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Xray T3 2012

Old 02-18-2012, 12:05 PM
  #1501  
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Originally Posted by David G
Love the idea, have a set on the way. With this you can't see joint and maybe more protected for grease leaving and carpet etc getting in. For indoor carpet use, how often do you take apart this setup for either re-grease or cleaning?
I take them apart to inspect, clean and re-grease when I notice carpet fuzz in the joint that can't be easily removed with tweezers, or if I notice binding in the drive train somewhere. So, probably every 3 race weekends or so.

Our carpet fuzzes a lot, so on newer carpet it may not be required as often. I clean them more often when running on asphalt due to the dust and grit on the track.
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:31 PM
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Hey guys i have aluminum c hubs and aluminum rear uprites and aluminum knuckles for sale if anyone is interested
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Ariel Reds
okay thanks!

first run yesterday, after couple minutes, i broke my rear upright and the CVD just gone i had problem with the pin and the upright seem not very tough as I not accident while i test it
very good English writing... easy to understand ..
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:12 AM
  #1504  
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sorry noob quetion here! what brand of spur will fit perfectly other than xray one? example like associated, xenon, RW racing and 3racing, which one?
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:52 PM
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Hi bro,

Go for RW for xray... ( TPracing )

Originally Posted by Ariel Reds
sorry noob quetion here! what brand of spur will fit perfectly other than xray one? example like associated, xenon, RW racing and 3racing, which one?
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Zainy
Hi bro,

Go for RW for xray... ( TPracing )
haha okay thanks bro
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:29 AM
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also arrowmax will fit perfectly......
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:45 AM
  #1508  
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I can't build anything to save my life

When you do the gear diff up is oil suppose to seep out a little????

I have done everything the instruction says and can't get it right, I HATE that black o ring more than anything in the world
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:30 AM
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for me, the CVD drive me crazy
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by NR
I can't build anything to save my life

When you do the gear diff up is oil suppose to seep out a little????

I have done everything the instruction says and can't get it right, I HATE that black o ring more than anything in the world
Maybe a tiny bit, but it really shouldn't leak. You might be filling the diff with too much oil. I try to replace the rubber o-ring AND the paper seal each time I open up the diff. Make sure the 4 center gears are seated in all the way and fill with oil til it's about half way up the center + piece that holds the 4 gears. When in down, underfill rather than overfill. Then make sure the o-ring and seal are in place properly and it shouldn't leak.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by M-Technic
Maybe a tiny bit, but it really shouldn't leak. You might be filling the diff with too much oil. I try to replace the rubber o-ring AND the paper seal each time I open up the diff. Make sure the 4 center gears are seated in all the way and fill with oil til it's about half way up the center + piece that holds the 4 gears. When in down, underfill rather than overfill. Then make sure the o-ring and seal are in place properly and it shouldn't leak.
the gear diff assembly is very crucial, once you do it wrong, your life will be in miserable
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by NR
I can't build anything to save my life

When you do the gear diff up is oil suppose to seep out a little????

I have done everything the instruction says and can't get it right, I HATE that black o ring more than anything in the world
That black o-ring really isn't needed. I just used some Green Slime where the ring would normally go. Built up 2 diffs this way with relatively light oil and I haven't experienced any leakage so far.

Also, when you're building your diff, the half that you put oil in should be 7.90 grams totally dry, and 9.20 grams when filled to the correct point with oil. So if you have a pocket scale, that is a pretty accurate way to do it.
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by NR
I can't build anything to save my life

When you do the gear diff up is oil suppose to seep out a little????

I have done everything the instruction says and can't get it right, I HATE that black o ring more than anything in the world
I've found the best way was to actually put the O-ring onto the other half on the diff housing from the one suggested in the manual

I actually put it onto the lip in the other half, then with my finger put some of the oil onto the o-ring.

When you put the two halves together I lower the thinner half very carefully down onto the larger half which contains the oiul and the o-ring

Last edited by Skiddins; 02-20-2012 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:52 PM
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Just in case anyone cares I did update my spring rate comparison document...nice resource to have at the track. Hope you find it useful!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
spring rates v3.pdf (19.8 KB, 629 views)
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by artwork
Just in case anyone cares I did update my spring rate comparison document...nice resource to have at the track. Hope you find it useful!

The missing Holly Grail of spring charts......thanks Art.
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