To get the inner bearing out, or the outer one, you have to use a propane torch. Remove everything from the engine that you can, and clean off any excess dirt or oil off of the outside. Next, put the motor block in a vice holding the two motor mount tabs on the motor so you don't have to touch it. Next, take a propane torch and heat the area around the outside of the inner bearing all the way around. Make sure to get it good and hot. Heating the case will cause the metal to expand and the bearing to be removable.

Next, some people use a screw driver, but if you heat it enough, you can take the hot motor out of the vice with a thick rag, and bang it on the bench with the bearing facing downwards (so, bang it as if you were banging on the back plate). This should knock the bearing out and you'll be left with a motor ready to take your new bearing.

Of course, heat up the block in the same fashion to get the new bearing in there too.

I've done this about 3 times to engines in the past and it works everytime. Hope this helps!

Mine moved pretty doggone quickly at 196 degrees F. In fact, many of the racers in the A-main at the Paris race that used the 3-port 12tz were running at temps around what I was and had plenty of power. They also made 5 minutes off a tank without an issue. In fact, one guy I met was running his around 185 degrees F and was stupid fast. You just have to break-in the motor right and find its best optimal running temp for peak performance.

Thanks Aphinity,

Problem is, a propane torch isn't exactly something one would find lying around in a common household.
I'd try with the gas stove instead.

Cheers

Couple of Quick question guys, im deciding on a new motor or two.

How long are these motors lasting (gals)? How is the tuning? Are they finiky with certain pipes? Does anyone have a dyno of this motor vs others. No single magazine reviews.

Thanks.

Check here

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/dt_tzt3.asp

AFM

I managed to get the inner bearing out yesterday.
Heated the crankcase over my gas cooking stove up to about 130C then popped the bearing out with a bearing puller. Took just one pop for it to come out.

Thanks for all the help guys...

Now to find a replacement...

i just bought a conrod from rc-toro.com. I saw they also have the bearings for OS 12 TZ.

Thanks. The bearing is actually a common size. 12(ID) X 21(OD) X 5(T)
I can get SKF or NTN replacement. The question is, should I get with 1-sided metal shield or open bearing?

I have FW-05r and im running 12 TZr 5 port and our local race track is not really big.

the layout of the track is attached.

what is the best exaust i can use ?

I strapped mine to my expensive Mugen pipe and it worked very well with it. Tuning mine was not as finicky as tuning the Sirios and Novas that I have had in my MTX-3. I also had no issue with it when I strapped an RB pipe to it when I was breaking it in. Any other pipe, I can't answer that question. The motor was featured in one of the r/c magazines back about 8 months ago. The motor was dynoed a few months back but I can't remember the magazine it which featured the article. The one thing I do remember from the dyno test was that the numbers generated were not that far off from the Max Power .12 (don't know if the Max Power dynoed was the M Fantini version or not).

hi guyz,

can anyone teach me how to break in this engine ( aside from the usual breakin tips).
tnx in advance. . .

http://cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php

try it. its very good

has anyone run the o.s. tz 3 port modified yet if so how did it perform

Thanks Bro, Appreciate it very much. . .

Have any one tried this break in process???

In general, I like to use OS pipe with OS engine. I am using OS 1040 now with TZ 5 ports. I also tried NovaRossi and Skyline V12. The performance of these two are pretty good, but 1040 seems to have better low end power.