Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread >

Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Like Tree22Likes

Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 10-04-2010, 06:30 PM
  #2191  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
 
RETRO R/C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Down Under
Posts: 3,289
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

I might be a bit biased, however I can highly recommend the VENOM batteries and speed controls. Like most people I thought of Venom as more budget brand, however in the last 12 to 18 months their race products are every bit as brilliant as brands costing twice as much.

As you may know - Venom uses the same manufacturer as Speed Passion and Hobbywing etc for their speed controls. I have NEVER used a smoother speed control - and I own a Tekin and have used LRP etc, the software upgrades are also free and the speed control does not require a laptop to program it. They are all good brands, however, even if money is not a concern, you can always spend the money that you save on tires, parts and other consumables, which will allow you to have more track time and practice.

The batteries are definately some the best value on the market. I was very impressed with the 5200 45C batts - gave me an absolute tonne of power and obviously heaps of duration. If I can make one suggestion - avoid using the deans plugs - such a pain in this car. Most charging systems and speed controls now come "wired" for the Corally type tube connectors.

Thought I might throw up a few pics of mine after final prep for a championship here in Australia...........might keep you going before yours arrives



As an aside, you will note that I am using the Tresrey "Gainbull" body. Heat was one of the intial concerns with the car, these shells give allot more room for heat-sinks and fans etc. I also have a new body ready to paint by "BUGLE BOY" bodies here in Australia. Has the same basic style as the original Durango shell - but re-engineered for more room. Will try and get some pics of it soon - absolutely awesome looking shell!

This DEX410 is allot like the Associated B4(or B4.1) in that once you have the one basic set up - you change it very little from there - only minor tweaks here and there are generally required.

Cheers

Darryn
RETRO R/C is offline  
Old 10-04-2010, 06:30 PM
  #2192  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
 
Matt Howard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Abilene TX
Posts: 5,954
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Just the side plates. I am going to run 2k this week to see if it helps.
Where are your rear hubs and arms mounted? Shortening the wheelbase will increase rear traction, especially onpower.
Matt Howard is offline  
Old 10-04-2010, 06:36 PM
  #2193  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (71)
 
Bman's 3XNT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ct.
Posts: 3,045
Trader Rating: 71 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Matt Howard
Where are your rear hubs and arms mounted? Shortening the wheelbase will increase rear traction, especially onpower.
Everything is forward. Longest rear camber link in #2, bottom of rear shocks outside hole and run -2/4 for rear anti squat. Next I am going to try the 1 deg. hubs. Also rear light green springs and 30 wt drilled pistons to #55. Thanks for any more help....
Bman's 3XNT is offline  
Old 10-04-2010, 06:38 PM
  #2194  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (6)
 
Matt Howard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Abilene TX
Posts: 5,954
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Everything is forward. Longest rear camber link in #2, bottom of rear shocks outside hole and run -2/4 for rear anti squat. Next I am going to try the 1 deg. hubs. Also light green springs and 30 wt drilled pistons to #55Thanks for any more help....
put the rear shocks in the middle hole on the arm, having them in the outside takes away rear droop and makes the shock stiffer. I can almost guarantee you that is the issue.
Matt Howard is offline  
Old 10-04-2010, 06:48 PM
  #2195  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
 
RETRO R/C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Down Under
Posts: 3,289
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

I have the weight set and have tried all the configurations. For me personally thew car is allot more forgiving to drive running the skid plate weight at the rear. It also has the added benefit of not getting destroyed like the plastic one does when the car catches on the track. Weight is less of an issue these days, and to be honest I was allot happier with the car when the weight was in the back.

Cheers

Darryn
RETRO R/C is offline  
Old 10-04-2010, 06:52 PM
  #2196  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
dangerwr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 2,245
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Matt Howard
I'm going to have to respectfully disagree. Every car I've driven, this one included, gains rear traction by lightening the rear diff action. Obviously if you go too light you'll diff out but anything around 2k-3k in the rear should be fine if your looking for more rear traction.
This is what I thought at first as well. Lightening up the diff action will definitely get everything moving faster. I am not sure this is really what you want. What I am thinking is that a lighter fluid could start to spin the outside too fast. I am not sure what too thin is in this car yet but if the balance--or the rate at which the outside catches up with the inside--is off then you will ultimately compromise traction because your back end comes loose.
dangerwr is offline  
Old 10-04-2010, 10:54 PM
  #2197  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
 
MaTt 93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Australia, NSW
Posts: 581
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RETRO R/C
As an aside, you will note that I am using the Tresrey "Gainbull" body. Heat was one of the intial concerns with the car, these shells give allot more room for heat-sinks and fans etc. I also have a new body ready to paint by "BUGLE BOY" bodies here in Australia. Has the same basic style as the original Durango shell - but re-engineered for more room. Will try and get some pics of it soon - absolutely awesome looking shell!


