1089LikesTeam Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
03-24-2020, 06:21 PM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.   Features: Easy-access gear differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Steel chassis weight Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis   Features: Easy-access ball differential Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance 3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage +1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment Lightweight aluminum top shaft Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag) JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for both cars: Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades: Parts List: Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.): 
|
05-23-2018, 07:06 AM
#1186
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Just bought my b6.1d and I'm wondering about the rear shock positions...I see older versions of the B6 the rear shocks are mounted on the rear of the shock tower...can you mounted the rear shocks on the new B6.1D on the rear as well? More rear weight for low traction. Easier to work on the shocks too. Anyone do this yet?
05-23-2018, 07:08 AM
#1187
Lets start a discussion on gearing and the newer generation of motors. I got into buggies this past winter with the club racer and was running the locked timing Reedy 17.5 and the 72/33 gears the motor never came close to getting hot. Got a new 6.1D and a new motor from Amain I believe it is their brand https://www.amainhobbies.com/ecopowe...p-8000/p360110 and the HW Xerun V3.1 stock spec ESC and started my gearing where I was on the club racer 72/33 one of the other guys there had his new 6.1D and was running a 69/29 I ran 2 heats with fist set and the 3rd heat and main with the 69/29 the smaller set seemed smoother to me but didn't have the snap and top end the larger set had. and the motor never got over 115 degrees. One day last week I seen a video on Jconcepts FB page with the guy from Shurr speed motors and HW talking how they were just at some race and how the guys were charging the batteries normally, motor timing around 45 and gearing with 72-75 spurs and I think if I remember correctly around say 25-26 pinions and getting the same speeds as the old gearing methods because of the newer motors are so much different than the older ones. I race in Ohio at The Ohio RC Factory in Jeffersonville, and EN hobbies in Columbus, both nice indoor med to high bite tracks, and I would guess both are a little larger than what I have seen on some of the indoor tracks from the west coast just guessing. What track sizes do some of you race on and what gearing is used?
I run at n.w. hobbies it's very high grip they just had the jconcepts carpet nats. Anyways I always use a 72 spur gear and then 27-32 pinion based on the size of the straight. I do agree the newer motors like to rev more I'm using a fantom v3 rpm motor.
05-23-2018, 09:27 AM
#1188
Braxamus,
The newest generation of motors have a higher kv (rpm per volt), so gearing them down works out because you get better acceleration which is important for circuit racing.
Ultimately what gives you the best lap times is what you need to worry about. Don't worry about other people.
That motor you bought is really a step sideways from the locked timing Reedy you had. Yes it has adjustable timing, but if the Reedy is geared correctly it would be just as fast as that Ecopower motor. So use the Ecopower to learn how timing adjustments interact with gearing, but don't expect that ecopower motor to be magically way faster.
The motor is one area where you want to spend a little. A new generation base model motor will be way faster than that Ecopower or the Reedy. That said, if you can't run an entire race without crashing a faster motor will just mean your car is going a little bit faster as you crash.
The newest generation of motors have a higher kv (rpm per volt), so gearing them down works out because you get better acceleration which is important for circuit racing.
Ultimately what gives you the best lap times is what you need to worry about. Don't worry about other people.
That motor you bought is really a step sideways from the locked timing Reedy you had. Yes it has adjustable timing, but if the Reedy is geared correctly it would be just as fast as that Ecopower motor. So use the Ecopower to learn how timing adjustments interact with gearing, but don't expect that ecopower motor to be magically way faster.
The motor is one area where you want to spend a little. A new generation base model motor will be way faster than that Ecopower or the Reedy. That said, if you can't run an entire race without crashing a faster motor will just mean your car is going a little bit faster as you crash.
