Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread >

Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree1089Likes

Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-24-2020, 06:21 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6.1 & B6.1D thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Kraig
Welcome to the B6.1 and B6.1D Wiki page.





Features:

Easy-access gear differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Laydown Stealth(r) transmission for lower and forward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, standard height
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
Front and rear anti-roll bars limit chassis roll for increased corner speed
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Steel chassis weight
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis






Features:

Easy-access ball differential
Differential height adjustment with 0, 1, 2, and 3mm inserts included
New slipper assembly for better weight balance and shock clearance
3-gear Lay Back Stealth(r) transmission for lower and rearward CG
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite front shock tower with tower guard
Heavy-duty V2 routed graphite rear tower, long
Heavy-duty V2 rear axle with 67mm bones
V2 springs for a more reactive and nimble feel
Innovative rear arm with molded inserts for ultra-fine lower shock mount adjustment
Molded spur gear guard to help protect body from damage
+1 steering block arms optimize feel on dirt tracks
Battery strap allows the use of optional turnbuckle-based braces
Machined pistons included for better fit and smoother operation
Aluminum rear clamping hex and front axle with laser etching
Rear hubs feature large bearings and the easy-insert system to adjust camber link position and rear axle height
One-piece shock bushing to make assembly easier
Aluminum C and D arm mounts included for large range of anti-squat and toe adjustment
Lightweight aluminum top shaft
Factory Team upgraded ball bearing kit included (now oiled instead of greased for less drag)
JConcepts(r) B6 clear body and wing included
Shortened, 7075 aluminum chassis


Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for both cars:
Piston Drills:
Aftermarket Upgrades:

Parts List:

Reference Guides (courtesy of Ray Munday and Roger M.):

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-25-2018, 11:57 AM
  #1201  
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,118
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

From what I read you can still use the old B6 4 gear, but you would need the B6 shock tower and the inner camber mount to make it a complete assembly,
bobf24 is offline  
Old 05-25-2018, 07:58 PM
  #1202  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 77
Default

Originally Posted by Krio
Mod or stock class?

You'll probably need to get more weight over the rear axle, but how you do that is up to you. The standup transmission would work well, but so would the C and D blocks in brass.
Sorry forgot to mentioned on what class i'll be running
There is only one class that we race here which is a hand out 19T brushed motor (with a juststock ESC) and i don't have any idea where it falls on brushless motor
Some people say it falls between 13.5 and 17.5 but some say it falls around 10.5T brushless
Anyone have any idea about this?
donnie_p is offline  
Old 05-25-2018, 08:14 PM
  #1203  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 77
Default

Originally Posted by Scott R
Stand up gearbox, and brass c and d mount for tuning options
Thanks Scott
Is the new lay back generate more grip or the lay down does?
donnie_p is offline  
Old 05-25-2018, 08:22 PM
  #1204  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 77
Default

Originally Posted by Davidka
To donnie_p's question, is the 4-gear standup an option any longer on the 6.1? It was on the 6, but that ship may have sailed.

I will disagree with adding weight in the rear. I think that has always been more about ft/rr balance than adding grip (we've argued that point, too..) and in this case, it's just as likely to create a pendulum effect on the loose surface. Guys are running full laydown successfully on decidedly medium grip these days, after all.

I would also steer clear of efforts to lighten the drive-line. A little flywheel effect is probably not a bad thing, and also counteracts the questionable need for adding weight in the back.

Finally, I'd explore softer suspension to slow down the car's reactions.
What you said make sense to me
Lightened up the front end would give the effect as adding a rear weight although it may not as much. Is that what you mean? or I got it wrong?
donnie_p is offline  
Old 05-25-2018, 11:17 PM
  #1205  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 4,596
Trader Rating: 166 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by gswart44
Anyone running Yokomo (Orange) springs for both front and rear on their B6.1D, for high-bite indoor dirt/clay? Was thinking they might be about the same as a AE white (front) green (rear) combo, but maybe a little more progressive.

Any insight is appreciated!
I run them rear only. Locked it in a bit more then kit. I like the change they made over stock. These are the Racing Performer Orange rears. So more linear then the standard Orange.
jpcopeland1 is offline  
Old 05-25-2018, 11:20 PM
  #1206  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 4,596
Trader Rating: 166 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Davidka
To donnie_p's question, is the 4-gear standup an option any longer on the 6.1? It was on the 6, but that ship may have sailed.

I will disagree with adding weight in the rear. I think that has always been more about ft/rr balance than adding grip (we've argued that point, too..) and in this case, it's just as likely to create a pendulum effect on the loose surface. Guys are running full laydown successfully on decidedly medium grip these days, after all.

I would also steer clear of efforts to lighten the drive-line. A little flywheel effect is probably not a bad thing, and also counteracts the questionable need for adding weight in the back.

