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Old 03-03-2006, 11:57 AM   #3661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
This is great news, I just got the same tool.
Then you know what to need to carry on your toolbox.. a spare clutch bell or one dedicated to the large 2nd gears (if you plan to use someday the 25T.. who is humongous gearing, but... who knows).
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Old 03-03-2006, 06:51 PM   #3662
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fellow mugen racers!

some racers complained! mugen racing usa finally listened! ask your lhs for the price for the mtx4.
as for me, so glad that my first kit sold it brand new, now for the same price i can get front universals, 4mm shock tower, yellow clutch shoe and perhaps one piece engine mount from skyline jejejjej!
got the idea of the price?
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Old 03-03-2006, 07:06 PM   #3663
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What are you talking about? Is the price coming down or are they putting upgrades on the car from the factory?
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Old 03-03-2006, 07:10 PM   #3664
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I found a BB that has a thread on the MTX-4 !!! WOW took a while ...
I should read the thread before post'n but screw it !! I am new to Nitro On-Road ,been playing around with a Lossi xxx-nt ad2 for a while ,and want to try my hand at racing at a local level here in London.
Lay it all on me about the MTX-4 .. and On-Road racing in general ..

Thx Red
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Old 03-03-2006, 07:38 PM   #3665
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If you read back about the last 15-20 pages, you will have a good idea all about the car. It would be impossible for us to recall all of the issues we have discussed.

By the way, the MTX-4 is an awesome car.
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Old 03-04-2006, 12:02 AM   #3666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
What are you talking about? Is the price coming down or are they putting upgrades on the car from the factory?
upgrades nah!
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Old 03-04-2006, 12:21 AM   #3667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
By the way, the MTX-4 is an awesome car.

Couldn't agree with you more
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Old 03-04-2006, 12:55 AM   #3668
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Does someone know how can I make my clutch to engage earlier?

Someone in the forum recommend me to reduce the gap of the clutch by adding shims or changing the spring. I did add more shims and I have reduced the clutch gap, but the clutch seems to engage too late still. It engages at 50% or 60% of acceleration. Is it that normal?

Moreover, can someone explain to me about the tire split between fronts and rears? Thanks!!
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Old 03-04-2006, 12:55 AM   #3669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrider736
I found a BB that has a thread on the MTX-4 !!! WOW took a while ...
I should read the thread before post'n but screw it !! I am new to Nitro On-Road ,been playing around with a Lossi xxx-nt ad2 for a while ,and want to try my hand at racing at a local level here in London.
Lay it all on me about the MTX-4 .. and On-Road racing in general ..
You've chosen one of the best cars available, I suggest you take your time to read this thread (well, there are lots of pages, but you'll see what faced each of us and the issues we found and how we solved). This car is not perfect (but none car is... just remember it).

Regarding knowing all about On-road racing in few words is hard to do... My best suggestion: Practice time on your track, know your car and waste your money on tyres, fuel and practice time, time for aftermarket parts will arrive and you, knowing your car you'll see what pieces you want for your car.
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Old 03-04-2006, 01:20 AM   #3670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomiRC
Does someone know how can I make my clutch to engage earlier?

Someone in the forum recommend me to reduce the gap of the clutch by adding shims or changing the spring. I did add more shims and I have reduced the clutch gap, but the clutch seems to engage too late still. It engages at 50% or 60% of acceleration. Is it that normal?

Moreover, can someone explain to me about the tire split between fronts and rears? Thanks!!
Regarding clutch... seems you have something weird on your clutch if engages at 50 or 60% of acceleration, first, check for any kind of residues on the clutch bell (clean it with brake cleaner to remove any trace of oil and others). Second thing to do is to check your clutch spring tightness, reduce the tension 1/4 of turn to see if improves and engages at lower rpms.

Tyre splits are different depending on the front outer pulley you've installed, but as Chris West (If I remember good) said, with the 24T you need a 2.5mm tyre split (F/R), some new kits come with a 25T who doesn't need a split, but... I like the 24T, just because the tyres are smaller and this gives me more shock travel on the fronts (seemed a little reduced on their stock form).

