22LikesTeam Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread
11-14-2014, 03:27 PM
Wow, Bomb Proof? If that's the case they have to be made from a plastic that's far superior to the XB4. Every XB4 I've handled is a tad lighter than my 410 and that is one of the more common problems with that car. Apparently there's a tad too much play between the gears and combined with todays hellacious power, it's destroyed XB4 Satellite gears with regularity.
Perhaps Durango did some research and made sure to better engineer their gears and used superior plastic to ensure this "Bullet Proof" reliability you speak of. I dunno, maybe when I order cross pins I'll pick up a set of the plastic gears and give them a try. The Temperature drop is more appealing to me but I'm still running D-Joints all around. Need to get new bearings SOON so I might go with universals after that. Just so absurdly overpriced and buying the full set of universals is more expensive than buying some kits!
Perhaps Durango did some research and made sure to better engineer their gears and used superior plastic to ensure this "Bullet Proof" reliability you speak of. I dunno, maybe when I order cross pins I'll pick up a set of the plastic gears and give them a try. The Temperature drop is more appealing to me but I'm still running D-Joints all around. Need to get new bearings SOON so I might go with universals after that. Just so absurdly overpriced and buying the full set of universals is more expensive than buying some kits!
For low grip situations, try also getting rear universals only if you need more rear bite. Stick with the CVDs on high bite tracks. The CVD straighten on power and causes the rear arms to sit level applying more pressure onto the tires giving you more forward traction. But if side grip is what you are looking for. Definitely rear universals.
11-14-2014, 05:36 PM
Wow, Bomb Proof? If that's the case they have to be made from a plastic that's far superior to the XB4. Every XB4 I've handled is a tad lighter than my 410 and that is one of the more common problems with that car. Apparently there's a tad too much play between the gears and combined with todays hellacious power, it's destroyed XB4 Satellite gears with regularity.
Perhaps Durango did some research and made sure to better engineer their gears and used superior plastic to ensure this "Bullet Proof" reliability you speak of. I dunno, maybe when I order cross pins I'll pick up a set of the plastic gears and give them a try. The Temperature drop is more appealing to me but I'm still running D-Joints all around. Need to get new bearings SOON so I might go with universals after that. Just so absurdly overpriced and buying the full set of universals is more expensive than buying some kits!
Perhaps Durango did some research and made sure to better engineer their gears and used superior plastic to ensure this "Bullet Proof" reliability you speak of. I dunno, maybe when I order cross pins I'll pick up a set of the plastic gears and give them a try. The Temperature drop is more appealing to me but I'm still running D-Joints all around. Need to get new bearings SOON so I might go with universals after that. Just so absurdly overpriced and buying the full set of universals is more expensive than buying some kits!
My v4 weights 1826g. Pretty much stock, orca 6000mah saddles, proline pin points with closed cell foams, tekin rsx combo and a full sized servo.
11-14-2014, 05:47 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Stock suggest oils are too soft. It rolls way to much. I did post earlier
This is what I use using blue or purple o-rings and stock springs.
Hot summer day +30C
2x1.6 42wt Front
2x1.7 32wt Rear
Mild summer 25C - 40F/30R
Spring or fall under 20C - 37F/27R
Cool temps 10-15C - 35F/25R
Never tested below 10C.
Open cell if the track is low grip and bumpy. Closed cell for med grip semi smooth tracks.
This is what I use using blue or purple o-rings and stock springs.
Hot summer day +30C
2x1.6 42wt Front
2x1.7 32wt Rear
Mild summer 25C - 40F/30R
Spring or fall under 20C - 37F/27R
Cool temps 10-15C - 35F/25R
Never tested below 10C.
Open cell if the track is low grip and bumpy. Closed cell for med grip semi smooth tracks.
THX!!
11-14-2014, 07:06 PM
Going higher in the front cause the car to push coming in and pull hard coming out which is good on large tracks. Going lighter give you more off power entry and some exit push.
Going 3 gives you more traction in turns and more steering thru the turns especially in lower grip. Guys who use heavier in the rear is because of high grip and the heavier rear oil allows the rear to slide on high grip situations and allows the car to rotate better, and they will have more drive coming out of a corner on sugared tracks.
