the engine mount change came as a result of folk saying the engine must be moving and try a one piece engine mount.. made no difference.

If you are running the stock mounts and screws, you have to make sure to put the lock washers on the motor mounthing screws. Otherwise, the top and bottom screws can contact each other and will feel tight, but they are not making good contact with the chassis plate.

yes i am aware of that problem and can confirm that the screws with correct washers are seating correctly. the screws and washers have also been replaced. during the pre worlds i replaced the mounts as one of the attempts to rectify the prob. had help from other mugen drivers and was able to have it work for a 10 min heat then a 20 min final.. during the next 20 min final it stripped.... i can assure you the engine was very tight..

Hi Riketsu,
I remove the 0.1 mm shim from inside the clutch bell (the area just in front of the spring tension nut). This is so the clutch shoe does not have to travel a large distance to reach the clutch bell, but still enables the clutch bell to spin freely. I do set my clutch with play (I presume you are referring to the end play?). Currently, when my clutch is fully assembled I have approx. .3mm of end play (clutch bell movement).
NOTE: With the shims on the inside of the clutch bell, I use Kyosho shims (not the original Mugen Shims), because the original shims have a large O.D and will make contact with the outer race of the bearing.
I hope this helps.

Snackpack, thanks for the info about the shims. I dont have any shims inside the clutch bell, all I have is two bearings as the manual says.

Before I had the MTX4, I had an HPI EVO 3, which was my first car, and the clutch in the Evo3 engaged much earlier than with my mtx4, and I guess I got used to it.

As far as the gears striping, make sure you have a good tool when tighten the screws. Also set the mesh real tight till it is binding when you try to spin the spur gears backwards, then barely shift the motor till it sort of starts to spin free and leave it there. That's how I solved my problem and they are still going strong. Now when I look at the gear mesh, there is not any space between the gears. Before, I could see the space.

Hi PRG,

If you have checked almost everything... there's just 1 more thing you could checked and i suspect.

Checked the 2 speed shaft ain't bend (due to hard crash) by rolling it on a flat surface. (Since your car had 8 weeks of runtime).

If this is ok, check the 2 bearings on the Rear Bulkhead holding this 2 speed shaft.

I had this 2nd Gear stripping issue once, but on a different car (not a Mugen and 1/8th scale ). The problem was the 2 speed shaft worn out on where it rest on the bearing on the rear bulhead. Realised it when i dis assemble the 2 speed shaft out.

Good Luck !

i am having gear stripping problems as well as a mate of mine so you are not alone,like you i have checked and tried all the things i could think of as well as all the info from this thread none of which have worked, i have tried the mesh tight and loose with no success, i raced the mtx-3 for 2 years with .8 gears and never stripped a single gear i only changed the gears when they became sharp, so the problem i feel is in the chassis flexing when travelling over bumps, curbs or on impacts even with alloy side and lower braces i am still stripping gears so i am hoping a 4mm chassis when it is released will fix the problem

Also check the clutchbell's bearings ( three bearings ).

I was running the clutchbell with only two bearings... This is what happens when you buy an used car . But I got such a good deal on it its alright... . I'll report after this upcoming weekend all of my mods/checks to see if they resolved stripping gears. Top drivers like Art Carbonell, Gianni Giorgio and other serpent drivers are going to be visiting the island; hopefully I'll give em a hard time with my stock TZ Mugen (probably not).

Correct!!

My clutch bell rubs on the 2nd gear housing when chassis flexes,
major problem on mugens behalf.
Might have to shave a bit of the clutch bell.
Im not too impressed, never had a problem with mtx-3

has any one had problems with the bearings in the bell housing falling apart
at the momment i am needing to replace them after ever race meet
which is only 3 heats and 1 finial any ideas on how to fix this fault!!!

Ok before I even start building my MTX4 I need to know if this 2nd gear stripping is something I should be really concerned about. If is there a fix for it? Please feel free your suggestions. My car is still in the box with plastic wrap still in place.

Is any modification required to the clutch bell to run the 3 bearings? I had heard about this, but I have not tried it yet. I have an extra bearing that I can throw in there though.

I just threw in a spare 5x8 bearing I had. No modification is needed to use the third bearing. Does the kit come with 2 or 3 clutch bearings?