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Xray T3 2012

Old 02-29-2012, 06:05 AM
  #1636  
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Originally Posted by theatriks
Its on its way .....but if u knew how to read u would see i said "apparently" which would mean i dont own one myself ....but we can go over the english language next race day if u like
lol, sound like fun, but before u teach me the English language how about you try and CONQUER driving in a straight line without hitting everything around you
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:40 AM
  #1637  
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Originally Posted by bozzplayer
lol, sound like fun, but before u teach me the English language how about you try and CONQUER driving in a straight line without hitting everything around you
You might actually want to try and make an A main before u start talking like that...
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:51 AM
  #1638  
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So, both of you guys(bozzplayer and theatriks) are coming to the Canadian Onroad Nats, in less than 2 weeks, to show us all your skills, right? :P
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by locked
So, both of you guys(bozzplayer and theatriks) are coming to the Canadian Onroad Nats, in less than 2 weeks, to show us all your skills, right? :P
I cant make it ....but u will know who sam is ....just look at who makes the D main and he should be rite in there lol......and if thats not enough just look for the loudest guy there
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:27 AM
  #1640  
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I recently broke my car, and the factory replacement is out of stock:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...int-5mm-Open-8

Will these work in stead?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ctional-Open-4
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:03 AM
  #1641  
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Originally Posted by R40Victim
I recently broke my car, and the factory replacement is out of stock:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...int-5mm-Open-8

Will these work in stead?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ctional-Open-4
Yes, I would look into changeing to these in future;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Joint-w-Hole-4

Which will require you to use these instead of screws;

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...w-6mm-Thread-2

With 10mm versions for the C-Hubs.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:32 AM
  #1642  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
Yes, I would look into changeing to these in future;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Joint-w-Hole-4

Which will require you to use these instead of screws;

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...w-6mm-Thread-2

With 10mm versions for the C-Hubs.
I actually miss the pass-through ball cups with screws from the 2012. It made it much easier to changing the shimming of the links, since you could change the length of the screw accordingly.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:37 AM
  #1643  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
Yes, I would look into changeing to these in future;
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Joint-w-Hole-4

Which will require you to use these instead of screws;

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...w-6mm-Thread-2

With 10mm versions for the C-Hubs.
Thanks, but those are out of stock as well. Is there an upgrade or something that does the same job?
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:35 AM
  #1644  
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:38 AM
  #1645  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Those look very nice!
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:41 AM
  #1646  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Nice! I may make the switch also to Tamiya/Exotek!
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:06 PM
  #1647  
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Originally Posted by R40Victim
I recently broke my car, and the factory replacement is out of stock:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...int-5mm-Open-8

Will these work in stead?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ctional-Open-4
The 2nd option is best when used with our ball studs because you will have a flat plane across the top without any concern like you would if you were using the stock 2012 ball cup or the 2011 ball cup with a screw rubbing on the rim and you can run more shims if you choose as well.
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:07 PM
  #1648  
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Those do look really nice. I'll probably stick with the kit ones though.

I never thought I would say this before owning a T3, but I actually like the kit plastic shocks. They seem to last longer before requiring a rebuild than the aluminum shocks I've used in the past and the shafts don't get scratched up so easily.
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:52 PM
  #1649  
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Alexander Hagberg ran it at the Snowbirds and runs it pretty much everywhere. He seems to think its better in pretty much all conditions. Ive ran the thin top deck but not the chassis yet. Top deck does give more traction by itself.

EA
In Xray forum it was said that he was NOT running the 2,0mm.
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:03 PM
  #1650  
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Originally Posted by locked
Those do look really nice. I'll probably stick with the kit ones though.

I never thought I would say this before owning a T3, but I actually like the kit plastic shocks. They seem to last longer before requiring a rebuild than the aluminum shocks I've used in the past and the shafts don't get scratched up so easily.
I do quite like the plastic shocks but I'm currently in the process of converting mine over to alloy.
I found that once the plastic shock body's get some grit or muck in the threads on the shock body, the adjuster gets stuck easily and then the threads get ground down which just makes it all even worse. THe alloy shocks put up with muck a bit better.

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