S Miller

[QUOTE=ekt;13204161]I noticed you are using the aluminium servo mount, there can be an issue of the top deck moving because it doesn't have the locators that fit into the top deck hole like the plastic mount. There was a mod for it, but I'll have to try find it.
*Edit
Found it here rctech.net/forum/11408457-post11388 [QUOTE]

So I tried this mod and it did not stiffen the front of the chassis at all in the area that is flexing.

Like I said before, you really have to land right at the top point of a landing with the middle of your chassis to cause the front drive shaft pop out.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Are you running the alum diff hoops? I wonder if these would stiffen the front end enough to keep the drive shaft intact when you land on the face of a jump. I haven't had this problem yet although I haven't taken too many landings in the same way you mentioned….

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

If your referring to my comments, then go ahead and try it. Nobody said you shouldn't try it. If you race super high traction dirt or carpet yes. I tried it on medium traction dirt and it didn't work for me. Have at it and let us know your results. Not hard taking the front diff and center cvds out. Just disconnect the front driveshafts at the hubs.

TLRrunner

iTrader: (9)

Has anyone tried the front wing similar to what Jorn ran at EOS round 4? If so how is it mounted?

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Front wings are usually mounted on the shock tower somehow. However, there are ways to set up a car to work well without the front wing.

I've had an idea to cut Lexan pieces that would mount to the front arm hardware that has a measured pitch in order to provide a significant amount of downforce without looking so clumsy and cumbersome the way traditional front wings do.

micholix

Hi TLRrunner,

I was there this weekend and i've not exactly seen, how Jorn was mounting the front wing, but i saw how Lee Martin was testing with the front wing on his yokomo!
They just stick them on the bodyshell with double side tap, thats all!

Man, that was such a great weekend and i saw many prototyp parts and stuff, thats not on the market jet, or even not will go on the market at all!?

TLRrunner

iTrader: (9)

Thanks micholix!

micholix

You are welcome!

04sti20

So I picked up a v3 roller. Didn't come with sway bars. What do I need? I have the rod ends already but don't know what else. So far I think I need

Td230012 front 1.5mm roll bar kit
Tdr230013 rear 1.5 kit. I'm starting with 1.5 to be sort of in the middle

Dino_D

V3 likes a light front sway bar (1.1 or 1.3) or None - Depending on layout for clay or dirt

04sti20

Your right. I race on a clay/ dirt mixture. I tried running no sway in the front of my scte 2.0 but it was too much.

Dino_D

Keep in mind diffs also play a huge importance in setup.

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

The most cost effective way for me to get the sway bars going on my V3 was with the TD230031 kit.

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD230031

The only other part you may need depending what came with your roller.

TD330003

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD330003

04sti20

Great find thanks! I wonder if anyone has a set of those front anti roll bar brackets laying around??

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone had trouble with the diff outdrive sleeves causing a little bit of binding with my drive shafts? It seems the drive shaft pin rides on the internal ridges of the sleeve causing the suspension to stick a little bit. I had expected these to bed in a bit after running a few practice days and a race day. Still a little sticky though, has anyone else experienced this? Did you shave down the pin just enough to keep it from sticking? Dremel the inside of the sleeve a little?

Thanks in advance!