Cheers

Darryn
Is that the body Harlow was using at the states titles? Also have you tried jarreds setup? I'm thinking of going down in diff oils because on every other setup i've seen there useing lighter diff oil
MaTt 93 is offline  
Old 10-04-2010, 11:40 PM
  #2198  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
 
RETRO R/C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Down Under
Posts: 3,289
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MaTt 93
Is that the body Harlow was using at the states titles? Also have you tried jarreds setup? I'm thinking of going down in diff oils because on every other setup i've seen there useing lighter diff oil
Yes - the body was a "Bugle Boy" shell - an early version of what they are now producing. Great looking shell.

I think our conditions in NSW can be quite a bit different to elswhere around the globe - with the exception of perhaps ST Ives when it is prepped like the titles. I have run the heavier oils because when I first tried the car with 7k in the front and 2k in the rear it was very "nervous". I still have relatively light oil in the rear. The other factor for my diffs is that I am using the Kyosho orings to seal the diffs instead of the standard kit "X-rings" - that slows the action down somewhat.

Each track is going to be different - and everyone drives differently. I think Hupo's set up is a really good start, one which I based my set up on.

Cheers

Darryn
RETRO R/C is offline  
Old 10-04-2010, 11:44 PM
  #2199  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (104)
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,000
Trader Rating: 104 (100%+)
Default

Anyone that wants to sell, let me know, none are out there now.
Ostach24 is offline  
Old 10-05-2010, 12:21 AM
  #2200  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 23
Default

WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD STARTING SET UP FOR A lOAMY LOOSE SURFACE WITH LOTS OF RUTS.
MY LOCAL TRACK HERE IN NEW ZEALAND (COUNTIES) HAS ASURFACE THAT BREAKS UP EASILY. THE TYRES WE NORMALLY RUN ARE LOSI STEP PINS OR J CONCEPTS GOOSEBUMPS.

ANY HELP APPRECIATED
kiwi79a is offline  
Old 10-05-2010, 07:22 AM
  #2201  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
 
grapejuice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 3,197
Trader Rating: 152 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kiwi79a
WHAT WOULD BE A GOOD STARTING SET UP FOR A lOAMY LOOSE SURFACE WITH LOTS OF RUTS.
MY LOCAL TRACK HERE IN NEW ZEALAND (COUNTIES) HAS ASURFACE THAT BREAKS UP EASILY. THE TYRES WE NORMALLY RUN ARE LOSI STEP PINS OR J CONCEPTS GOOSEBUMPS.

ANY HELP APPRECIATED
Go on petitrc.com, they have a set-up sheet section, you should be able to find one there...I posted a link a few pages back.
grapejuice is offline  
Old 10-05-2010, 07:28 AM
  #2202  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
R-E-A-P-E-R-'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 1,892
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

OK, I have never run a 7.4v saddle pack before. Can I charge them individually or do I have to charge them in series?
R-E-A-P-E-R- is offline  
Old 10-05-2010, 07:43 AM
  #2203  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
 
grapejuice's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 3,197
Trader Rating: 152 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by R-E-A-P-E-R-
OK, I have never run a 7.4v saddle pack before. Can I charge them individually or do I have to charge them in series?
Series, don't even pull mine out of my car most of the time.
grapejuice is offline  
Old 10-05-2010, 07:55 AM
  #2204  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (148)
 
Dlewis4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Saint Joseph, MO
Posts: 4,758
Trader Rating: 148 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by grapejuice
Series, don't even pull mine out of my car most of the time.
Yup. In Series...
Dlewis4 is offline  
Old 10-05-2010, 08:02 AM
  #2205  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
1evo RRR Driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,615
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by grapejuice
Series, don't even pull mine out of my car most of the time.
Not a good idea, I saw a 1/8 buggy completely burn up Sunday when his lipo exploded, always take the battery out of your car.........
1evo RRR Driver is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.