bozzplayer

iTrader: (17)

lol, sound like fun, but before u teach me the English language how about you try and CONQUER driving in a straight line without hitting everything around you

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

You might actually want to try and make an A main before u start talking like that...

locked

iTrader: (1)

So, both of you guys(bozzplayer and theatriks) are coming to the Canadian Onroad Nats, in less than 2 weeks, to show us all your skills, right? :P

theatriks

iTrader: (8)

I cant make it ....but u will know who sam is ....just look at who makes the D main and he should be rite in there lol......and if thats not enough just look for the loudest guy there

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

I recently broke my car, and the factory replacement is out of stock:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...int-5mm-Open-8

Will these work in stead?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ctional-Open-4

Skiddins

Yes, I would look into changeing to these in future;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Joint-w-Hole-4

Which will require you to use these instead of screws;

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...w-6mm-Thread-2

With 10mm versions for the C-Hubs.

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

I actually miss the pass-through ball cups with screws from the 2012. It made it much easier to changing the shimming of the links, since you could change the length of the screw accordingly.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, but those are out of stock as well. Is there an upgrade or something that does the same job?

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

artwork

iTrader: (83)

Those look very nice!

haywood

iTrader: (49)

Nice! I may make the switch also to Tamiya/Exotek!

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

The 2nd option is best when used with our ball studs because you will have a flat plane across the top without any concern like you would if you were using the stock 2012 ball cup or the 2011 ball cup with a screw rubbing on the rim and you can run more shims if you choose as well.

locked

iTrader: (1)

Those do look really nice. I'll probably stick with the kit ones though.

I never thought I would say this before owning a T3, but I actually like the kit plastic shocks. They seem to last longer before requiring a rebuild than the aluminum shocks I've used in the past and the shafts don't get scratched up so easily.

orci77

In Xray forum it was said that he was NOT running the 2,0mm.

Skiddins

I do quite like the plastic shocks but I'm currently in the process of converting mine over to alloy.
I found that once the plastic shock body's get some grit or muck in the threads on the shock body, the adjuster gets stuck easily and then the threads get ground down which just makes it all even worse. THe alloy shocks put up with muck a bit better.

Skiddins