05-23-2018, 09:59 AM
#1189
Yea I understand that motor is by far no top of the line speed demon, but at the time with getting the new 6.1D new ESC and servo that motor fit with what I had and it did get good reviews for what it is. I have only raced buggy a total of 7 times so far and being an older guy 50+ my reactions are not what they used to be, so a slower motor for now just kind of fits, and I am still learning all the gearing, motor timing and setup. Coming from racing dirt oval sprint cars and late models to off road racing SCT the buggy is just a different beast I am enjoying. I like to ask several questions and get different opinions and take from them what makes sense to me, because as we all know in this or any other form of racing there are a unlimited amount of opinions on how to peel an apple so to speak. I actually slowed the throttle down on my SCT and got faster because I wasn't wreaking as much, and the buggy is so nice to drive I am a little faster in it, so it is a learning process and if you don't ask questions and have people willing to give straight answers it's a long process. (Not saying you wasn't giving a straight answer because what you said makes plenty of sense)
05-23-2018, 11:01 AM
#1190
[QUOTE=Braxamus;15233216.... being an older guy 50+ my reactions are not what they used to be, so a slower motor for now just kind of fits, and I am still learning all the gearing, motor timing and setup.[/QUOTE]
Same generation here..... if you are not fast, work on your consistency. No crashing for 5 minutes and consistent times..... when you get consistent lap times...try to start pushing yourself and the car. It works for me.
I would qualify last in the main and end up mid pack or sometimes in the podium because some of the fast guys crash and are not consistent.
Same generation here..... if you are not fast, work on your consistency. No crashing for 5 minutes and consistent times..... when you get consistent lap times...try to start pushing yourself and the car. It works for me.
I would qualify last in the main and end up mid pack or sometimes in the podium because some of the fast guys crash and are not consistent.
05-24-2018, 01:23 AM
#1191
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (4)
Lets start a discussion on gearing and the newer generation of motors. I got into buggies this past winter with the club racer and was running the locked timing Reedy 17.5 and the 72/33 gears the motor never came close to getting hot. Got a new 6.1D and a new motor from Amain I believe it is their brand https://www.amainhobbies.com/ecopowe...p-8000/p360110 and the HW Xerun V3.1 stock spec ESC and started my gearing where I was on the club racer 72/33 one of the other guys there had his new 6.1D and was running a 69/29 I ran 2 heats with first set and the 3rd heat and main with the 69/29 the smaller set seemed smoother to me but didn't have the snap and top end the larger set had. and the motor never got over 115 degrees. One day last week I seen a video on Jconcepts FB page with the guy from Shurr speed motors and HW talking how they were just at some race and how the guys were charging the batteries normally, motor timing around 45 and gearing with 72-75 spurs and I think if I remember correctly around say 25-26 pinions and getting the same speeds as the old gearing methods because of the newer motors are so much different than the older ones. I race in Ohio at The Ohio RC Factory in Jeffersonville, and EN hobbies in Columbus, both nice indoor med to high bite tracks, and I would guess both are a little larger than what I have seen on some of the indoor tracks from the west coast just guessing. What track sizes do some of you race on and what gearing is used? And so far I really like this motor.
05-24-2018, 01:11 PM
#1192
I have a Reedy S-Plus 17.5T in my B6.1d geared to 27/72 with 24deg timing. Thing is running cool that way on indoor clay and is pretty damn fast. I don't know where it compares to the Fantom V3r but it was in the SDRC hobby shop and seemed popular. Faster than I needed. Went from a HW Justock g2 17.5T and it is a different world and weighs like 30g less.
It is not helping me right now though.. I drove like balls at our club race last night.
It is not helping me right now though.. I drove like balls at our club race last night.
05-24-2018, 03:15 PM
#1193
I have a Reedy S-Plus 17.5T in my B6.1d geared to 27/72 with 24deg timing. Thing is running cool that way on indoor clay and is pretty damn fast. I don't know where it compares to the Fantom V3r but it was in the SDRC hobby shop and seemed popular. Faster than I needed. Went from a HW Justock g2 17.5T and it is a different world and weighs like 30g less.
It is not helping me right now though.. I drove like balls at our club race last night.
It is not helping me right now though.. I drove like balls at our club race last night.
