Originally Posted by gonzo416

Seems like the gear diff with 700 is diffing out. It's like It doesn't grip or move on throttle right away. It makes a strange sound then drives forward. Will thicker diff oil fix this?

Originally Posted by johnny lee

it would depend on the level of grip at your track.
hard to say what you're going to need without being there.

but generally,
the heavier, the more on power steering, the less off power steering- could make car slide if too heavy
the lighter, more off power steering, but maybe unstable if too light squirly when get on the power.
try to find a medium you feel comfortable with

go by what feels best for yourself.
generally i'll use a spectrum of 25wt to 50wt and 80wt in extreme cases (losi oil)

Originally Posted by HarryLeach

I had a number of issues getting my CVD's built freely, pin staying in place, grub screw staying locked down, etc. I tried notching my own cross pins, using the XRay pins, wasn't ever fully happy with any of the options.

So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.

I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.

Originally Posted by M-Technic

I've had good luck with the Xray flat spot pins, and using a new grub screw each time I rebuild them (with Loctite, of course). However, I have a brand new set of the TOP retainers in my bag. I didn't think they fit the Xray CVDs. I will have to put them on my car.

Originally Posted by AARON YOUNG

Does anybody carry the aftermarket bulkhead clamps and which ones are lower than the stock ones. The a plus ones say 1 mm lower

Originally Posted by theatriks

hey guys im going over paul lemieuxs set up sheet off of the teamxray.com....and he has written down that he doesnt put an oring on the shaft of the shock.....i took my shocks apart and did this and without the o ring air gets sucked into the shock.....is this a mistake or do guys actually run like this?

Originally Posted by EAMotorsports

That part is for an o-ring on the outside of the shock shaft to act as a bump stop per say I think. Ive never seen anyone run that before.

EA

Originally Posted by EAMotorsports

CRC is carrying the VBC ones in the US. They have 4 holes instead of 3 but not sure how low they are. Only 23.99 a set too.

EA

Originally Posted by UrabusDenis

Can you explain what do you use for sealing the gear diff without the O ring? Since I'm not a native speaker I dont understand what you are using