22LikesTeam Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread
11-10-2014, 09:15 PM
Tech Regular
Another update on my experience so far with the V4, 4 packs ran through it and 3 broken parts, rear arm, front tower and front bulkhead all occured seperately, so i'm pretty annoyed so far, anyway here is my solution to the issues this buggy has.
Firstly the arms can break on any buggy so i decided to boil all arms hubs etc..(will do bulkheads eventually too)
Second the shock towers holes are too close to the edge and will eventually break no matter how good a driver you think you are, my solution is to mount a spare touring car tower to the back of the dex410 tower to reinforce it. This one is frp and can be bought from 3racing for under $5 but carbon would be even better.
Next the front bulkhead, the screw hole that mounts the top brace to the bulkhead is a weak spot and pretty poor on Durango's engineers to think it wouldn't break there, i decided to make a brace similar to the D413 but using a turnbuckle and some ballstuds and cups, again spares from my TC, the body needs to be trimmed a little but overall i think it looks ok.
I will test and report back but i am waiting for a new bulkhead as the one pictured is the broken one that i glued back together, but i will drive it on the weekend like that if the new one doesn't show.
Firstly the arms can break on any buggy so i decided to boil all arms hubs etc..(will do bulkheads eventually too)
Second the shock towers holes are too close to the edge and will eventually break no matter how good a driver you think you are, my solution is to mount a spare touring car tower to the back of the dex410 tower to reinforce it. This one is frp and can be bought from 3racing for under $5 but carbon would be even better.
Next the front bulkhead, the screw hole that mounts the top brace to the bulkhead is a weak spot and pretty poor on Durango's engineers to think it wouldn't break there, i decided to make a brace similar to the D413 but using a turnbuckle and some ballstuds and cups, again spares from my TC, the body needs to be trimmed a little but overall i think it looks ok.
I will test and report back but i am waiting for a new bulkhead as the one pictured is the broken one that i glued back together, but i will drive it on the weekend like that if the new one doesn't show.
Today I was messing around with batteries and thought i would try and run two shorties. I know they will fit and I made a series connector tonight. Has anyone else tried this? I know it's going to make the car heavier but I'm not really worried about that. I am mostly just looking for more run time. With two shorties I can hopefully just show up and race without having to charge batteries between rounds.
11-10-2014, 10:17 PM
Hell yeah that's a good idea I think I might have to try that.
Today I was messing around with batteries and thought i would try and run two shorties. I know they will fit and I made a series connector tonight. Has anyone else tried this? I know it's going to make the car heavier but I'm not really worried about that. I am mostly just looking for more run time. With two shorties I can hopefully just show up and race without having to charge batteries between rounds.
Today I was messing around with batteries and thought i would try and run two shorties. I know they will fit and I made a series connector tonight. Has anyone else tried this? I know it's going to make the car heavier but I'm not really worried about that. I am mostly just looking for more run time. With two shorties I can hopefully just show up and race without having to charge batteries between rounds.
11-11-2014, 04:55 AM
Tech Regular
In parallel is what I want to do. I have two of the same 3800mah batteries that I got at the same time I'm goin to use. I'm trying to get about 18-20 min run times because I sometimes race back tobackto back at our small club and if I can simplify things it will make life a lot easier.
11-11-2014, 06:27 AM
Does anyone know if any body makes a harder front arm like RPM for this buggy and a center gear diff or ball diff like the one for sc104x4? Thanks. I've been googling but no results
11-11-2014, 06:52 AM
No offense to anyone but either you guys are kamikaze drivers overcommitting according to your abilities (the most likely case) or your cars are too fast for your tracks. I've broken common things like arms but only a single front tower and that was from a hellacious wreck landing a quad out of desperation to try and make the bump to the A-main at the JConcepts super cup earlier this year. That was totally my fault, and even then the tower fractured and my right front was drooping slightly but I was able to finish the race, on the heels of 2nd and just miss the bump.
