Team Durango DEX410 4WD 1/10 Off-Road Buggy Thread
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
starting setup
I needed a starting setup so I went to www.lutzinator.com and used Ryans most recent Reedy race setup since my local track is an indoor clay track of comparable size. Honestly the buggy just seems dialed and I may not be changing from his setup at all. Its a great setup. The shock setup uses the newer 2 and 3 hole v4 pistons as well.
TD210008 - TWO WAY SLIPPER SET $56
Allows you to tune front and rear slip independently acting like a center diff.
TD230037 - SUSPENSION ARM SET: FRONT (Type B 1 pair) $10
Allows for 2mm adjustment of front wheel base to give you more steering or less steering
TD310290 - MOULDED CROSS SHAFT AND GEAR SET (3 Diffs) $10
Lighter rotating mass and faster acceleration
TD310424 - UJ MID-REAR $22
TD310426 - UJ MID-FRONT $21
UJ-joints instead of CVD offering less binding and a smoother transmission.
Other hop-ups include: Low-Friction O-Rings, Type B (rear arms, lipo holder, gearbox cases) which is just a material change, 19 degree caster blocks which reduce low speed steering. updated front and rear CVDs that allow for more travel, new cab forward body.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (294)
Well to upgrade the essentials as follows: (retail prices quotes off the durango website)
TD210008 - TWO WAY SLIPPER SET $56
Allows you to tune front and rear slip independently acting like a center diff.
TD230037 - SUSPENSION ARM SET: FRONT (Type B 1 pair) $10
Allows for 2mm adjustment of front wheel base to give you more steering or less steering
TD310290 - MOULDED CROSS SHAFT AND GEAR SET (3 Diffs) $10
Lighter rotating mass and faster acceleration
TD310424 - UJ MID-REAR $22
TD310426 - UJ MID-FRONT $21
UJ-joints instead of CVD offering less binding and a smoother transmission.
Other hop-ups include: Low-Friction O-Rings, Type B (rear arms, lipo holder, gearbox cases) which is just a material change, 19 degree caster blocks which reduce low speed steering. updated front and rear CVDs that allow for more travel, new cab forward body.
TD210008 - TWO WAY SLIPPER SET $56
Allows you to tune front and rear slip independently acting like a center diff.
TD230037 - SUSPENSION ARM SET: FRONT (Type B 1 pair) $10
Allows for 2mm adjustment of front wheel base to give you more steering or less steering
TD310290 - MOULDED CROSS SHAFT AND GEAR SET (3 Diffs) $10
Lighter rotating mass and faster acceleration
TD310424 - UJ MID-REAR $22
TD310426 - UJ MID-FRONT $21
UJ-joints instead of CVD offering less binding and a smoother transmission.
Other hop-ups include: Low-Friction O-Rings, Type B (rear arms, lipo holder, gearbox cases) which is just a material change, 19 degree caster blocks which reduce low speed steering. updated front and rear CVDs that allow for more travel, new cab forward body.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
I needed a starting setup so I went to www.lutzinator.com and used Ryans most recent Reedy race setup since my local track is an indoor clay track of comparable size. Honestly the buggy just seems dialed and I may not be changing from his setup at all. Its a great setup. The shock setup uses the newer 2 and 3 hole v4 pistons as well.
I will start from that set up as well.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Bman: love the center diff idea…curious why the battery setup? wouldn't it be better to keep the batteries more in line with center as the stock setup? Or was this done to make room for the diff? did you have to make a longer chassis?
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I'd like to see incubus, Dino D, and Bman all out to OCRC some day
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
sorry I'm a broken record about this but I don't think anyone answered the 12mm front wheel question…has anyone tried the 22-4 front wheels, K1 hexes or other? Any issues?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Well to upgrade the essentials as follows: (retail prices quotes off the durango website)
TD210008 - TWO WAY SLIPPER SET $56
Allows you to tune front and rear slip independently acting like a center diff.
TD230037 - SUSPENSION ARM SET: FRONT (Type B 1 pair) $10
Allows for 2mm adjustment of front wheel base to give you more steering or less steering
TD310290 - MOULDED CROSS SHAFT AND GEAR SET (3 Diffs) $10
Lighter rotating mass and faster acceleration
TD310424 - UJ MID-REAR $22
TD310426 - UJ MID-FRONT $21
UJ-joints instead of CVD offering less binding and a smoother transmission.
Other hop-ups include: Low-Friction O-Rings, Type B (rear arms, lipo holder, gearbox cases) which is just a material change, 19 degree caster blocks which reduce low speed steering. updated front and rear CVDs that allow for more travel, new cab forward body.
TD210008 - TWO WAY SLIPPER SET $56
Allows you to tune front and rear slip independently acting like a center diff.
TD230037 - SUSPENSION ARM SET: FRONT (Type B 1 pair) $10
Allows for 2mm adjustment of front wheel base to give you more steering or less steering
TD310290 - MOULDED CROSS SHAFT AND GEAR SET (3 Diffs) $10
Lighter rotating mass and faster acceleration
TD310424 - UJ MID-REAR $22
TD310426 - UJ MID-FRONT $21
UJ-joints instead of CVD offering less binding and a smoother transmission.
Other hop-ups include: Low-Friction O-Rings, Type B (rear arms, lipo holder, gearbox cases) which is just a material change, 19 degree caster blocks which reduce low speed steering. updated front and rear CVDs that allow for more travel, new cab forward body.
Just wanted to try something different. Wanted the weight back so I didn't have to run any additional weight kits. Also I can run a shorty across the chassis now as well. The chassis is longer by +10
I changed the battery strap and arms just because, gear boxes as they are supposed to make the diff last longer (its definitely a stiffer plastic) and o-rings because they need a rebuild any ways. The centre UJ's and plastic diff parts are awesome, well worth the $55, just get them. I also got the dimec-x ball cups, but no ball studs as those are holding up fine. I have not gotten the dual slipper or caster blocks yet, that's basically $100 I'd rather not spend, and I like an aggressive car, but I'll revisit those parts once I start running weekly in about a month. I've had the body on order for a while, once I receive it, it will be getting a trip to the painters so we'll see when it and the 210v2 body are available, they may make an appearance at our big race at the end of July at this rate. Getting the extra plastic bits may of been over kill, but I got the car silly cheap and still have under $200 into it as is, and have about 4 sets of v3 arms now