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Old 11-02-2011 | 05:11 AM
  #9961  
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Originally Posted by jsamarin
Just ordered my basket and garolite pads. Oh, and the truck will be here friday. I have been following this thread since day one, so i have a good idea how to make this bastard child faast. WooHoo

Oh, and are the trackstar orings still worth it, or is running the lower stock x ring just as good
I had no problems with the stock x-rings, no leaks and very smooth. I did order the Trak-star o-rings and did not feel much of a change. I did also polish the pistons with a drill and green scotch brite, Dont forget the green slime when building the shocks .
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Old 11-02-2011 | 05:20 AM
  #9962  
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thats exactly what i am thinking too. i do have some ackerman bars in the works though!! will test after the RCpro finals this weekend. practice start tomorrow!

Need me to test some of the parts wink wink?

Hey can anyone PM me all the part numbers for the saddle pack conversion so I can give it a try?
Here.http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/p...0f3b9bb0b5b4ab
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Old 11-02-2011 | 05:43 AM
  #9963  
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your going to wish you had those ackermann bars on for that race.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 05:50 AM
  #9964  
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Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
your going to wish you had those ackermann bars on for that race.
what is that " ackermann bars "
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Old 11-02-2011 | 07:15 AM
  #9965  
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I have a weird problem. The rear tensioner hits the inner slipper hub causing binding.Any ideas?
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Old 11-02-2011 | 07:22 AM
  #9966  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
I have a weird problem. The rear tensioner hits the inner slipper hub causing binding.Any ideas?
I had the same problem a few weeks back make sure the screw is tightend all the way down thats what mine ended up being.
Jason
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Old 11-02-2011 | 07:24 AM
  #9967  
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Thanks! I actually switched screws because the on the included would not tighten down. Works fine now. Time to glue and paint!
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Old 11-02-2011 | 07:27 AM
  #9968  
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Originally Posted by the_freak
in the sway bar kit ther is 3 different onec i think one off them is the 1,8mm.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ar-Swaybar-Set

but im not 100% sure but pretty sure its 1,8 2,0 2,2 mm. ther is in the kit but its just a ques i get the kit in 2 days then i can tjek for ure if u need me to
Thanks, I have the kit and just assumed the small bar was the 1.5mm. The setup sheet shows four bars. My caliper is broken so I can't measure it.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 07:52 AM
  #9969  
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Originally Posted by sugs
Thanks, I have the kit and just assumed the small bar was the 1.5mm. The setup sheet shows four bars. My caliper is broken so I can't measure it.
remember im not 100% sure maybe sombody els knows it
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Old 11-02-2011 | 08:03 AM
  #9970  
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RE: Batteries

I'm moving from a 7.5 to a 4.5 550 can. While my gensace 40c 5000 packs have worked great so far, it sounds like quite a few have smoked them going to the 550 can. I've seen references to the Hobbyking Turnigy nano-tech batteries. Is this the safer route? Anyone with good/bad experiences with these on a 550 (saw a couple good, but would like to hear more)? Any of those ROAR approved at all in case it comes up?
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Old 11-02-2011 | 08:12 AM
  #9971  
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Originally Posted by RokleM
RE: Batteries

I'm moving from a 7.5 to a 4.5 550 can. While my gensace 40c 5000 packs have worked great so far, it sounds like quite a few have smoked them going to the 550 can. I've seen references to the Hobbyking Turnigy nano-tech batteries. Is this the safer route? Anyone with good/bad experiences with these on a 550 (saw a couple good, but would like to hear more)? Any of those ROAR approved at all in case it comes up?
been running gens ace 40c 5000mah on my set up ....running novak havoc pro and 550 can team epic motor ...havent had any problems can run 12-15 minutes hard running on the track ....also got a hobby shop chinese lipo cheap pack and no problems with it either ...
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Old 11-02-2011 | 08:23 AM
  #9972  
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Originally Posted by RokleM
RE: Batteries

I'm moving from a 7.5 to a 4.5 550 can. While my gensace 40c 5000 packs have worked great so far, it sounds like quite a few have smoked them going to the 550 can. I've seen references to the Hobbyking Turnigy nano-tech batteries. Is this the safer route? Anyone with good/bad experiences with these on a 550 (saw a couple good, but would like to hear more)? Any of those ROAR approved at all in case it comes up?
I ran those exact batteries all summer with my 4.5 turn 550 tekin motor without any issues. They felt warmer than average after dumping one, but never puffed and punch felt fine. Enter the tekin 4000kv 540 4 pole motor and those same packs came off the track warmer than I was comfortable with and one swelled a touch. I have since relegated my gens ace to 2wd and picked up 4 new 5600 mah 50-100C Hard case nano-techs and they come off the track as if I was running a stock buggy: cold.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 08:49 AM
  #9973  
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I had alot of leakage problems when i ran just a single stock o ring on lower cap position. I had used lots of green slime an still leaked . I tried the rcb8 o rings like someone mentioned on here and those were even worse , leaked and sucked air into shock. Finally tore down shocks , polished shafts, clearanced out the bottom caps as they were tight and caused a bit of friction, ran upper and lower x seals ( which are way overpriced as i was at the track and needed something to replace the rcb8 seals ) and they are pretty smooth now.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 08:57 AM
  #9974  
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I dropped the stock bladders and went emulsion. Just like so many shocks if you have too much oil in them they will leak due to over pressure. I love the emulsion style shocks for this reason. I had no leaks on the first race day and frankly don't expect them either. I am using both stock x-rings with green slime.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 08:58 AM
  #9975  
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Originally Posted by the_freak
remember im not 100% sure maybe sombody els knows it
The kits do not include the 1.5mm bar. I installed the yellow (2.2mm bar) on the front and the Blue (2.0mm) bar on the rear. the white is 1.8mm.
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