 5) then hook it up to one of my chargers that has a motor feature and let it run for like 5-10 min on a low voltage like 3 volts.. so it wears in the plastic.. 6) disassemble the whole thing rebuild the diff so its race ready, clean all the bearings really good, reoil them, clean all the gears with a tooth bruch so they look brand new.. 7) then i always use a dry lube.. i only put a dab or 2 on the idler gear making sure it doesnt contaminate the diff...8) then i reassemble like normal... never had a prob with noisy trans( knock on wood)..
But like i said it makes the trans very eff.. and it will have no drag and spin forever and last forever..
Like i said it just my habbit and im sure many will disagree but thats what i do
1) how tight do u tighten the trans case screws? You want to slide them through the case, then put a dab of blue locktight on the ends and tighten them down on the motor plate then back them off. I also put a ballstud washer on the opposite side where the screw head is so it evens out the preasure on the case..
2) Check you motor plate they tend to bend causing misalignment.
3) You said u replaced all the gears except the topshaft? Even though it looks good by eye that also can bend slightly cause alot of noise, and stress. Specially on the trans bearings, idler gear, and trans case.. Not to mention spur gear wobble..
4) Check the top shaft teeth make sure there nice striaght and clean, also the other plastic gears 1 little piece of debre can cause i chip on any of the gears and will make noise..
5) how fresh arethe bearings?
6) if u can find the older plastic idler and diff gear the white ones they seem to be a little softer and mold better to break in...
7) A BIG thing to check is the spacer that goes inbetween the end of the topshaft and bearing in the trans.. Some had to make it a tad bit smaller in overal size by putting it flat against a dremal cutting wheel so it takes a even amount of material away.
8) When i build a new trans or replace gears i always break them in before running on the track for best effecincy.. (THIS SEEMS LIKE ALOT OF UNNESSACARY WORK BUT I GUESS ITS JUST A OLD TC3 HABBIT) this is what i do 1) i build the diff no special way,2) then i build up the trans like the instructions say..3) i put a dab of this paste i have it has grit in it i forget its name but some use to use toothpaste..4) mount a old stock motor in it with a big pinion. 5) then hook it up to one of my chargers that has a motor feature and let it run for like 5-10 min on a low voltage like 3 volts.. so it wears in the plastic.. 6) disassemble the whole thing rebuild the diff so its race ready, clean all the bearings really good, reoil them, clean all the gears with a tooth bruch so they look brand new.. 7) then i always use a dry lube.. i only put a dab or 2 on the idler gear making sure it doesnt contaminate the diff...8) then i reassemble like normal... never had a prob with noisy trans( knock on wood)..
But like i said it makes the trans very eff.. and it will have no drag and spin forever and last forever..
Like i said it just my habbit and im sure many will disagree but thats what i do
What have some of you found to solve a noisy transmission? I have replaced everything but the main shaft and it really looks great still! I highly doubt that is the issue!!!! I have been running Kyosho for 4 years and Associated for one. Have never used lube in the transmission and am wondering if it is used in AE transmissions to quiet them down or if it is simply a tad noisy?
03-20-2012 | 11:14 PM
Wheelman - how noisy is it? there is going to be some noise from contact the gears have - I just built a new tranny for my SC10 and it has some noise, but as long as its smooth and spins free -- that's the important part (my opinion). I have built AE transmissions on and off for almost 20 years and never used lube on the gears.
njnewc - Futaba 4PKS!!
njnewc - Futaba 4PKS!!
Thanks I might give it a shot??
I think you guys should consider Radiopost transmitter and servos!! They are both amazing!!! Feels like a Futaba in the hands and has amazing speed!! The servos are completely quiet!!! And super smooth!! Never ran better servos in 1/10 and 1/8!!
Heres a couple things:
1) how tight do u tighten the trans case screws? You want to slide them through the case, then put a dab of blue locktight on the ends and tighten them down on the motor plate then back them off. I also put a ballstud washer on the opposite side where the screw head is so it evens out the preasure on the case..
2) Check you motor plate they tend to bend causing misalignment.
3) You said u replaced all the gears except the topshaft? Even though it looks good by eye that also can bend slightly cause alot of noise, and stress. Specially on the trans bearings, idler gear, and trans case.. Not to mention spur gear wobble..
4) Check the top shaft teeth make sure there nice striaght and clean, also the other plastic gears 1 little piece of debre can cause i chip on any of the gears and will make noise..
5) how fresh arethe bearings?
6) if u can find the older plastic idler and diff gear the white ones they seem to be a little softer and mold better to break in...
