RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#4186
Well i wasnt going to let the cat out of the bag, i knew it was being done but i havent been on this thread in a looong time.
Think i know what my next project is going to be. Not that im un-happy with my 22 but ive always been an ae guy and i like the composite chassis more. I know how good a b4 can be and this is the next step
Think i know what my next project is going to be. Not that im un-happy with my 22 but ive always been an ae guy and i like the composite chassis more. I know how good a b4 can be and this is the next step
#4187
#4188
Good for posting the step by step but it just doesnt look very good. The cut job looks good but thats alot of glue and the bracing is what makes it look bad. The Pics are out there as to how the team did it, why not base all the bracing around those.
#4189
Ive been out of the loop for a while, guess ill have to do some searching. Seems there is plenty of room to mount the esc behind the glue joint unless thats too far back.
#4190
I edited my previous post because going back and looking at the pics it seems to have plenty of room to mount the speedo. When I did mine I used a FT B4 carbon battery strap, cut it up and used that for the bracing along the side of the battery compartment and chassis, followed this up with a little bit of glue and some screws...came out pretty good. I didnt mean to come off harsh its just that i am a bit of a perfectionist and like to have my stuff looking its best. My chassis isnt as good as the one BK made but i think its pretty darn good (It is amazing what BK can make with a dremel and some carbon sheet). I am at work right now and will post a pic of it tomorrow morning / afternoon when i wake up.
#4191
I edited my previous post because going back and looking at the pics it seems to have plenty of room to mount the speedo. When I did mine I used a FT B4 carbon battery strap, cut it up and used that for the bracing along the side of the battery compartment and chassis, followed this up with a little bit of glue and some screws...came out pretty good. I didnt mean to come off harsh its just that i am a bit of a perfectionist and like to have my stuff looking its best. My chassis isnt as good as the one BK made but i think its pretty darn good (It is amazing what BK can make with a dremel and some carbon sheet). I am at work right now and will post a pic of it tomorrow morning / afternoon when i wake up.
#4193
#4194
http://blackbeardrc.com/store/index....dc801dbd8fa28a
#4195
.....That sounds like a good idea those little 2-56ers strip out very easily. I am going to cut off the dimples and use a 4-40 tap and use something about 3/8 long. I heard they cut the rear dimples off the rear u brace "for the gearbox" also. Sometimes it can be a tight fit to snap in the gear box on those. I usually just clean up the gearbox. I may just do the u brace mod.
#4197
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/worlds2011/day1/
Scroll down about half way and they do a little right up on it. Not a step by step but you can see how they braced it. If you are trying to do this yourself i would follw Wild Cherry's step by step and look at the pics of the team cars to see how they braced it. I will post a couple pics of mine later today. Lowe's car is braced with aluminum but most of the team use an L brace or carbon fiber.
Scroll down about half way and they do a little right up on it. Not a step by step but you can see how they braced it. If you are trying to do this yourself i would follw Wild Cherry's step by step and look at the pics of the team cars to see how they braced it. I will post a couple pics of mine later today. Lowe's car is braced with aluminum but most of the team use an L brace or carbon fiber.
#4198
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/worlds2011/day1/
Scroll down about half way and they do a little right up on it. Not a step by step but you can see how they braced it. If you are trying to do this yourself i would follw Wild Cherry's step by step and look at the pics of the team cars to see how they braced it. I will post a couple pics of mine later today. Lowe's car is braced with aluminum but most of the team use an L brace or carbon fiber.
Scroll down about half way and they do a little right up on it. Not a step by step but you can see how they braced it. If you are trying to do this yourself i would follw Wild Cherry's step by step and look at the pics of the team cars to see how they braced it. I will post a couple pics of mine later today. Lowe's car is braced with aluminum but most of the team use an L brace or carbon fiber.
#4200
Todays project, took me 2 1/2 hrs including Taco's from the bus ...
What you need to do ...
1 new T-4 Chassis
1 old broken B-4 chassis or T-4 , Sc10
Dremel with a cut off wheel
a set of caliper's
1 piece of 150G sandpaper
Tire glue
1/4 masking tape
1 pro-line bull dog body (it fits)
Directions
#1 find the two find straight lines going across under the middle of chassis ....
lay a strip of 1/4 masking lap on the outside of the most forward line in the middle of chassis ...
measure from the tape towards the rear of the chassis 11.1m & mark
lay a 2nd piece of 1/4 masking tape on the line you just mark...
cut chassis in half in the middle of the two lines of tape with cut-off wheel.
use the cut-off wheel and sandpaper to grind the extra plastic right to the edge of the tape.
cut the straight sides off of old broken chassis to make L braces & glue all together as seen in pictures below
Very strong & stiff , you will not be able to break it by hand even if you try too.....
Chassis will be 8m longer than the standard B-4 chassis as reported being use by the team at Worlds....
Excuse the hack job craftsmanship...
What you need to do ...
1 new T-4 Chassis
1 old broken B-4 chassis or T-4 , Sc10
Dremel with a cut off wheel
a set of caliper's
1 piece of 150G sandpaper
Tire glue
1/4 masking tape
1 pro-line bull dog body (it fits)
Directions
#1 find the two find straight lines going across under the middle of chassis ....
lay a strip of 1/4 masking lap on the outside of the most forward line in the middle of chassis ...
measure from the tape towards the rear of the chassis 11.1m & mark
lay a 2nd piece of 1/4 masking tape on the line you just mark...
cut chassis in half in the middle of the two lines of tape with cut-off wheel.
use the cut-off wheel and sandpaper to grind the extra plastic right to the edge of the tape.
cut the straight sides off of old broken chassis to make L braces & glue all together as seen in pictures below
Very strong & stiff , you will not be able to break it by hand even if you try too.....
Chassis will be 8m longer than the standard B-4 chassis as reported being use by the team at Worlds....
Excuse the hack job craftsmanship...





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