11-14-2014, 07:42 PM
I am running a 10.5 motor with a 23 pinion, and it overheated. I also had a stripped servo and wheel bearing come apart, so I am not sure what caused the over heating. I installed a 20 pinion, but really liked the 23. I run indoor on a small track. Should I stay with the 20? I installed the plastic gears, and went with 7k front and 3k rear to see what happens.
11-14-2014, 08:38 PM
Stock suggest oils are too soft. It rolls way to much. I did post earlier
This is what I use using blue or purple o-rings and stock springs.
Hot summer day +30C
2x1.6 42wt Front
2x1.7 32wt Rear
Mild summer 25C - 40F/30R
Spring or fall under 20C - 37F/27R
Cool temps 10-15C - 35F/25R
Never tested below 10C.
Open cell if the track is low grip and bumpy. Closed cell for med grip semi smooth tracks.
This is what I use using blue or purple o-rings and stock springs.
Hot summer day +30C
2x1.6 42wt Front
2x1.7 32wt Rear
Mild summer 25C - 40F/30R
Spring or fall under 20C - 37F/27R
Cool temps 10-15C - 35F/25R
Never tested below 10C.
Open cell if the track is low grip and bumpy. Closed cell for med grip semi smooth tracks.
I am also having trouble getting enough oil in the shock to make it bleed good when screwing on cap.
11-14-2014, 08:45 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
My diffs are 7 and 3.
Going higher in the front cause the car to push coming in and pull hard coming out which is good on large tracks. Going lighter give you more off power entry and some exit push.
Going 3 gives you more traction in turns and more steering thru the turns especially in lower grip. Guys who use heavier in the rear is because of high grip and the heavier rear oil allows the rear to slide on high grip situations and allows the car to rotate better, and they will have more drive coming out of a corner on sugared tracks.
Going higher in the front cause the car to push coming in and pull hard coming out which is good on large tracks. Going lighter give you more off power entry and some exit push.
Going 3 gives you more traction in turns and more steering thru the turns especially in lower grip. Guys who use heavier in the rear is because of high grip and the heavier rear oil allows the rear to slide on high grip situations and allows the car to rotate better, and they will have more drive coming out of a corner on sugared tracks.
11-14-2014, 11:30 PM
I am running a 10.5 motor with a 23 pinion, and it overheated. I also had a stripped servo and wheel bearing come apart, so I am not sure what caused the over heating. I installed a 20 pinion, but really liked the 23. I run indoor on a small track. Should I stay with the 20? I installed the plastic gears, and went with 7k front and 3k rear to see what happens.
The bleed the shocks, I fill them to the max, like 1 drop before over flowing with a nice size bubble of oil on top. I then put on the cap, hold the shock strait up and full compress it. You can also put some in the cap, that might help for some.
11-15-2014, 12:10 AM
Better day at the track today a few tumbles but no broken parts, I find the driveline a little noisy I have the cvd greased with boots on what do you guys use to lube the bearings
11-15-2014, 07:08 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
When using the Schumacher K1 12mm front hex set with proper axle spacing. Which EVO front 4wd wheel is closest to the stock front track width. The EVO 4wd front Losi or the Evo 4wd front Kyosho?
Also out of all the rear 12mm axle hexes.
http://www.amain.com/Search?cID=5321&s=12mm+hex
Which would be the best to use to maintain the stock track width when using the AKA rear EVO wheels?
Also out of all the rear 12mm axle hexes.
http://www.amain.com/Search?cID=5321&s=12mm+hex
Which would be the best to use to maintain the stock track width when using the AKA rear EVO wheels?
11-15-2014, 09:02 PM
11-15-2014, 10:35 PM
Had a much better day racing, and everything worked good. I had a blast driving this. None of the ball cups popped off, the Dimecs worked much better.
11-16-2014, 09:31 PM
I only use green slime or the green durango grease when building the shocks. Also I put some oil in the cap before screwing it on, so that I can get a good bleed. Just as RCJunky said.
11-17-2014, 08:37 AM
Personally I run 7-10K up front and 3-5K rear (7500/3500 pretty much religiously) on my 410 and it works on every surface I've run on just the same. I find it's the balance that's most important and most crucial in how the car behaves. I will be running it on carpet in the very near future as well so I will see if any change is needed there, though I'd likely deal with it as is because I run outdoor 95% of the time and it's not worth all the effort to switch back and forth.
11-17-2014, 11:34 AM
On the oils topic is it worth going thicker on a blue groove surface and moving rear arms forward but the hubs to the back?
