That 9886 pipe does magical things - 2 chamber blah blah blah.

You'll also get told to run an 8mm insert...it'll get 5 minutes of runtime too, haha.

That said - I'd try at least a 6.5 or 7.0, and see what kind of mileage you can get.

I haven't tried it - but a buddy told me if I ever run a P5 based motor to buy and run this crank:

http://novarossidirect.com/15006_p_2167.html

N21-3T crankshaft?
If you want milage then go your way. But kep in mind you will loose lots of power.

Not really wanting to get inside the motor.... That's why my original question was just about headers only... If I wanted to break the motor down, I would just get a new one and be done with it. Too much headaches and too many things to go wrong when frankenstiening mills. Im pretty sure engine manufacturers do their home work on their motors. Ill leave that to them and reap the benefits...

I ran the 7mm insert and 2096/021 combo for a while in my truggy and it completely killed the top end. Ended up going to 9853/001 with the 8mm insert and it was a completely different engine.

If all you want to do is swap headers maybe try the 41001, 41032, or 41019. The 41021 is smooth, but a lot more tame than the square headers.

Try 2058 pipe, no matter what crank you use, it still uses the same sleeve which the porting is same so it wont make much difference unless you send it for mod then u will see something noticeable difference.

Does a ceramic bearing make so much difference to standard steel balls?

Does a silicone filled + tungsten balanced crank make much difference?

Anybody use the 41031? I understand it's a short conical header, but not quite as short as the 41032. I'm just wondering how the 41031 performs?

I've never ran it but the 41031 is basically the conical version of the 41021 and is supposed to have a little more bottom end.

Same thing with the 41032, its a conical version of the short 41019 square header. Makes a lot of power especially with a 9853 or 9886 and probably best for a high bite track or in truggy.

I run the Mito 4, 41031 conical with 2096, does not lack low or high end, as compared alongside other race engines. I think it is an upgrade over the 41021 on which it is based and worth running...

The square manifolds make quite a bit more power and RPM then do the curved manifolds...41032 smashes the 41033 just the same as a 41019 smashes a 41021........... 9853/9886 will substantially outperform the 2096 , and there will be no issue with run time, in fact the 9886 combo may even get better runtime considering your capped out looking for more top.... These 2 chamber pipes used to be the go to pipe till EFFRA forced a 3 chamber rule 10 years ago.........the rule was enacted because EFFRA wanted to slow the engines down and make every quieter.. Bad news is the 3 chamber pipes reduce power more effectively then they reduce noise......so basically racers everywhere are now running pipes thats primary purpose is to slow the engines down and reduce noise instead of pipes developed for performance and efficiency........ And no you don't increase mileage in a engine by choking off its exhaust so throw that concept out the window......

Thanks Neil.

Any time !

Also that Mizer insert will give you top end right comparable to a 7.5 mm insert but with better mileage...going to a 8 mm insert will increase top end but you will lose some mileage

Any reason to run the aluminum carb inserts over the plastic ones?

I can't find a 7.5mm alum insert. Any ideas as to where I can find one if alum is better?

What gaskets goes between the manifold and pipe (.21 offroad)? I can't find any info on that.

Thanks.

The same as what goes on the back of the motor.

not unless its one of those Novas that uses the red seal for the exhaust, those are different, you need the blue exhaust seal from Nova or any other 21 exhaust seal..