The replacement bladders I picked up (stock AE) were much softer than the kit bladders.

I love the 4000 and think its the best all around choice. Unless you are running a car that weighs over 6.5 lbs on a very large track you shouldn't need any more motor. If you are a "one motor needs to fit all tracks" guy, the 4600 can be dialed back to work anywhere, but it won't be able to match the throttle response of the 4000. I've let quite a few guys try my truck at one of the local indoor tracks that have the tekin 4600 in their trucks already and a couple of them walked into the hobbyshop and purchased the 4000 on the spot.

Thanks! I'm actually going with the novak SCT combo they have now, so similar.

Thanks.

I will try to get out to the track for a test run after I get things overhauled. I'll get a few minutes into the GensAce and see how it's doing heat wise and possibly go for one of the 65/130 nano-techs they're offer now if I'm concerned with the GensAce.

Ryan Lutz runs the 4600 in his Drango and he even turns down the end point quite a bit. I think too much is not a good thing with the 4600 unless you are a real pro at racing. You enter another factor in weather you change your gear or your end point on your radio to stay in control. Drivetrain destruction might be another factor with the 4600 with all the power it puts out.

Um yeah that was me. Mine drops right in like yours when the whole slipper assembly is not together like in your photo. Take another after it is assembled in the truck and let us know how centered everything is. Something is amiss just not sure what it is with my truck.

Kiro, can you post up a good RX8 setup for the Pro 4 4000kv motor or send me a pm if you want.

Thanks!

Here is my RX8 Setup.

Timing advance: 10 (equivalent of 3 degrees of timing on 'other brand' esc's)
Timing range: Default (approx 5k to 20k)
Throttle profile: 3
Drag brake: 0
Brake strength: 60 is the most I've ever needed. I dial it back according to the track surface so that I'm just shy of locking the tires up. 50 is a safe all around number, but gearing will also affect this.
Throttle minimum: 10
Brake minimum: 10
Reverse strength: 20 (just enough to roll backwards if I need to during practice)

This is all geared at either 15 or 16 teeth on the pinion with the 62 tooth spur for my local tracks. Temp your motor after 3 and 5 minutes and gear accordingly, but I come off between 140 and 180 depending on the track.

lmk if I missed any... lol

I sure will I should be done with it tonight just changing diff fluids in the front and rear and front is done. Was trying to clean the old oil out what do u guys use. I tryed this one cleaner to see if it worked and also Im trying dawn and water to see if she cuts greese ( oil ) out of my way lol

i have the same motor i am pretty sure you are over gearing it i run no bigger then the 13 tooth i come off the track at 120-150 and it is fast

Will I be able to purchase the orange one by itself...?

Associated usually sells them seperate for other models , so im guessing it will be available seperate for our sc's. I know on my RC8 they offer a sway bar kit and also sell the swaybars seperatly.

Well, Made a chassis brace, went to try it out AND.... my motor died .

Thanks Kiro, that's exactly what i'm looking for! Wiring up my RX8 right now and will hook up the hotwire later tonight.

With the 4000kv Pro 4 I'm starting with 15/62 as a fellow racer runs that gearing on his SC10 same motor and temps 120° - 130° after 6 mins, only diff is he runs a MMP esc.

I do too, and i am geared at 14/58 with a small amount of turbo and boost
This is on a somewhat large track with a big long straight. I simply like as much power as I can get! I would bet my truck is geared to go 45mph-ish
It is freaking awesome to be faster down the straight than 1/8 buggy!

how much mah do you put back into the battery after a 6 min qualifier?