7) A BIG thing to check is the spacer that goes inbetween the end of the topshaft and bearing in the trans.. Some had to make it a tad bit smaller in overal size by putting it flat against a dremal cutting wheel so it takes a even amount of material away.
8) When i build a new trans or replace gears i always break them in before running on the track for best effecincy.. (THIS SEEMS LIKE ALOT OF UNNESSACARY WORK BUT I GUESS ITS JUST A OLD TC3 HABBIT) this is what i do 1) i build the diff no special way,2) then i build up the trans like the instructions say..3) i put a dab of this paste i have it has grit in it i forget its name but some use to use toothpaste..4) mount a old stock motor in it with a big pinion. 5) then hook it up to one of my chargers that has a motor feature and let it run for like 5-10 min on a low voltage like 3 volts.. so it wears in the plastic.. 6) disassemble the whole thing rebuild the diff so its race ready, clean all the bearings really good, reoil them, clean all the gears with a tooth bruch so they look brand new.. 7) then i always use a dry lube.. i only put a dab or 2 on the idler gear making sure it doesnt contaminate the diff...8) then i reassemble like normal... never had a prob with noisy trans( knock on wood)..
But like i said it makes the trans very eff.. and it will have no drag and spin forever and last forever..
Like i said it just my habbit and im sure many will disagree but thats what i do
1) how tight do u tighten the trans case screws? You want to slide them through the case, then put a dab of blue locktight on the ends and tighten them down on the motor plate then back them off. I also put a ballstud washer on the opposite side where the screw head is so it evens out the preasure on the case..
2) Check you motor plate they tend to bend causing misalignment.
3) You said u replaced all the gears except the topshaft? Even though it looks good by eye that also can bend slightly cause alot of noise, and stress. Specially on the trans bearings, idler gear, and trans case.. Not to mention spur gear wobble..
4) Check the top shaft teeth make sure there nice striaght and clean, also the other plastic gears 1 little piece of debre can cause i chip on any of the gears and will make noise..
5) how fresh arethe bearings?
6) if u can find the older plastic idler and diff gear the white ones they seem to be a little softer and mold better to break in...
7) A BIG thing to check is the spacer that goes inbetween the end of the topshaft and bearing in the trans.. Some had to make it a tad bit smaller in overal size by putting it flat against a dremal cutting wheel so it takes a even amount of material away.
8) When i build a new trans or replace gears i always break them in before running on the track for best effecincy.. (THIS SEEMS LIKE ALOT OF UNNESSACARY WORK BUT I GUESS ITS JUST A OLD TC3 HABBIT) this is what i do 1) i build the diff no special way,2) then i build up the trans like the instructions say..3) i put a dab of this paste i have it has grit in it i forget its name but some use to use toothpaste..4) mount a old stock motor in it with a big pinion. 5) then hook it up to one of my chargers that has a motor feature and let it run for like 5-10 min on a low voltage like 3 volts.. so it wears in the plastic.. 6) disassemble the whole thing rebuild the diff so its race ready, clean all the bearings really good, reoil them, clean all the gears with a tooth bruch so they look brand new.. 7) then i always use a dry lube.. i only put a dab or 2 on the idler gear making sure it doesnt contaminate the diff...8) then i reassemble like normal... never had a prob with noisy trans( knock on wood)..
But like i said it makes the trans very eff.. and it will have no drag and spin forever and last forever..
Like i said it just my habbit and im sure many will disagree but thats what i do
I will give your trans break in a shot on the next rebuild that sounds great!! Surely time consuming but I am super anal and if that is the only way to make a super quiet B4 tranny I'm all for it!! Thanks again!!! Great post!!
03-20-2012 | 11:31 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 356
From: NJ
All of the highend radios these days offer just about the same features or hightech settings as the next company does and theres always that racer who will argue which company is better then the next brand or this one is better because this pro uses it ect ect... In fact it comes down to personal prefence of feel when ur upgrading to the higher end radios like these(futaba,KO,Airtronics,spectrum,radiopost)
From my expereince i always use airtronics from day one, from the caliber to the m8 to the m11 then i took a little time offand got back into racing when the futaba 3pk or whatever that square headed radio futaba had out.. i use it for almost 6 months at my little local indoor track which i was very much firmilair and race and prac reg there. I knew the fast lap times and times i use to run with my m11 but i just could seem to run them, could figure it out, But i knew something just wasnt right i was always fighting "hand movement" on the radio during the run and couldnt get confy likei use to be. so i was like screw it i ordered all new airtronics stuff.. the m11x.. Instanly 2 prac's later i was pulling my old lap times.. drop the lap times down by .2-.3 a lap in 1/12, this was a huge improvement considering the tracks ave lap time is a 7.5 ave.. I was running 7.1-6.8 from just switch to a radio that felt comfy in my hand...
