Haha...I guess people get tired of having the same thing. But one of the guys here was right...as the weather gets better, more people dust off their Nitro cars and head out. I'd hate to always be cooped up indoors, so I can understand their reluctance to continue with Electric.

There is always Outdoor Tracks to race at with Electric .

Just a guess , but maybe he means its dump truck handling characteristics i been hearing about ...

Just ran my B4.1 and after 10-11 years of not running a 2wd, was not up to pace, but did well given the ammount of time not running a 2wd.

Question is would there be any advantage to running the "High Torque" slipper pads from the SC10 4X4 on the B4.1? My thinking is with the increased surface area of the "High Torque" pads, a slipper setting that is looser than normal could be used.

Running the Cav. clay setup from the AE site and seems to be pretty decent and fairly netural for me. Though adding the weight on the chassis is new to me (funny how things chamge in 10 plus years).

With the Cav. clay setup, I do get a little on power push. Even with weight added on the front. Running Gold Barcodes front and rear with stock foam in the fronts and molded foams in the rear.

make sure your dogbones are level or a little above and front arms are level. try hot body fullshots, you are running on clay right?

My comment was in response to a comment that stated that a few people sold their 22's saying they didn't handle all that well. The problem isn't the car. It was the owners of them not knowing how to tune a car. The 22 is a more than capable car. So is the B4 and either can win on any day.

Agreed. It's almost never the car. The driver is the most unpredictable variable, not the car.

iDrummer,

Yeah running in indoor clay. The track is about to do a layout change and I think the rumor is to add something to the clay to keep the traction more consistant.

I have a set of the HB tires you are refering to for the front of the B44. Pretty good tires. The Barcodes seem to be the tire of choice right now. Set the ride height at 24mm front and rear, I think it's close to being front arms level and rear bones level or slightly above level. The push I do get is manageable. It's probably more my not driving 2wd for so long. I think I had too much rear toe to start with (3.5 was the kit set up). Went to the 2.5 rear toe plate with the .5 hubs that come with the kit. Seemed to help. Probably going to try running just 2.5 rear toe once I get some 0 degree hubs to play with.

Thinking I'm going to try the 4X4 pads once they come in. Also anyone else had issues with breaking ball cups? Broke four of them last night. Mostly my lack of good driving and did get one shot to the rear tire. The stock ball cups doesn't seem to be that good.

Have you driven one yet, George?

We just need shocks that are as good as kyosho's. I've never built an easier shock and the way the work. Correct me if I'm wrong but, isnt there K springs progressive and the AE's are linear? Could be the reason the shocks work better on offroad? Any ideas?

I've never broken or even popped a ball cup on my SC10, but I pretty much broke the rear ball cup on my B4.1 immediately. I replaced it with the long shank RPM one and it hasn't broken since. The other side broke shortly after and replaced it with the RPM one with the same results. The other ones are holding up fine and I've left them alone.

of course, both mid & rear versions


always try to drive all the other cars available

I do as well... not only do i drive them, but i own them! There is a reason im on my 6th different buggy in a year and a half I'm not a fanboy for any given company.. i use what i think is best regardless of the name on the package. Right now i own the 22 and the b4.1, and am going back and forth.

They both pushed like dump trucks, They would be way better with Kyosho springs and AE shocks.

have you tried the RB5SP2? guys at my local track love that over both the 22 and b4.1