The interface isnt out yet. We are about to release it. I actually helped work on it saturday and it is looking very nice. Ease of use is very good..

Any date on when the interface will be available?

Our local tracks finally came down with a mandate on stock classes, just as I picked up a viper 17.5 and 2wd buggy

Before the ruling got handed down I was playing with timing on the esc v. gearing the hell out of it just to see what felt better and still gave me reasonable temps. I see there are a couple tuning rotor options out there... What are people running for stock buggy with no esc timing? Are the rotors going to make much of a difference? Would I be better served with the torque type rotor to have more bottom end squirt with high gearing, or the rpm type to get a little more top end?

I haven't had a chance to test things out at our outdoor track, but geared 30/72, 30* on the can at our local very tight, technical indoor track I was able to put some decent laps down but lacked the bottom end grunt to clear some jumps. 26/72 with 25* esc timing and 20* on the can had much better results there, but those settings don't really translate to the larger outdoor track.

What kind of gearing and mechanical timing should I be looking at on a b4.1 w/ 17.5 running no esc timing? Thanks

Nothing solid but im sure it wont be long. I saw the rough copy and it looked sweet.

Setting up the VTX10 with a VST7.5 in a DEX410 2010 spec buggy.

I'm using a Savox 1267SG (high voltage) servo and wanted to check if anyone has experience with this servero/speed control combo?

The 7V BEC/servo/speed control combo sounds like a killer setup.

Finally, with the 7.5T and 87t spur gear, what pinion should I start with?

The default rotor in the 17.5 is the 12.5mm stock spec (high torque) rotor. It is generally the best rotor for non-boosted spec racing because it gives you the torque to gear up. Start at 33/72 on your B4.1 with 30* motor timing (assuming your track is as tight as it sounds). If your track is more average or not that tight you may want to gear up to 34-36t. Motor temps should be around 130-140 after any length run. Hope this helps!

run a spektrum rx cap and you wont have a single problem on the electronics side.

Thanks! I will give that a shot. If it helps here are videos of the two tracks:

Indoor - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIokcUr9jB0
Outdoor - http://www.youtube.com/user/iowarctr...32/IJ6pRKY6s34

When running at the indoor track with 30/72, 30* motor timing no esc timing I was coming off the track around 145. I will try gearing up and see what the temps do. I planned to try 34/72 at the outdoor track, and have a 69t spur on order. Sounds like I might have to get some bigger pinions!

Would the 12.8mm rotor be applicable in this situation? or is the stock 12.5 plenty?

There is some debate on this though...

If I run the BEC at 7V should I still need a cap? I thought turning up the BEC voltage reduced AMP draw solving any glitching issues with the servo?

I run that exact setup in my sc with my bec at 6v and not a single issue
Sorry read the servo number wrong, but I did talk to savox awhile back about their hv servo and was told that they can take more volts but they shouldn't pull more power than any of there other serves

The bigger track I think you'll be looking to gear up to a 36t, but try the 34 first. 34/69 might be pretty good, too. About 3t on the spur equal 1t on the pinion.

You shouldn't even need a cap for that servo. The 1267 is very similar to the Spektrum 6040 and lots of people have experience with the VTX esc's on both the 1267 and 6040. Try it first before you start diagnosing problems you don't have yet

i run caps because it levels out voltage spikes, and reduces wear and tear on electrical components thats all.

the board is still there:

WOW, haven't seen that happen. Just checking, sure you already looked, but there isn't anything that could have crossed wires, excess solder or anything? Metal chassis or brace that it could have come in contact with and shorted?

ya i checked a few times on the soldering and nothing touching, and with the metal part im not sure.. i ran to my car when it stopped because i thought it was about to smoke and then noticed it smelled bad and the esc was still in the same spot as it was before i ran and no metal around it.