05-24-2018, 04:20 PM
#1194
Thank you and that is what I was told for our track for the s-plus, but I don't need anymore speed right now. The torque is good, but if I go any faster.. that is just faster into the pipe. I got a bit confident on the last layout at SDRC but this new one is taking me a bit longer to get consistent on. I even nailed pauly the pole with my 22T last night.. though I wasn't the only one a few others hit it too in different classes. I saw many broken cars at JBRL/SDRC on saturday, the thing is evil if you hit it. I have managed to keep my B6.1d away from it.
05-24-2018, 07:03 PM
#1195
Tech Apprentice
05-24-2018, 07:10 PM
#1196
Tech Apprentice
05-25-2018, 10:29 AM
#1197
Tech Apprentice
I am ready to build my B6.1D kit and i am going to run strictly on these type of tracks
1. Outdoor, medium size, loose, low grip, dry, dusty and bumpy
2. Outdoor, small size, big jumps, hardpack, dry/damp, medium grip, dusty, bumpy
No indoor high bite clay, no carpet or turf
I need suggestions on what options are a MUST in terms of performance and or handling wise?
Any suggestions given are greatly appreciated
1. Outdoor, medium size, loose, low grip, dry, dusty and bumpy
2. Outdoor, small size, big jumps, hardpack, dry/damp, medium grip, dusty, bumpy
No indoor high bite clay, no carpet or turf
I need suggestions on what options are a MUST in terms of performance and or handling wise?
Any suggestions given are greatly appreciated
05-25-2018, 10:38 AM
#1198
I am ready to build my B6.1D kit and i am going to run strictly on these type of tracks
1. Outdoor, medium size, loose, low grip, dry, dusty and bumpy
2. Outdoor, small size, big jumps, hardpack, dry/damp, medium grip, dusty, bumpy
No indoor high bite clay, no carpet or turf
I need suggestions on what options are a MUST in terms of performance and or handling wise?
Any suggestions given are greatly appreciated
1. Outdoor, medium size, loose, low grip, dry, dusty and bumpy
2. Outdoor, small size, big jumps, hardpack, dry/damp, medium grip, dusty, bumpy
No indoor high bite clay, no carpet or turf
I need suggestions on what options are a MUST in terms of performance and or handling wise?
Any suggestions given are greatly appreciated
You'll probably need to get more weight over the rear axle, but how you do that is up to you. The standup transmission would work well, but so would the C and D blocks in brass.
05-25-2018, 10:39 AM
#1199
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
I am ready to build my B6.1D kit and i am going to run strictly on these type of tracks
1. Outdoor, medium size, loose, low grip, dry, dusty and bumpy
2. Outdoor, small size, big jumps, hardpack, dry/damp, medium grip, dusty, bumpy
No indoor high bite clay, no carpet or turf
I need suggestions on what options are a MUST in terms of performance and or handling wise?
Any suggestions given are greatly appreciated
1. Outdoor, medium size, loose, low grip, dry, dusty and bumpy
2. Outdoor, small size, big jumps, hardpack, dry/damp, medium grip, dusty, bumpy
No indoor high bite clay, no carpet or turf
I need suggestions on what options are a MUST in terms of performance and or handling wise?
Any suggestions given are greatly appreciated
05-25-2018, 10:49 AM
#1200
To donnie_p's question, is the 4-gear standup an option any longer on the 6.1? It was on the 6, but that ship may have sailed.
I will disagree with adding weight in the rear. I think that has always been more about ft/rr balance than adding grip (we've argued that point, too..) and in this case, it's just as likely to create a pendulum effect on the loose surface. Guys are running full laydown successfully on decidedly medium grip these days, after all.
I would also steer clear of efforts to lighten the drive-line. A little flywheel effect is probably not a bad thing, and also counteracts the questionable need for adding weight in the back.
Finally, I'd explore softer suspension to slow down the car's reactions.
I will disagree with adding weight in the rear. I think that has always been more about ft/rr balance than adding grip (we've argued that point, too..) and in this case, it's just as likely to create a pendulum effect on the loose surface. Guys are running full laydown successfully on decidedly medium grip these days, after all.
I would also steer clear of efforts to lighten the drive-line. A little flywheel effect is probably not a bad thing, and also counteracts the questionable need for adding weight in the back.
Finally, I'd explore softer suspension to slow down the car's reactions.