R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-04-2006, 09:21 AM   #3676
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: maryland
Posts: 138
Default

Hey corse-R, What do you mean that the rear outdrives are not the same. I thought they were.
FASASMUGEN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 09:39 AM   #3677
Tech Elite
 
Corse-R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Madrid (Spain)
Posts: 2,121
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FASASMUGEN
Hey corse-R, What do you mean that the rear outdrives are not the same. I thought they were.
When originally I assembled the diff, did it without taking some attention and the assembly was faulty, diff didn't worked.

Dissasembled completely and assembled another time and the diff was flawless, exchanged the outdrives of their sides, so don't know if the outdrives were different or not, what I know is the first time I assembled, didn't worked (hint: the outdrive pivot must be flush with the bevel gear when looking one side).
__________________
Cheers,
Corse-R
---
[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
Corse-R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 10:05 AM   #3678
Tech Elite
 
stefan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Bavaria, Germany
Posts: 3,273
Send a message via AIM to stefan
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
When originally I assembled the diff, did it without taking some attention and the assembly was faulty, diff didn't worked.

Dissasembled completely and assembled another time and the diff was flawless, exchanged the outdrives of their sides, so don't know if the outdrives were different or not, what I know is the first time I assembled, didn't worked (hint: the outdrive pivot must be flush with the bevel gear when looking one side).
You're just clumsy Alfonso

I just measured a pair of rear diff outdrives that I bought as spares and they are absolutely identical.

Maybe you got a bad pair
stefan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 10:27 AM   #3679
Tech Elite
 
Derby Bros Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 3,209
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

last time i checked they were identical
Derby Bros Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 10:37 AM   #3680
Tech Regular
 
Bad Mika's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 311
Default MTX4 Front Body Post Mounting Position

Hi Guys !

Appreciate if you could share the best mounting position for the MTX4 Front Body Post position.

Is it better to mount it closer to the center or on the outer position for the front post mounting ? Forward or Rear facing for the posts ?

Thanks in advance !
Bad Mika is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 10:45 AM   #3681
Tech Elite
 
Derby Bros Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 3,209
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Mika
Hi Guys !

Appreciate if you could share the best mounting position for the MTX4 Front Body Post position.

Is it better to mount it closer to the center or on the outer position for the front post mounting ? Forward or Rear facing for the posts ?

Thanks in advance !
i suggest you install it so the post is closest to the bumper. in some cases, you will end up having the 5th body post through the windshield if you install it the other way.
hope this helps
Derby Bros Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 11:27 AM   #3682
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 24
Default

I checked the clutch spring tension and it seems ok, around .6mm or less as the manual indicates.

I am posting the pics of my clutch in case I did something wrong.
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4-dsc01507.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-dsc01509.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-dsc01511.jpg  
TomiRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 11:30 AM   #3683
Tech Elite
 
Riketsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 2,514
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Riketsu
Default

Holy shimining batman! How much mm of shimming do you have?! It looks like 5mm of just shims! I usually only use about 1.5-2mm
Riketsu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 11:32 AM   #3684
Tech Elite
 
Riketsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 2,514
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Riketsu
Default

Btw... Use the thrust bearing (plate which has the balls) facing the other way. This is because if by any reason, that place is hit, the thrust bearing wont suffer as much as if it was facing the other way.
Riketsu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 11:36 AM   #3685
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 24
Default

Actually I have been adding shims to see if the clutch would engage earlier but it didnt, or very little. I will change the thrust bearing position, thanks.
TomiRC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 11:38 AM   #3686
Tech Elite
 
Riketsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 2,514
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Riketsu
Default

How early do you want it to engage? You know a good clutch setting is when you see smoke just before the clutch engaging... With that clutch preload and clutch gap, I really dont know what else to tell you. Is the engine tuned right? From the looks of the carb, that is a AXE Rossi engine right? Those give headaches when it comes to tuning them...
Riketsu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 03:12 PM   #3687
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 105
Default Clutch Set-Up

Hi Tomi,
With regards to your clutch set-up, ensure that you haven't installed too many shims inside the clutch bell. If so, this could be why your clutch is engaging at such high RPM, because the distance that the shoe must travel to reach the bell is too large. When I adjust my clutch, I continue to add shims inside the clutch bell until it spins freely, before removing 1 x 0.1 mm shim.
I hope this helps.
SNACKPACK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 03:26 PM   #3688
Tech Elite
 
Riketsu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 2,514
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Riketsu
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SNACKPACK
Hi Tomi,
With regards to your clutch set-up, ensure that you haven't installed too many shims inside the clutch bell. If so, this could be why your clutch is engaging at such high RPM, because the distance that the shoe must travel to reach the bell is too large. When I adjust my clutch, I continue to add shims inside the clutch bell until it spins freely, before removing 1 x 0.1 mm shim.
I hope this helps.
Where do you remove the .1 shim? from the outside or the inside of the bell? Also, do you set your clutch bell not to have any play?
Riketsu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 05:30 PM   #3689
prg
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 71
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default stripping 2nd gears

have a problem with my 2nd gear continually stripping.
I have had others look at it and have been able to keep it working for 1 maybe 2 10min heats then bang..

The engine is tight with correct screws on a 1 piece eng mount.
the servo is not pulling to far, have replaced the 1st gear oneway in case it was holding on. have gone over the meshing many times with many experts but to no avail. have checked the brace and cofirmed that it is tight. replaced all clutch bell bearings and pinion gears twice.. replaced main shaft and 2nd gear hub..

all this on an 8 week old car. last night an other driver stripped theres twice. mine once.

i am running standard gear size 17/23 58/53

motor is an lrp z12 spec2

any ideas would be apprieciated
prg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2006, 05:42 PM   #3690
Tech Elite
 
Derby Bros Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 3,209
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

with "pros" helping you already at your track and the problem still happens, i suggest you try the stock stuff that came with your car (i.e. engine mounts). it may or may not be the problem, but at least that's one factor dropped out of the equation.
Derby Bros Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
MUGEN MBX5R/MUGEN MBX5T PROSPEC/TRAXXAS RACE REVO Jason Halvorson R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 01-12-2008 10:32 AM
Mugen 5T Chassis, Mugen 46 Tooth Pinion, Associated Ride Height Gauge bretzkej R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 08-19-2007 06:31 PM
USA's Most Wanted FOR SALE Mugen MBX5R,Losi 8 comp, and Mugen MBX5T Prospec Truggy nobike R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 69 04-28-2007 07:45 PM
Another MTX3 prospec w lots of parts and an optional Mugen X12 w Mugen pipe Scott Fisher R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 11 11-21-2005 05:45 PM
drake xxx nt and mugen mst-1+extras......Looking for a kanai 2 or maybe mugen buggy [email protected] R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 06-30-2003 09:31 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:22 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net