Thanks.

Hey guys, would a 12 tooth pinion be okay to run? My JP takes forever to get into its power band. I started with a 14t, then went down to a 13t today. The 13 is pretty good but I need to go down another tooth I believe, just checking first as I know most run 13 or 14t. Thank you!

Go down with your center diff gear.

The engine will then take even longer to accelerate, and have more top speed. If you want to change the center diff gear (Spur gear) then make it bigger.

Yes exactly. Actually that's precisely what I was thinking too, to change the spur gear as well (more teeth for more accel.) Thanks for the confirm guys!

Before you start jumping gears what is the engines setup ? what pipe, what manifold, what clutch and fuel ? and if a Buku clutch are the shoes staggered ? chances are the issue is with your setup and there should be no need to gear down like that..

I have a BTTE that lost compression this weekend. Does anyone know were to send it to get rebuilt? Is it even worth rebuilding?

Most modern engine have the minimum torque, might be tuning issue or pipe/manifold. Since have to gear down so much, better check on the tune

MP9 TKI 3
5/7/2 diffs
40/35 blue/orange shocks
TNS .21 JP Dirt 8mm restrictor
46/13 spur/bell
Orion 2058 pipe
BUKU komposite speed tune clutch- factory stagger
Bones 30/8
O'donnell V2 267T plug (med/hot)

Id be surprised if I had to gear down like that too (12t), why I'm scratchin my head... I think the 48 tooth spur will do the trick to be honest but I dont have 30 bux lyin around atm. Guys say to make sure to gear a JP properly so it gets into the meat of its powerband. Made sense, now I'm seeing first hand what they were talkin about. The engine has TONS of power everywhere, its fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinally starting to loosen all the way up. A little over 2.5 gallons it took. The mid and top is excellent. The bottom end is a pain to deal with. I can tune the LSN to where I want it with sick bottom end from full to half tank, but then starts getting too lean for the bottom half so that approach is bunk. If I tune it the way it should be, then its too rich on bottom from full to half tank. Its like a lose/lose in that sense. Gearing down though has made the most significant difference as a step closer to what Im trying to achieve. Thanks for helping Neal! by the way, when on the leaner side, I can barely drive the buggy the engine is so stupid fast, wish you could see it! It feels like I'm running 40% no joke

take the stagger out of the clutch, end of story

I found the factory setup on the Buku to stall too low, which creates a lag (the shoes engage too early and don't allow the engine to accelerate smoothly).

Imo the stagger is good, but you need to make sure you don't have it set up so that the first 1 or 2 shoes engage early enough to create that lag. Try turning screw 0 in by 1 turn and screw 1 in by half a turn and see what happens.

Anyone try this all conditions plug? A little expensive compare to c6

id like to try it, but cant find it for sale anywhere,

stagger is good if your looking to bleed off bottom end power, as a staggered clutch just behaves like a slipper......The more stagger you have the more power is bled off.. Marks engine is tuned to be top end oriented right from the factory so the last thing it will need is a stagger in the clutch...That engine is going to need all the help it can get down low and adding a stagger to the clutch is only going to further exasperate the issue...the best thing he can do is set all 3 shoes equal with a proper clutch stall, the performance down low will be much better then with any sort of stagger.

Thanks for the clarification