From what i was told years ago...this isnt a tuning option, it is to maintain correct geometry when switching between inline and trailing steering blocks.

*could be wrong though*

Yeah, lot of B4.1's and T4.1's going up for sale as of late. Something's up!

You do move the caster block spacers, which you do move back or forth depending on whether you are running trailing or inline axles.. are the holes in the steering assembly moved as well for the same purpose?

That is what I always understood it as. I think some guys were playing around with it a few years back now that I think about it. Can't remember what they found out though.

And a fairly steady stream of 22's-Nitro season maybe?

i run m3 holeshots and pink 3 row ribs... they work fine on clay/topsoil outdoor

I tried it once. It was on a setup sheet I saw on here so I thought I would try it out. The back holes produce way less on power steering in my experience. I only ran it for a few laps and change back over to the front holes...

It may be better suited on a high bite track where you tend to over steer, but wasn't for me on the type of track I run on...

exactly weird how they dont explain it

Totally forgot about that...I'm in SoCal, where it's sunny 99% of the time. There's no such thing as "season". But you're comment makes sense...

I wish I could "rent" a 22 so I can do some solid A-B testing!

im not sold on the 22, I have seen about 3-4 people at my local track buy them and sell them for another b4, and most that do have them say the dont handle well...

front holes are for inline steering blocks. if you're running those then fine but your bump steer will be a little messed up if your not

This may sound blunt but the people that I've seen who have tried out the 22 and quickly sold it proclaiming it a failure quite frankly knew nothing about tuning. This isn't a bash on the B4 though so stay with me. One such guy works at a local hobby shop. He sold it and went back to his tried and true XXX which he loves. He played with the 22 for about a month and complained that he couldn't get it set up well. He talked a big game at the shop and bragged about his prowess as a driver even going so far as to claim he had raced at the ROAR nats. I watched him race his XXX the night that he sold his 22. Remember, he loves this car and claims it is dialed in. He couldn't drive to save his life and ended up in the bottom half of the B main. There was no C main and he didn't break anything. I'm certainly not going to blame the car for his results!

The fact of the matter is that the biggest advancements in the past 20 years has been in the electronics with far less in the vehicles themselves although there have been some improvements over the years. On any given weekend a XX, XXX, 22, B2, B3, B4, RB5 , etc may end up winning. At the very least they all still prove themselves to be competitive when setup properly and its the setup that is the key. Even a 20 year old car can be quite competitive today when setup well, especially considering how many people even with modern cars can't tune their cars to save their lives. I have no doubt that different cars drive and feel very different than others but all of them should be more than capable of winning in the right hands. You've got to find the one that feels best to your driving style. The first step is that you know what you are doing. Anyone who feels that they can just buy a certain car, set it up according to some setup they found on the internet, and can win with it is someone that will probably lose every single race they are in.

The 3 most important things needed to do well in a race are, in this order, 1) good tuning, 2) good driving, and 3) a good car. I put them in that order because a poorly tuned car, even with a good driver, will most likely lose to a well setup car with an average driver. A poorly setup car with a poor driver is a disaster! I left a good car for last because all of the options today, and for the last 2 decades for that matter, are all quite capable and if either of the first 2 things is bad, the type of car is pointless and won't make up for those deficiencies. You won't win with an old Tamiya Grasshopper though so you still do need a capable vehicle. You just won't win solely because you have a 22 and not a B4 or a B4 and not an RB5.

Nah.. its the most popular buggy... there have always been dozens and dozens for sale

No offense, but what are you talking about?

Let's keep it on Topic B4.1 . Still Dominating Many If Set-up right and The Driver is on His A-Game . Period.