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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 11-08-2014, 04:55 AM
  #17161  
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Originally Posted by thefan
Another bad day at the track I broke the front bulkheads and worse all the online shops are out of stock till early December and I had a major race this month
Sorry to hear about the breakage...We have 4 in stock
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Old 11-08-2014, 05:52 AM
  #17162  
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Originally Posted by thefan
Another bad day at the track I broke the front bulkheads and worse all the online shops are out of stock till early December and I had a major race this month
How did it happen? Did it break just in front of the screw hole that the upper brace mounts to?

I'm on my 3rd set of bulkheads and I have two more sets coming via eBay. This is really a poor design as the whole load of the front end / shocks are transferred to the small part of the bulkhead. I was hoping to find an aluminum set of bulkheads online. No such luck.
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:14 AM
  #17163  
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Yep right where the screw hole is snapped them both off, I think I need to brace them some how like the d413 or try boiling them
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:40 PM
  #17164  
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The front bulkhead has to be the weakest part on our buggies. If anybody has any good mods or fixes I would love to hear them
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:46 PM
  #17165  
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What's another ball cup option that works with the stock ball studs?

Last edited by evostyle; 11-08-2014 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 11-08-2014, 09:18 PM
  #17166  
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Originally Posted by evostyle
What's another ball cup option that works with the stock ball studs?
The Dimex cups work great. What seems to be the issue with the cups? If you are talking about the HD V3 cups, once they pop off once you need to replace them or they will keep popping. Another thing with the V3 HD cups are the threads are pretty tight so its easy to pop them off when adjusting so you need to work the treads many times into the cups so it can be adjusted easily without popping the cups. The Kyosho ball cups work as well. (sorry I can't remember the part number) but it is a direct fit.
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Old 11-08-2014, 10:07 PM
  #17167  
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The Dimecs are a lot better and so easy to install. I only had one pop off tonight, and then my servo went out on me, stripped gears. I had an absolute blast driving this thing tonight. I can't wait to install the moulded gears on it, and get the diffs squared away. I was having a lot of steering issues and it never occurred to me the servo was going out.
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Old 11-09-2014, 12:30 AM
  #17168  
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Another update on my experience so far with the V4, 4 packs ran through it and 3 broken parts, rear arm, front tower and front bulkhead all occured seperately, so i'm pretty annoyed so far, anyway here is my solution to the issues this buggy has.
Firstly the arms can break on any buggy so i decided to boil all arms hubs etc..(will do bulkheads eventually too)
Second the shock towers holes are too close to the edge and will eventually break no matter how good a driver you think you are, my solution is to mount a spare touring car tower to the back of the dex410 tower to reinforce it. This one is frp and can be bought from 3racing for under $5 but carbon would be even better.
Next the front bulkhead, the screw hole that mounts the top brace to the bulkhead is a weak spot and pretty poor on Durango's engineers to think it wouldn't break there, i decided to make a brace similar to the D413 but using a turnbuckle and some ballstuds and cups, again spares from my TC, the body needs to be trimmed a little but overall i think it looks ok.
I will test and report back but i am waiting for a new bulkhead as the one pictured is the broken one that i glued back together, but i will drive it on the weekend like that if the new one doesn't show.
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-p7160377.jpg   Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-p7160378.jpg   Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-p7160380.jpg  
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Old 11-09-2014, 04:59 AM
  #17169  
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I run a 'defective' 5mm front tower and have never broken it and only cleaned off the bulkheads once in a big wreak. Someone here was working on manufacturing 5mm towers and those shouled fix the tower issue, and bulkheads are cheap compared tothe tower so I wouldn't be concerned there.
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Old 11-09-2014, 06:11 AM
  #17170  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
The Dimex cups work great. What seems to be the issue with the cups? If you are talking about the HD V3 cups, once they pop off once you need to replace them or they will keep popping. Another thing with the V3 HD cups are the threads are pretty tight so its easy to pop them off when adjusting so you need to work the treads many times into the cups so it can be adjusted easily without popping the cups. The Kyosho ball cups work as well. (sorry I can't remember the part number) but it is a direct fit.
I'm using the Dimex cups that came with my v4 kit. So far I've had two front camber links get "pushed" in. The plastic doesn't seem to be all that stiff to me. The tie rods are really easy to thread in. As far as the Dimex cups popping off I had one of my steering rods come off last night in the main. After 3 mishaps with these Dimex cups I need another more reliable solution. I'll give the kyosho cups a look.
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Old 11-09-2014, 07:29 AM
  #17171  
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Originally Posted by evostyle
I'm using the Dimex cups that came with my v4 kit. So far I've had two front camber links get "pushed" in. The plastic doesn't seem to be all that stiff to me. The tie rods are really easy to thread in. As far as the Dimex cups popping off I had one of my steering rods come off last night in the main. After 3 mishaps with these Dimex cups I need another more reliable solution. I'll give the kyosho cups a look.
I have had same issue, with pushing in on front camber links when I run on carpet. Also have rear pulling off.
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Old 11-09-2014, 07:33 AM
  #17172  
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I've broken my fair share of shock towers both front and rear. I'm currently using the HP Vorza shock tower protectors (Thanks Dino!) and that also seems to have helped.

I'm still breaking quite a few front arms. Always in between the hub and where the lower shock mount screws. Last time I rebuilt the car I used plastic spacers on the hinge pins to provide more flexibility and possibility some impact absorption. I'm not sure if this was effective. I'm still considering using plastic pivots instead of the steal pivots for the suspension as another way to provide a less rigid system. Also allowing for flexibility upon impact.

I've also considered using the 410R plastic towers as a way to reinforce the front and rear towers. I usually keep these as spares along with the CF since they are cheaper.
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Old 11-09-2014, 11:08 AM
  #17173  
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I think the shock mount screws on the front arms are too long, so that hole is too deep. I've had two arms snap there.

Re: dimec cups. I have had the threads get pushed in or pulled out (but this was on a buggy i bought used) got all new ones and per Durango's blog threaded them carefully all the way in and back out with a tiny bit of grease. Hopefully that will give them stronger threads.
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Old 11-09-2014, 12:50 PM
  #17174  
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Weird isn't it, they make the Dimec cups easier to install and over do it by making it to easy to strip, just like the original cups that the holes were to small and nearly impossible to get on. No middle ground here. I was surprised how well the Dimce cups stay on, not to bad, but the thread is too large to handle the force it is taking. Are the Kyoshos a direct fit? What number?
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Old 11-10-2014, 08:48 PM
  #17175  
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I never thought I would enjoy driving a 4wd buggy so much, this thing is a blast. I replaced the Align 615 servo with a Savox 1258. I stripped the big gear, so it is toast. I will start rebuilding the diffs soon. I really like the 2 and 3 hole pistons, really nice. They rebound faster somehow, I guess it is the "pack." When my Align servo was messing up, I had very high motor temps?
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