Another way to increase the shock travel on the front shocks is to install the H0858 ball cups on the lower portion of the shock, instead of the longer H0855B and this permits to screw a little more the shock collar and gain some milimeters of shock travel. Need to test it, seemed that all those who use 4 tyres equal could find interesting.
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 03-04-2006, 01:53 AM   #3671
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Is a set-up jig needed or is ment more for someone like my self new to on-road racing ?
If there would be one up-grade that I should do during build-up what would that up-grade be. What should I look into for servos ,and a Engine ?? I run a M11 radio,and have used OS in the past for my Engines (and have had good luck with them)
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Old 03-04-2006, 04:56 AM   #3672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrider736
Is a set-up jig needed or is ment more for someone like my self new to on-road racing ?
If there would be one up-grade that I should do during build-up what would that up-grade be. What should I look into for servos ,and a Engine ?? I run a M11 radio,and have used OS in the past for my Engines (and have had good luck with them)
Many questions, but let's see if we can give you more insight regarding those...

- Setup jig: Invest on a setup station (Hudy or similar) is vital for the correct handling of the car, meanwhile you get one, for sure on your track someone can borrow their own for some minutes just to setup your car and make it go straight. Invest along on a set of allen wrenches just to assemble it (the complete set you need is: 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0 & 5.0mm) the stock ones are really sh*tty and is a crime try to assemble it with those.

Other wrenches you may find handy are a 7.0mm nut driver and a spring puller - Accept nothing less than the best on wrenches. Your hands and your screws will appreciate it.

- Upgrades during construction: Vital ones are the front CVD's, disregard the instruction book when tells you to install two o-rings on each rear outdrive (will cause suspension binding), pay attention to rear diff assembly, the two outdrives seems identical, but arent.

Other optional parts you may like to use are the blue brake pads along an aftermarket disk brake (look for one that's hollow and perforated - avoid the K-Factory one and similars, because their longitudinal channels 'shave' the brake pads giving you a hell of brake pad wear), another suitable ones are the yellow teflon brake pads those ones gives you a much controllable braking action and is hard to lock the brakes with this, many found them much better than the stock ones, who are very grippy. A yellow or red clutch shoe makes wonders instead the black ones.

Stock setup makes the car really docile and easy to drive. If you plan to go hardcore and put the one-way on the front and run with foams, you may find better to put 30k silicone on your rear diff (tested it up to 50k - awaiting one suitable day to go berserk and try one diff I loaded with 100k). Pay attention to the available front pulleys, if you go with the 24T you need to cut the front tyres to get a 2.5mm split between Fronts and Rears.

Engines: Put whatever you may like it. I drive with Novarossis, other prefeer Sirios, others use the OS... Seems that OS made a great killer, whatever you may like surely will give you lots of performance.

Servos: Go for anything with 8Kg and Digital for the steering, many people prefeer the Futaba 9450/9451 for the steering, for throttle/brake, anything similar could be great, the Futaba 9402 is the same as 9450 but as Analog servo (less battery draw).
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Old 03-04-2006, 07:19 AM   #3673
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Didnt know about the K-Factory Brake disk... I actually chose that specific brand for its design, since it would give me the most braking power above the rest. Do you think that the brake pads wont last a main of heavy late braking if i use that brake disk?


I'd suggest you go with the OS TZ 3port, its by far the most reliable engine that I have owned. And it has no trouble keeping up with the rest on the straight (except maybe a few ZX12s).

For servos, Im currently using Hi-Tec's Torque servos for steering and hi-speed for throttling. I have been racing for about 2 years and only have damaged 1 hi-tec servo (which was about 5 years old).
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Old 03-04-2006, 07:22 AM   #3674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomiRC
Does someone know how can I make my clutch to engage earlier?

Someone in the forum recommend me to reduce the gap of the clutch by adding shims or changing the spring. I did add more shims and I have reduced the clutch gap, but the clutch seems to engage too late still. It engages at 50% or 60% of acceleration. Is it that normal?

Moreover, can someone explain to me about the tire split between fronts and rears? Thanks!!
Clutch gap helps with earlier engagement, but earlier engagement is more affected by spring preload. The nut should be adjusted to about 9mm (measuring from the top of the crankshaft) and work your way from there to your liking... If you dont have anything to measure, do what Corse-R suggested and start reducing the tension 1/4 each time. If your car engages at 50-60% of throttle, means the spring is about 10-11mm. It should engage on about 30%.
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Old 03-04-2006, 09:03 AM   #3675
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Thank you for the reply guys. I will work on what you told me although I think I already did reduce the spring load but may be not enough.
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