smith9turbo

sorry for you, but it often to happen for original XRAY CVD.
you should read this page, we talk about XRAY CVD
page 97 => http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...2012-a-97.html

on that page, we talk about this option too...
this TIP... it so good for me, and it can solve my XRAY CVD PIN problem.


if you don't do something about XRAY CVD,
you may be lost all 4 CVD and both upright and both steering box. with PIN loose problem.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

I was thinking of getting one of these. I noticed that crc says the T32S is the stiff version and the T32F is the flex version, while VBC claim the other way around. I was inclined to believe VBC as the S version only has a 2mm chassis...

How does it feel on whatever surface you are running on, compared to the stock '12 chassis?

Mb3195

I would imagine the f stands for flex and s stands for stiff?

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

Thats what would make sense.

But the F version has a 2,5mm chassis and the S a 2,0mm

gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

Maybe the F=Firm and S=Soft.

blade072

iTrader: (98)

the f version may be thicker but it has less carbon due to all the cutouts.....hence it has flex..if it was a full chassis like the s then i would say it is firm but that just isnt the case....would hate to think how flexy it would be in 2mm carbon....

full deck = stiff
swiss cheese = flex

Ariel Reds

ohh i see thanks!

i will change it, but i noticed that the kit come with Medium rear upright and knuckle right?

smith9turbo

my XRAY T3 2012 KIT come with
Knuckle(Steering box) H
C-HUB H (4L, 4R)
rear upright 0-degree M
(H=Hard, M=Medium)

Ariel Reds

oh sorry, maybe i'm made the mistake
so far, i managed to get rid of the rear belt problem

COLD AS ICE

iTrader: (19)

new t3 2012 on the way

I was wandering if anybody knows if the spec-R BD-5 ecs shaft will work in the front of this car, I ask because i am switching from a photon and have like 4 sets of these things and dont really want to have to restock on new ones. Thanks!

narcotiks

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys


Had a head on Collision with a barrier today , my antenna wire came in contact with power wires and I lost control
The front toe is now en even and on neutral throttle th car is banking to the right.
the front steering links are of equal length but the toe is out of allignment.
I just checked it on the setup system and I'm pretty sure one side is 2 degrees more than the other ...

What parts should I check out that could be bent or semi broken?
And to fix the toe back to normal , should I change the steering link length or should I add spacers to the rear arm mount thing?

Thanks in advanced

locked

iTrader: (1)

Check the suspension mount screws. They can bend in a hard impact and throw off the alignment. Check these after any run with a impact. If the screw wobbles around when you loosen it, replace the screw.

Make sure the aluminum suspension mounts aren't bent.

Check that the servo horn/saver didn't move and that the turnbuckle didn't bend or get yanked out of the ball cups a bit.

Always a good idea to check the bearings after a good hit. The outer wheel bearing are the ones that tend to have an issue first. If one side is binding more than the other, it will usually pull toward the side with the bind.

CarbonJoe

Most common: hinge pins, hinge pin screws, front bulkheads, hinge pin holder aluminum T shaped part, steering links.

Less likely: broken A arm, broken steering knuckle, bent axle.

I would find out what's bent. Changing only the steering rod length will give you unequal steering left and right.

defcone

iTrader: (15)

The ball size of the cvd is different. You could try covering the ball with some heatshrink and see if it will fit like that.

David G

Love the idea, have a set on the way. With this you can't see joint and maybe more protected for grease leaving and carpet etc getting in. For indoor carpet use, how often do you take apart this setup for either re-grease or cleaning?