Dino_D

By moving the caster block to the front, the balance and weight of the car are transferred more to the rear. This also reduces corner entry steering and makes the car more stable over jumps and bumps. I normally run it full forward.

By moving the blocks to the rear, the balance and weight of the car are transferred more to the front. I also find moving the blocks to the rear gives you more steering since the car weight is now more front bias, also your wheelbase is shorter. Which helps when you are struggling for steering on technical tracks.

Lets say you are running 0 toe. Having the positions in the forward holes makes it shorter and easier to drive. Having the position the rear holes makes it longer and more aggressive.
Once you add toe out or in, it changes things around.

If you run toe out, as you start the turn, the initial turn in will be faster, as the inside tire will start to grab and steer, thru mid corner, cause of the effect of toe out, it will steer less thru mid corner and exit as weight is applied to the outside tire of the turn. With toe in, the opposite is true. It will push on entry and have better mid-corner and exit steering.

Then you need to account for which ackermann setting you are running which changes or enhances or counteracts you toe settings.
Normally I run between 0 to 1 toe out.

As for effects of ackerman. It's effects depend if you are running 0 toe, toe in or toe out.
http://www.rctek.com/technical/handl...principle.html

Keep in mind, uou can alter your steering via diff oils as well.

Front diff: Heavy diff gives you push on entry but more on-power and exit steering. Light lift gives more initial turn in off power turn in but push on exit

Rear diff: This affect traction. Light diff gets more steering and traction. Heavy diff makes the car slide and swing around more or drift the car via throttle.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

sorry if I am repeating this question but is anyone running 12mm front hexes? if so which model? the hot bodies model referred to on petitrc seems hard to find. Also if you are running a 12mm front hex are you using the Losi 22-4 style rims? or something else?

Thanks in advance!!

coaltrain

iTrader: (1)

They have them at Tower.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXBTDA&P=K

RC Planet too
http://www.rcplanet.com/Hot_Bodies_F...p/hbs61499.htm

ridgeracer

iTrader: (4)

Are you sure those are 12mm and not 10mm ?
Some say the Aero K1 front hexes fits the DEX410. In Stock at Amain.

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

Thanks Dino

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I'm also looking for Tresrey 14mm clamping hexes….seems they are the same front and rear? if anyone has a set they would like to get rid of let me know please

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! hard to tell what size these are. Even after checking the HPI site….Can you confirm they are 12mm and also if you are using them what wheels do you use? Losi 22-4?

Thanks so much!

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

I've also heard K1 front hexes work with 22-4 wheels…can anyone confirm this? I swear it was talked about here in this forum but since we have about a 1000 pages it's a little hard to search.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

How did this work out? I'm considering 22-4 wheels and K1 hexes myself. Thanks in advance!! Hoping to place an order for parts tonight

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Where did you get your RW spurs? Their website seems a little odd and I can't find them at amain or tower….

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

the tresrey ones are the same front and rear, my prefered clamping alloy hexes

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@RCJUNKY: only problem is nobody seems to have them. I only have one set. I guess the exotek is the next best….

s.amadorJR

iTrader: (2)

I looked on the Durango site but maybe I missed it.. Is there a more updated set up for US tracks? I was hoping for a OCRC Reedy Race 2014 set up since that's my local track right now.

I just want somewhere decent to start and make my changes from there.

nicholasxuu

iTrader: (13)

Jorn's 2012 reedy roc winning setup should be pretty good base. I guess he doesn't change it much anyways (he probably race on this track surface once a year)
Although be careful about his setup, I remember during 2013 reedy roc, Hara used a durango and said Jorn's setup was "crazy", he needed to mild tune the car himself. (and he's the only one using mid motor 2wd buggy in 2013 reedy roc, speaking of crazy).

Vincent_Diesel

iTrader: (2)

So today is my one year anniversary with the DEX. I seem to get bored and change brands frequently. That being said, I am entertaining thoughts of changing the entire fleet again… but... the DEX410 V3 is staying.

There is a local sponsored driver at my local track who went from full-on TD to full-on TLR/Losi with the exception of one ride -- his TD DEX410. He mentioned that for him there is nothing better than his 410 and he wouldn't make the switch. It's king of 4x4 1/10 buggy in his opinion and honestly speaking I feel the same way.

Earlier I was breaking the same rear / passenger side arm. It seems by using the recommended AE rear outer hinge pin the problem vanished. At our track the 4x4 1/10 buggy class is gaining popularity but people are getting turned off by the amount of DNFs. Consistently it seems half the field drops and just finishing a race will earn high honors. The DEX seems to be the most durable of the bunch.

Anyways just thought I'd share my experience. I haven't been on this thread in a while which is a good thing but could anyone summarize turning my V3 into a V4?