Finally, I'd explore softer suspension to slow down the car's reactions.
I agree with everything that was just said here. Although the track I usually run on is high bite when maintained, on race nights it can get blown out and super dusty. I only really lightened up the suspension to compensate the severe loss of overall grip. I also of course turned down my motor to limit wheel spin. I would never add a puck system to a car on a dusty blown out track. It can be done. Just gotta take the time to tune. Would also add I went to softer V1 springs for the night over the new V2's. The progressiveness of those springs didn't feel quite right on a dusty blown out clay track, and it was super blown out this time.
jpcopeland1 is offline  
Old 05-25-2018, 11:24 PM
  #1207  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vancouver, Washington
Posts: 4,596
Trader Rating: 166 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by donnie_p
What you said make sense to me
Lightened up the front end would give the effect as adding a rear weight although it may not as much. Is that what you mean? or I got it wrong?
You need to allow the car to transfer weight to the rear end. I accomplished this with V1 springs, and lighter shock oils all the way around. I think I ended up at 27.5 front, 25 rear with white V1 fronts, and green V2 rears. Probably could have gone all the way down to black rears, but it was good enough to get through a 7 minute main reasonably well.
jpcopeland1 is offline  
Old 05-27-2018, 11:47 AM
  #1208  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ogden,UT
Posts: 300
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Has there been issues with the diff catching inside the trans case? I haven’t had time to read through everything to see if it’s been brought up yet. I just built my B6.1 and everything spins freely with the diff out. But when I install the diff it starts to bind up. Its in about two spots. I think it may be the diff screw heads?, but not sure. Issue with the idler gear teeth? I’ve pulled the diff out several times and flipped it around trying to find where it’s catching. But I cannot find anything. Any help or suggestions?
RacingCraze21 is offline  
Old 05-27-2018, 02:05 PM
  #1209  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 208
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RacingCraze21
Has there been issues with the diff catching inside the trans case? I haven’t had time to read through everything to see if it’s been brought up yet. I just built my B6.1 and everything spins freely with the diff out. But when I install the diff it starts to bind up. Its in about two spots. I think it may be the diff screw heads?, but not sure. Issue with the idler gear teeth? I’ve pulled the diff out several times and flipped it around trying to find where it’s catching. But I cannot find anything. Any help or suggestions?
Check the screws coming from underneath the trans case. Possibly too long where the screw pushed some of the plastic into the case where the diff would then not spin freely.
motoman811 is offline  
Old 05-27-2018, 02:33 PM
  #1210  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ogden,UT
Posts: 300
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by motoman811
Check the screws coming from underneath the trans case. Possibly too long where the screw pushed some of the plastic into the case where the diff would then not spin freely.
thanks I’ll give it a look!
RacingCraze21 is offline  
Old 05-27-2018, 06:13 PM
  #1211  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 114
Default

Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
I run them rear only. Locked it in a bit more then kit. I like the change they made over stock. These are the Racing Performer Orange rears. So more linear then the standard Orange.
Okay, cool. Yeah, I've been hearing good things about the Racing Performer series orange springs...will give those a try in the rear. Thanks man!
gswart44 is offline  
Old 05-27-2018, 07:06 PM
  #1212  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
ray_munday's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 2,811
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by donnie_p
I am ready to build my B6.1D kit and i am going to run strictly on these type of tracks
1. Outdoor, medium size, loose, low grip, dry, dusty and bumpy
2. Outdoor, small size, big jumps, hardpack, dry/damp, medium grip, dusty, bumpy
No indoor high bite clay, no carpet or turf

I need suggestions on what options are a MUST in terms of performance and or handling wise?
Any suggestions given are greatly appreciated
Here in Australia we are almost all outdoors. Ive tested the layback and with brass C/D blocks and shocks rear it can work in lower grip, but is harder to drive than standup especially in dusty / bumpy conditions.
Some good advice already given, I would recommend:
- standup transmission (there is a 3 gear option for the B6.1D which needs a new topshaft and motor plate (the gear cover comes in the kit). You can also drop a B6D 4 gear on, but you need the B6 rear camber plate, shock tower, layshaft etc.
- brass C block - even with standup we use to help with forward bite in bumpy / dusty tracks. Brass D as well if you run layback. For faster / flowing / higher grip take the brass C out.
- V1 springs seem to generate more grip in lower traction / bumpy conditions, but don't land as well. I run green front / black rear in low grip, white / green as grip comes up a bit or the track is faster.
- for durability, I recommend the alloy servo horn.

Standup typical setup:
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...andup4gear.pdf

Layback setup:
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...kShockRear.pdf

Ray
Big_Show likes this.

Last edited by ray_munday; 05-28-2018 at 05:19 PM.
ray_munday is offline  
Old 05-28-2018, 07:05 AM
  #1213  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
carbon madness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Northwestern, Indiana
Posts: 677
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

For running on indoor clay should I use the 6.1 or the 6.1d? The track we run slicks on, and cars can traction roll. I am getting both kits, and would run the ball diff regardless for the track. I am just trying to figure out what rear end package to use (I don't have the electronics at the moment to just set-up both cars). I am thinking I will just start with the "carpet" car
carbon madness is offline  
Old 05-28-2018, 10:18 AM
  #1214  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
 
Braxamus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 789
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

6.1D = dirt 6.1 = carpet
Braxamus is offline  
Old 05-28-2018, 10:31 AM
  #1215  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 2,907
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by carbon madness
For running on indoor clay should I use the 6.1 or the 6.1d? The track we run slicks on, and cars can traction roll. I am getting both kits, and would run the ball diff regardless for the track. I am just trying to figure out what rear end package to use (I don't have the electronics at the moment to just set-up both cars). I am thinking I will just start with the "carpet" car
get the 6.1D and build it with a laydown transmission.
Phillip F is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.