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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 06-21-2015, 09:23 PM
  #17941  
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Can anybody out there direct me to some dirt low traction setups for my V4 buggy?
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:39 PM
  #17942  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
To save the front shock towers. I used the HPI vorza shock protectors. Do a search on this thread for it a bit back, I have pics and diagrams posted with it and how to install it.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/13551994-post16830.html

It will save a lot of front shock towers.
Great idea! At ~30 bucks for the front or rear shock tower it adds up quick. After I broke the first two fronts I got one in aluminum, probably adds a little weight but holds up much better. Just finished replacing the broken rear cf tower with an aluminum replacement. Dont have time to race any longer so the few extra grams doesnt bother me much on the occasion I get to practice. The front aluminum shock tower is also a bit taller (few extra holes) and protects the shocks (especially shock caps) a bit better, looks like the shock protectors also help with that a bit too.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:04 PM
  #17943  
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I did okay with this last week as I was feeling a little out of it, as I don't race as much and have lost some control. The best part is the captured steering as before I was coming off the track every 5 laps to reconnect the steering turnbuckle, and that gets real old quick. I definitely need those tower protectors front and rear.
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:57 AM
  #17944  
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Originally Posted by platgof
I did okay with this last week as I was feeling a little out of it, as I don't race as much and have lost some control. The best part is the captured steering as before I was coming off the track every 5 laps to reconnect the steering turnbuckle, and that gets real old quick. I definitely need those tower protectors front and rear.
One the ballcups pop off the ball link in a crash, you just replace them. If you don't they will keep popping off all the time. And if I have to disassemble the car, I rather unscrew the ball link while still in the ballcup instead of popping them off.
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Old 06-25-2015, 05:20 PM
  #17945  
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I do not have ball cup problems now that I have installed the Traxxas captured turnbuckles. I put them on my Desc210 and 410 as well. Now I have nothing to blame but my driver skills! Bummer!
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Old 06-25-2015, 05:46 PM
  #17946  
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Better yet, swap them out for TLR cups and never have them pop off again. For the most part of course. Extreme impacts CAN result in popping off, or as in my case the cups hold so well I bent a Lunsford turnbuckle.
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:43 AM
  #17947  
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A bit pricey but I bought the Lunsford punisher kit. Those ball ups never pop off. Or you can do rpm cups and Associated ti-coated TC studs.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:36 AM
  #17948  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Better yet, swap them out for TLR cups and never have them pop off again. For the most part of course. Extreme impacts CAN result in popping off, or as in my case the cups hold so well I bent a Lunsford turnbuckle.
TLR Cups? When I had the 22, they had slop and it drove me nuts, till I changed them to Kyosho. I am much happier with the newer DimeX ball cups instead. The newer and stronger ones (not the older dimec that will come off when you adjust the ball cups cause they were too tight.)
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:57 PM
  #17949  
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None of it worked for me as I hit a lot of stuff. The only thing that did was Traxxas. I had Lunsford and the others mentioned. Now I never worry about it at all.
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Old 06-27-2015, 06:47 AM
  #17950  
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I'm looking for a part and can't seem to find a part number or what it's called. Since I'm a new member, I can't post a link to a picture yet.

It's the part that is kind of like a short turnbuckle that connects the aluminum servo saver to the servo arm.
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Old 06-27-2015, 07:11 AM
  #17951  
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The ends come with the ball cup parts tree, and the food is just a long m3 set screw, I forget the length, around 20mm, It'll say in the manual
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Old 06-27-2015, 07:12 AM
  #17952  
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Originally Posted by gr8scott72
I'm looking for a part and can't seem to find a part number or what it's called. Since I'm a new member, I can't post a link to a picture yet.

It's the part that is kind of like a short turnbuckle that connects the aluminum servo saver to the servo arm.
The steering link?
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Old 06-29-2015, 01:07 PM
  #17953  
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So this question is a bit out of left field, but what are you guys doing about the heat saturation that happens in the chassis and rear driveline? My car gets so hot that Its puffing my saddle packs and literally have to throw it in the fridge at the track to cool it off.

Just so were clear, there are no binds in the drivelines. I run a LRP X20 6.5 in the car on carpet with a fan on the esc and motor. The temps on the motor are around 159* consistently and the esc is about 135*. So all of the heat is being drawn from the motor and heating up the chassis. Im just curious how some of you have addressed this?
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:04 PM
  #17954  
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Currently running dino exact setup but having a huge problem of the rear kicking up when jumping. Before I chnage the rear oil I wanted to make sure this would be the best way to handle this.
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Old 06-29-2015, 04:49 PM
  #17955  
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Originally Posted by Laker67
So this question is a bit out of left field, but what are you guys doing about the heat saturation that happens in the chassis and rear driveline? My car gets so hot that Its puffing my saddle packs and literally have to throw it in the fridge at the track to cool it off.

Just so were clear, there are no binds in the drivelines. I run a LRP X20 6.5 in the car on carpet with a fan on the esc and motor. The temps on the motor are around 159* consistently and the esc is about 135*. So all of the heat is being drawn from the motor and heating up the chassis. I'm just curious how some of you have addressed this?
If your rear central drive shaft is not hot and it is coming all from the motor/esc, you've surely have a gearing issue. You can run some washers under the motor/diff mount to lift it off the chassis a little bit, which should drop the heat transfer to the metal chassis. Running Velcro instead of servo tape give you a bit more insulation from the ESC, but not a heap more.

If you're running the modded split battery strap I posted about a while back, you can put thin felt under the saddles and still have clearance.

If its getting that hot though, I'd look at changing your gearing or motor/esc.

I find if the saddles are puffing in either the Dex410 or DeSC410, its more than just raw heat, those batteries are getting hammered by the esc/motor combo ( drawing too much power due to high load )
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