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Old 10-24-2005, 01:22 AM   #781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
Guys,

Need some help.
I've got a 5prt TZ with a worn inner bearing. Needs to be replaced coz there's too much freeplay and the crank is rubbing the case.
Any idea how to remove the bearing?
Can I send it back to OS? Anybody here from OS and can give me the South East Asian distributor? Please PM me...

Thanks in advance.

Cheers...
To get the inner bearing out, or the outer one, you have to use a propane torch. Remove everything from the engine that you can, and clean off any excess dirt or oil off of the outside. Next, put the motor block in a vice holding the two motor mount tabs on the motor so you don't have to touch it. Next, take a propane torch and heat the area around the outside of the inner bearing all the way around. Make sure to get it good and hot. Heating the case will cause the metal to expand and the bearing to be removable.

Next, some people use a screw driver, but if you heat it enough, you can take the hot motor out of the vice with a thick rag, and bang it on the bench with the bearing facing downwards (so, bang it as if you were banging on the back plate). This should knock the bearing out and you'll be left with a motor ready to take your new bearing.

Of course, heat up the block in the same fashion to get the new bearing in there too.

I've done this about 3 times to engines in the past and it works everytime. Hope this helps!
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Old 10-24-2005, 10:55 AM   #782
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Originally Posted by mgreen
Secret, can you get 20% or 30% nitro? That's what I run. I would think that 15% wouldn't be enough; but I could be wrong. At 196F, that motor has not had a chance to move yet. 220F, 230F is OK as long as you see smoke coming out of the pipe while your racing. Also, the manual, for the 3 port, says to use the #6 turbo-plug but it's too hot in Texas for that, So I've been using the HPI #7's and my motor has been performing perfect. So I would think the #7 for a 5 port would be OK. I was in Dubai for awhile. It's just like Texas.
Mine moved pretty doggone quickly at 196 degrees F. In fact, many of the racers in the A-main at the Paris race that used the 3-port 12tz were running at temps around what I was and had plenty of power. They also made 5 minutes off a tank without an issue. In fact, one guy I met was running his around 185 degrees F and was stupid fast. You just have to break-in the motor right and find its best optimal running temp for peak performance.
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Old 10-24-2005, 07:03 PM   #783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aphinity
To get the inner bearing out, or the outer one, you have to use a propane torch. Remove everything from the engine that you can, and clean off any excess dirt or oil off of the outside. Next, put the motor block in a vice holding the two motor mount tabs on the motor so you don't have to touch it. Next, take a propane torch and heat the area around the outside of the inner bearing all the way around. Make sure to get it good and hot. Heating the case will cause the metal to expand and the bearing to be removable.

Next, some people use a screw driver, but if you heat it enough, you can take the hot motor out of the vice with a thick rag, and bang it on the bench with the bearing facing downwards (so, bang it as if you were banging on the back plate). This should knock the bearing out and you'll be left with a motor ready to take your new bearing.

Of course, heat up the block in the same fashion to get the new bearing in there too.

I've done this about 3 times to engines in the past and it works everytime. Hope this helps!
Thanks Aphinity,

Problem is, a propane torch isn't exactly something one would find lying around in a common household.
I'd try with the gas stove instead.

Cheers
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Old 10-25-2005, 06:04 AM   #784
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Couple of Quick question guys, im deciding on a new motor or two.

How long are these motors lasting (gals)? How is the tuning? Are they finiky with certain pipes? Does anyone have a dyno of this motor vs others. No single magazine reviews.

Thanks.
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Old 10-25-2005, 06:31 AM   #785
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Does anyone have a dyno of this motor vs others. No single magazine reviews.

Thanks.
Check here

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/dt_tzt3.asp

AFM
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Old 10-25-2005, 06:48 PM   #786
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I managed to get the inner bearing out yesterday.
Heated the crankcase over my gas cooking stove up to about 130C then popped the bearing out with a bearing puller. Took just one pop for it to come out.

Thanks for all the help guys...

Now to find a replacement...
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Old 10-25-2005, 10:08 PM   #787
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i just bought a conrod from rc-toro.com. I saw they also have the bearings for OS 12 TZ.
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Old 10-26-2005, 03:42 AM   #788
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Originally Posted by silverM3
i just bought a conrod from rc-toro.com. I saw they also have the bearings for OS 12 TZ.
Thanks. The bearing is actually a common size. 12(ID) X 21(OD) X 5(T)
I can get SKF or NTN replacement. The question is, should I get with 1-sided metal shield or open bearing?
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Old 10-26-2005, 04:31 AM   #789
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I have FW-05r and im running 12 TZr 5 port and our local race track is not really big.

the layout of the track is attached.

what is the best exaust i can use ?
Attached Thumbnails
OS 12 TzR-cource.gif  
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:09 AM   #790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Couple of Quick question guys, im deciding on a new motor or two.

How long are these motors lasting (gals)? How is the tuning? Are they finiky with certain pipes? Does anyone have a dyno of this motor vs others. No single magazine reviews.

Thanks.
I strapped mine to my expensive Mugen pipe and it worked very well with it. Tuning mine was not as finicky as tuning the Sirios and Novas that I have had in my MTX-3. I also had no issue with it when I strapped an RB pipe to it when I was breaking it in. Any other pipe, I can't answer that question. The motor was featured in one of the r/c magazines back about 8 months ago. The motor was dynoed a few months back but I can't remember the magazine it which featured the article. The one thing I do remember from the dyno test was that the numbers generated were not that far off from the Max Power .12 (don't know if the Max Power dynoed was the M Fantini version or not).
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Old 10-26-2005, 03:11 PM   #791
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hi guyz,

can anyone teach me how to break in this engine ( aside from the usual breakin tips).
tnx in advance. . .
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Old 10-26-2005, 03:22 PM   #792
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http://cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php

try it. its very good
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Old 10-26-2005, 05:45 PM   #793
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has anyone run the o.s. tz 3 port modified yet if so how did it perform
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Old 10-26-2005, 06:15 PM   #794
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mr. Secret_Weapon
try it. its very good
Thanks Bro, Appreciate it very much. . .

Have any one tried this break in process???
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Last edited by Chaya; 10-26-2005 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:36 PM   #795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Secret_weapon
I have FW-05r and im running 12 TZr 5 port and our local race track is not really big.

the layout of the track is attached.

what is the best exaust i can use ?
In general, I like to use OS pipe with OS engine. I am using OS 1040 now with TZ 5 ports. I also tried NovaRossi and Skyline V12. The performance of these two are pretty good, but 1040 seems to have better low end power.
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