13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@platgof: I would agree with that. Open wheel vs closed wheel. SC has bumpers all around and a body that covers the wheels. Buggies have open wheels more like F1…

I would say the Durango is much more durable than my previous 4WD buggies. The transmission is very rugged and if you don't have full speed impacts you don't break.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, it is a tough class for sure. I just changed out my steel diff gears for plastic, what a mess that diff oil is. I noticed my right rear hub jumping around, and found out the inner bearing destructed. It was a Durango bearing, so I changed both sides with some good ones. I also changed out the servo, as the last one also destructed itself. Hopefully I have found everything that needs changing for now. You guys were right, that spur gear is noisy, and with plastic gears, it got noisier. Those plastic gears are so smooth. Now I got a bunch of metal gears stock piled. I really don't like the shaft angle in the rear going to the tires, way to cockeyed. Easy to see why the inner bearings fail.

Rutters

iTrader: (8)

I have some early aluminium castor blocks without the angle engraved, anyone know what angle these are and also what angle are the molded plastic ones off the first R model.
Thanks
Rob

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

More than likely 17s. 19 and 21 came out with engravings.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

yes, the 17*'s are unmarked, the 19 and 21's are marked.

SamuraiJack

iTrader: (41)

My car is still twitchy/bouncy on bumpy stuff. Small bumps. Can't get it to lay down. Any thoughts are appreciated.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Again, NOT a fair assessment on the buggies themselves because "IF" we drove them with the correct perspective in regards to the forces they can physically endure, we are far exceeding that with today's Brushless and LiPo technology and when you consider all the stresses these little cars are subjected to, it's a miracle they don't break more easily.

Having said that, take the time to observe the top drivers in your area and/or state and see how they calculatingly take their time to learn all of the nuances of any track they run on to build up to taking those huge quads & triples without hurting their speed. They don't just go all out from the moment their car hits the track, but they are able to do those things well and without injuring their equipment, in less time than those whom get overzealous and repeatedly try and land those crazy jumps from the start.

I watch the top guys here in Florida and they take those jumps lap, after lap, after lap and their cars rarely break. When I try to match them without taking the time to build up to it and fail to learn the lines, braking and throttle points, more often than not I will take a nasty spill and sometimes break stuff. However, when I take the time to build up to those jumps, I am able to do so almost as well as they can and sometimes even better which is the most rewarding feeling for me. My run 2 weeks ago in the C-main had those top drivers clapping for me as I limped my way around the last 3rd of the track on a dumped battery and in their mains they were hitting my lines.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

On another note… Anyone here know if there's a difference between the Avid and Schelle Bearing Kits?
Schelle provides a bit of info for theirs but Avid does not so I don't know if there's a difference other than just price?


Avid: http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=7...name=DEX410+V3

Schelle: http://www.schelleracing.com/index.p...product_id=150

micholix

Hello Rob,


I can't answer your question, about the difference, but have a look at the rdrc bearings aswell, because the price is good, too!



http://revolution-rc.com/our-product...-bearings.html

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Thanks but do they offer full kits anywhere?

micholix

Amain does have alot of rdrc products, may they have them, too?
As i'm from europe, i have alot of shops, they have tem in stock.

Vincent_Diesel

iTrader: (2)

So I have been wheeling a DEX410 V3 off and on for approximately 15 months. After a rough honeymoon with it I can honestly say that I do like it. It runs well and I have the necessary parts installed for strength to finish races, when I make mistakes... but... I get bored quickly and my interest sometimes get shifted to other offerings.

That being said, I am entertaining the idea of a Hot Bodies D413. I've heard they are strong, and I know that it is capable in the right hands (isn't that true for everything). I just don't know if it'll be an upgrade or a downgrade.

Can somebody help me decide? Stay with the DEX410 or go HB D413. I can't afford to wheel both.

I'd post in the D413 thread as well, I'd expect to get some biased opinions on both sides.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

All I will tell you is that as nice as the D413 is and as well as it handles… the incubus is done with "Racing Slop". My 410 is still as crisp and tight as it was on day 1 EVERYWHERE. And the tiny bit of play in the steering was done away with using TLR ball studs and cups throughout which I do on all my cars outside my PRS1.

The other argument for the 410 being the better car is that with many of the top guys running the 413, I'm not too far off when I'm on, and many of them would be able to spank their 413's with my car in their hands. Where the 413 has the edge is in durability but that's due to the rubber-esk plastic formula they use but some people have indeed broken parts and the STUPID shock cap design on the 413 is god awful. To remedy that issue you have to buy B5 Shock caps, standoffs and all the hardware. A more difficult scenario would be to choose between the 410 and the XB4 because I rate them both at the top equally. Both excellent in most areas and each car is a bit stronger in a select few areas over one another respectively and they cancel out one another. Both of those are also the best looking wheelers with the edge going to the 410 again (with the Kuhler). The 410 is the most difficult car to cram in electronics, but with careful planning you can get it perfect.

SamuraiJack

iTrader: (41)

incubus, TLR ball studs are 4.8mm balls, right?

Vincent_Diesel

iTrader: (2)

the_incubus THANK YOU.

It's funny. I just don't want to switch to another brand and be disappointed. I like my DEX410 as mentioned... maybe I'll just park it for a little while.