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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

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Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread

Old 04-08-2014, 08:38 AM
  #15646  
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Default starting setup

I needed a starting setup so I went to www.lutzinator.com and used Ryans most recent Reedy race setup since my local track is an indoor clay track of comparable size. Honestly the buggy just seems dialed and I may not be changing from his setup at all. Its a great setup. The shock setup uses the newer 2 and 3 hole v4 pistons as well.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:52 AM
  #15647  
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel
Anyways just thought I'd share my experience. I haven't been on this thread in a while which is a good thing but could anyone summarize turning my V3 into a V4?
Well to upgrade the essentials as follows: (retail prices quotes off the durango website)

TD210008 - TWO WAY SLIPPER SET $56
Allows you to tune front and rear slip independently acting like a center diff.

TD230037 - SUSPENSION ARM SET: FRONT (Type B 1 pair) $10
Allows for 2mm adjustment of front wheel base to give you more steering or less steering

TD310290 - MOULDED CROSS SHAFT AND GEAR SET (3 Diffs) $10
Lighter rotating mass and faster acceleration

TD310424 - UJ MID-REAR $22
TD310426 - UJ MID-FRONT $21
UJ-joints instead of CVD offering less binding and a smoother transmission.

Other hop-ups include: Low-Friction O-Rings, Type B (rear arms, lipo holder, gearbox cases) which is just a material change, 19 degree caster blocks which reduce low speed steering. updated front and rear CVDs that allow for more travel, new cab forward body.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:23 AM
  #15648  
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What chassis is this? I like it


Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Yup center diff! I run 100k in mine...
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread-1.jpg  
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:01 AM
  #15649  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Well to upgrade the essentials as follows: (retail prices quotes off the durango website)

TD210008 - TWO WAY SLIPPER SET $56
Allows you to tune front and rear slip independently acting like a center diff.

TD230037 - SUSPENSION ARM SET: FRONT (Type B 1 pair) $10
Allows for 2mm adjustment of front wheel base to give you more steering or less steering

TD310290 - MOULDED CROSS SHAFT AND GEAR SET (3 Diffs) $10
Lighter rotating mass and faster acceleration

TD310424 - UJ MID-REAR $22
TD310426 - UJ MID-FRONT $21
UJ-joints instead of CVD offering less binding and a smoother transmission.

Other hop-ups include: Low-Friction O-Rings, Type B (rear arms, lipo holder, gearbox cases) which is just a material change, 19 degree caster blocks which reduce low speed steering. updated front and rear CVDs that allow for more travel, new cab forward body.
Thanks Dino_D. Ur super helpful.
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:29 AM
  #15650  
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Originally Posted by Stanfsu
What chassis is this? I like it
Stan,

That is not production. A guy here(Bman) makes them not even sure if they are for sale.

Brian
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:01 PM
  #15651  
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Originally Posted by ridgeback
I needed a starting setup so I went to www.lutzinator.com and used Ryans most recent Reedy race setup since my local track is an indoor clay track of comparable size. Honestly the buggy just seems dialed and I may not be changing from his setup at all. Its a great setup. The shock setup uses the newer 2 and 3 hole v4 pistons as well.
Hey thanks!

I will start from that set up as well.
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SUPERLOOPER
Stan,

That is not production. A guy here(Bman) makes them not even sure if they are for sale.

Brian
You are correct in that Bman makes them but YES, it is for sale. He does small runs and sells them as full upgrade kits.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:40 PM
  #15653  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
You are correct in that Bman makes them but YES, it is for sale. He does small runs and sells them as full upgrade kits.
Yup, I have one kit left... pm me if interested. Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:53 PM
  #15654  
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Bman: love the center diff idea…curious why the battery setup? wouldn't it be better to keep the batteries more in line with center as the stock setup? Or was this done to make room for the diff? did you have to make a longer chassis?
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:53 PM
  #15655  
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I'd like to see incubus, Dino D, and Bman all out to OCRC some day
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:36 PM
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sorry I'm a broken record about this but I don't think anyone answered the 12mm front wheel question…has anyone tried the 22-4 front wheels, K1 hexes or other? Any issues?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel
Thanks Dino_D. Ur super helpful.
Originally Posted by Dino_D
Well to upgrade the essentials as follows: (retail prices quotes off the durango website)

TD210008 - TWO WAY SLIPPER SET $56
Allows you to tune front and rear slip independently acting like a center diff.

TD230037 - SUSPENSION ARM SET: FRONT (Type B 1 pair) $10
Allows for 2mm adjustment of front wheel base to give you more steering or less steering

TD310290 - MOULDED CROSS SHAFT AND GEAR SET (3 Diffs) $10
Lighter rotating mass and faster acceleration

TD310424 - UJ MID-REAR $22
TD310426 - UJ MID-FRONT $21
UJ-joints instead of CVD offering less binding and a smoother transmission.

Other hop-ups include: Low-Friction O-Rings, Type B (rear arms, lipo holder, gearbox cases) which is just a material change, 19 degree caster blocks which reduce low speed steering. updated front and rear CVDs that allow for more travel, new cab forward body.
I changed the battery strap and arms just because, gear boxes as they are supposed to make the diff last longer (its definitely a stiffer plastic) and o-rings because they need a rebuild any ways. The centre UJ's and plastic diff parts are awesome, well worth the $55, just get them. I also got the dimec-x ball cups, but no ball studs as those are holding up fine. I have not gotten the dual slipper or caster blocks yet, that's basically $100 I'd rather not spend, and I like an aggressive car, but I'll revisit those parts once I start running weekly in about a month. I've had the body on order for a while, once I receive it, it will be getting a trip to the painters so we'll see when it and the 210v2 body are available, they may make an appearance at our big race at the end of July at this rate. Getting the extra plastic bits may of been over kill, but I got the car silly cheap and still have under $200 into it as is, and have about 4 sets of v3 arms now
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:13 AM
  #15658  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Bman: love the center diff idea…curious why the battery setup? wouldn't it be better to keep the batteries more in line with center as the stock setup? Or was this done to make room for the diff? did you have to make a longer chassis?
Just wanted to try something different. Wanted the weight back so I didn't have to run any additional weight kits. Also I can run a shorty across the chassis now as well. The chassis is longer by +10
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Old 04-09-2014, 08:01 AM
  #15659  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
I'd like to see incubus, Dino D, and Bman all out to OCRC some day
+1
Yeah that would be fun. Would really like to try out that track for sure. J
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Old 04-09-2014, 08:06 AM
  #15660  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
I changed the battery strap and arms just because, gear boxes as they are supposed to make the diff last longer (its definitely a stiffer plastic) and o-rings because they need a rebuild any ways. The centre UJ's and plastic diff parts are awesome, well worth the $55, just get them. I also got the dimec-x ball cups, but no ball studs as those are holding up fine. I have not gotten the dual slipper or caster blocks yet, that's basically $100 I'd rather not spend, and I like an aggressive car, but I'll revisit those parts once I start running weekly in about a month. I've had the body on order for a while, once I receive it, it will be getting a trip to the painters so we'll see when it and the 210v2 body are available, they may make an appearance at our big race at the end of July at this rate. Getting the extra plastic bits may of been over kill, but I got the car silly cheap and still have under $200 into it as is, and have about 4 sets of v3 arms now
The dual slipper is a huge upgrade for the car. It gives you front and rear bias adjustments like a center diff. Otherwise your power is 50/50
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