Bob barry and sprayedbysprage can testify to it..
SO ALL IN ALL GET WAS BEST SUITS YOUR FEEL AND STYLE!!!
From my expereince i always use airtronics from day one, from the caliber to the m8 to the m11 then i took a little time offand got back into racing when the futaba 3pk or whatever that square headed radio futaba had out.. i use it for almost 6 months at my little local indoor track which i was very much firmilair and race and prac reg there. I knew the fast lap times and times i use to run with my m11 but i just could seem to run them, could figure it out, But i knew something just wasnt right i was always fighting "hand movement" on the radio during the run and couldnt get confy likei use to be. so i was like screw it i ordered all new airtronics stuff.. the m11x.. Instanly 2 prac's later i was pulling my old lap times.. drop the lap times down by .2-.3 a lap in 1/12, this was a huge improvement considering the tracks ave lap time is a 7.5 ave.. I was running 7.1-6.8 from just switch to a radio that felt comfy in my hand...
Bob barry and sprayedbysprage can testify to it..
SO ALL IN ALL GET WAS BEST SUITS YOUR FEEL AND STYLE!!!
03-21-2012 | 02:38 AM
Check all your cambers/toe while the car is powered up so that the servo holds the wheels. Then check them several times turning the wheels so that it accounts for slop/wheel wobble. Then use a pair of calipers the measure turnbuckle length, comparing each side. Then make them equal.
03-21-2012 | 04:45 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
All of the highend radios these days offer just about the same features or hightech settings as the next company does and theres always that racer who will argue which company is better then the next brand or this one is better because this pro uses it ect ect... In fact it comes down to personal prefence of feel when ur upgrading to the higher end radios like these(futaba,KO,Airtronics,spectrum,radiopost)
From my expereince i always use airtronics from day one, from the caliber to the m8 to the m11 then i took a little time offand got back into racing when the futaba 3pk or whatever that square headed radio futaba had out.. i use it for almost 6 months at my little local indoor track which i was very much firmilair and race and prac reg there. I knew the fast lap times and times i use to run with my m11 but i just could seem to run them, could figure it out, But i knew something just wasnt right i was always fighting "hand movement" on the radio during the run and couldnt get confy likei use to be. so i was like screw it i ordered all new airtronics stuff.. the m11x.. Instanly 2 prac's later i was pulling my old lap times.. drop the lap times down by .2-.3 a lap in 1/12, this was a huge improvement considering the tracks ave lap time is a 7.5 ave.. I was running 7.1-6.8 from just switch to a radio that felt comfy in my hand...
Bob barry and sprayedbysprage can testify to it..
SO ALL IN ALL GET WAS BEST SUITS YOUR FEEL AND STYLE!!!
From my expereince i always use airtronics from day one, from the caliber to the m8 to the m11 then i took a little time offand got back into racing when the futaba 3pk or whatever that square headed radio futaba had out.. i use it for almost 6 months at my little local indoor track which i was very much firmilair and race and prac reg there. I knew the fast lap times and times i use to run with my m11 but i just could seem to run them, could figure it out, But i knew something just wasnt right i was always fighting "hand movement" on the radio during the run and couldnt get confy likei use to be. so i was like screw it i ordered all new airtronics stuff.. the m11x.. Instanly 2 prac's later i was pulling my old lap times.. drop the lap times down by .2-.3 a lap in 1/12, this was a huge improvement considering the tracks ave lap time is a 7.5 ave.. I was running 7.1-6.8 from just switch to a radio that felt comfy in my hand...
Bob barry and sprayedbysprage can testify to it..
SO ALL IN ALL GET WAS BEST SUITS YOUR FEEL AND STYLE!!!
03-21-2012 | 08:49 AM
Dave I have a M8 for sale in the FS/FT forums if your looking for a "new" one.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-spektrum.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-spektrum.html
I overhaul/lubed the wheel and trigger mechanism and modded the springs again a few weeks ago (primarily trigger feel for 1/8th), and integrated my FHSS-2 module. But i wanted to source a new LCD to replace my current one.
Ive had this radio since 2001, and i hadnt taken the original LCD protective film off of it until this month. It seriously looks almost new, and everything works as its supposed to minus the LCD.
I may just move to the M11 simply because it will feel closest to an M8 in my hands. Thats what matters to me most...
03-21-2012 | 08:54 AM
Some slop is inevitable, and a little is always needed. If you run on an outdoor track that isnt high bite... dont worry too awfully much about it. Almost tight suspension components make the biggest difference on smooth high bite surfaces. A 'tight' car can be difficult to drive on rough outdoor tracks.