This car is a tank but using the B-Spec front arms has mad a huge difference because it eliminates the grub screw on the front blocks and uses the capture screw to keep the pin in place. This leads to less breakage.
One thing I'd like to talk up after no being able to get my hands on Vortex wings this time around, the XB4 wing is almost identical to the Vortex in performance. Similar downforce but a tad more flexible so it should last a tad longer and sits nicely on the car and flows well with the Kuhler lid.
This car is a tank but using the B-Spec front arms has mad a huge difference because it eliminates the grub screw on the front blocks and uses the capture screw to keep the pin in place. This leads to less breakage.
One thing I'd like to talk up after no being able to get my hands on Vortex wings this time around, the XB4 wing is almost identical to the Vortex in performance. Similar downforce but a tad more flexible so it should last a tad longer and sits nicely on the car and flows well with the Kuhler lid.
11-11-2014, 07:40 AM
No RPM arms. Get the B-type arms and also McMaster Pins (PN 91595A143). May need to dremel to right length. This combo is solid. Had some decent spills and yet to break anything.
11-11-2014, 07:58 AM
no center diff. But if your running the older v3 car, you could consider the v4 2-way slipper.
No RPM arms. Get the B-type arms and also McMaster Pins (PN 91595A143). May need to dremel to right length. This combo is solid. Had some decent spills and yet to break anything.
No RPM arms. Get the B-type arms and also McMaster Pins (PN 91595A143). May need to dremel to right length. This combo is solid. Had some decent spills and yet to break anything.
11-11-2014, 08:18 AM
Rpm is a more flexible plastic, no good for racing
11-11-2014, 10:59 AM
11-11-2014, 12:24 PM
That is correct, someone made a comment about harder rpm arms, when that wouldn't be the case. No one makes aftermarket arms for the buggy.
11-11-2014, 06:57 PM
No offense to anyone but either you guys are kamikaze drivers overcommitting according to your abilities (the most likely case) or your cars are too fast for your tracks. I've broken common things like arms but only a single front tower and that was from a hellacious wreck landing a quad out of desperation to try and make the bump to the A-main at the JConcepts super cup earlier this year. That was totally my fault, and even then the tower fractured and my right front was drooping slightly but I was able to finish the race, on the heels of 2nd and just miss the bump.
This car is a tank but using the B-Spec front arms has mad a huge difference because it eliminates the grub screw on the front blocks and uses the capture screw to keep the pin in place. This leads to less breakage.
This car is a tank but using the B-Spec front arms has mad a huge difference because it eliminates the grub screw on the front blocks and uses the capture screw to keep the pin in place. This leads to less breakage.
I've broken my fair share of arms and towers on this car, but ALL of the broken parts have been meaningful crashes. High speed solid impact situations and of course the ATTACK OF THE SC! The newer Type B arms do seem better, and running the HPI vorza shock protectors as Dino described many pages back with pictures also helps.
11-11-2014, 07:41 PM
I ran my new 410 v 4 today one word awesome time love this car
11-12-2014, 01:42 AM
When I broke my parts on the v4 I wasn't going hard at all and only had the 8.5 in it that's why it was so disappointing, I read somewhere that nylon absorbs moisture and becomes more flexible over time so a new buggy may be more likely to snap a plastic part than an older one, I have since boiled all my plastic parts to speed up the absorption process, hopefully this makes the buggy more reliable
11-12-2014, 02:40 PM
are you running any boost or turbo on your ESC?? This can make an 8.5T motor pretty wild.
Let us know about the boiling, I haven't tried this yet.
Let us know about the boiling, I haven't tried this yet.
11-12-2014, 02:40 PM
4x4 buggies are cursed, no matter what brand you buy. You must baby them to make them last. I run nearly every class, and buggies are the worst, and right behind 4x4 buggies are 2wd buggies. They just don't have the protection that a sct has.