NOVAROSSI Engine thread....
#7997
I hear ya, thing is if you remember I told you I dont have phone service. Its got a rear hard coated, balanced and filled crank, a precisely hand matched p/s as well as being tuned (get wat ya pay for). Its surely beyond an XLT. It would eat an XLT for breakfast. Just wish it was a little more aggressive down low- if it was it would be unbeatable. By the way I tried the 41001 today with equal tension and I definitely liked it. Only dam thing is the narrow header runs the pipe against the fuel tank burning into the tank so looks like no 41001....
Have you tried the 41020? Id love to try the 41031 but its narrow so i'm afraid it would align the pipe against the tank too- ridiculous if you ask me that they cant make sure their headers all fit most cars and align the pipe far enough away from the fuel tank.... rant over. Anyway, that would be next on the list 
Have you tried the 41020? Id love to try the 41031 but its narrow so i'm afraid it would align the pipe against the tank too- ridiculous if you ask me that they cant make sure their headers all fit most cars and align the pipe far enough away from the fuel tank.... rant over. Anyway, that would be next on the list 
Sadly the crank was not hard coated nor was it balanced with Tungsten, it is essentially the same crank as a P5....The engine is like a P5XLT but with a MES style exhaust......On the very top end it would outrun the XLT, but down low and in the midrange my money would be on the XLT , no shame in this as the modified XLT is a absolute monster... IMO from here I would looking to go to a more aggressive clutch and trying a different header pipe combo.....I believe the engine is really designed to be a Buggy engine for use on open Euro style tracks....based off its timing profiles and exhaust to intake port volumes its going to be very top end oriented so I would be looking a longer manifold and a more torque oriented tuned pipe, a aluminum clutch would also help some as well....
edit.... If you wanted to to cover the shipping I would be willing to take that engine and test it on the dyno and see what pipe/header gives the best powercurve........shipping is $45 back/forth for DHL next day........
Last edited by Maximo; 07-17-2015 at 06:36 AM.
#7999
I've never run the p5 nor do I know the differences however I do run one of the tns modified elite 5 engines in my truggy and for me it does it all. Tons of low end grunt and is still pulling hard at the end of the straight. Awesome motor.
#8000
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,121
I have one as a back up, and have only finished breaking it in after getting it lapped. I have a Keep-off 4S that is my main motor. However, I will be racing today with the Elite 5 to get a good idea on how it runs.
#8001
Sadly the crank was not hard coated nor was it balanced with Tungsten, it is essentially the same crank as a P5....The engine is like a P5XLT but with a MES style exhaust......On the very top end it would outrun the XLT, but down low and in the midrange my money would be on the XLT , no shame in this as the modified XLT is a absolute monster... IMO from here I would looking to go to a more aggressive clutch and trying a different header pipe combo.....I believe the engine is really designed to be a Buggy engine for use on open Euro style tracks....based off its timing profiles and exhaust to intake port volumes its going to be very top end oriented so I would be looking a longer manifold and a more torque oriented tuned pipe, a aluminum clutch would also help some as well....
edit.... If you wanted to to cover the shipping I would be willing to take that engine and test it on the dyno and see what pipe/header gives the best powercurve........shipping is $45 back/forth for DHL next day........
edit.... If you wanted to to cover the shipping I would be willing to take that engine and test it on the dyno and see what pipe/header gives the best powercurve........shipping is $45 back/forth for DHL next day........
wat do ya think?
Last edited by sn47som1; 07-18-2015 at 06:19 PM.
#8002
hmmmm... Im baffled. What would you call the crank then in this picture? Like I said before rear hard coated, balanced and filled. Correct me if Im wrong but truly my eyes don't deceive me so you'll have to explain. You say a long header now?? Thats what I always figured with this engine but you suggested a 41001 for the bottom/rpm. I mentioned the 41020 as an option but ain't made of dinero. You know I run an aluminum clutch with a pretty aggressive stall now with equal tension. I am happy with the 9886/41001 except this combo the pipe rests on the fuel tank its ridiculous. So a good suggestion that replicates the 41001 that fits better I'm all ears. I love this engine but its not suited for the tracks I run on unless I gear down to 48/13. I've got eyes on the new Triton RC engines next and will be sending one to you
wat do ya think?
wat do ya think?Well then..... she is indeed balanced...not sure why I thought she wasn't but you got me on that one
on me ......And i guess it is black oxide coating on the crankface so it is hardcoated, but it is strictly a cosmetic treatment and would offer no performance advantages like a DLC coated crank which some of the JP's apparently had...Anyways what is stock gearing on your truggy ? and what truggy is it ?
And I thought you were running a buku with stock spring stagger settings....did you change that ?
If you are running a Buku composite with stock stagger settings in a Truggy that is geared up a tooth over stock the bottom end is going to be lacking...just gearing a truggy up a tooth has a big effect on it, adding in a staggered composite clutch and its really going to labor..
As for the pipes... the longer manifold will likely give you better low RPM performance, but at some cost to your top end...right now your looking for more bottom end so I am going to suggest you go to a longer manifold.....However if you are indeed geared up a extra tooth then I am going to tell you to hold off on any pipe changes and put your car back to stock gearing...also what size carb insert are you running in it ?
#8003
hmmmm... Im baffled. What would you call the crank then in this picture? Like I said before rear hard coated, balanced and filled. Correct me if Im wrong but truly my eyes don't deceive me so you'll have to explain. You say a long header now?? Thats what I always figured with this engine but you suggested a 41001 for the bottom/rpm. I mentioned the 41020 as an option but ain't made of dinero. You know I run an aluminum clutch with a pretty aggressive stall now with equal tension. I am happy with the 9886/41001 except this combo the pipe rests on the fuel tank its ridiculous. So a good suggestion that replicates the 41001 that fits better I'm all ears. I love this engine but its not suited for the tracks I run on unless I gear down to 48/13. I've got eyes on the new Triton RC engines next and will be sending one to you
wat do ya think?
wat do ya think?
#8004
Well then..... she is indeed balanced...not sure why I thought she wasn't but you got me on that one
on me ......And i guess it is black oxide coating on the crankface so it is hardcoated, but it is strictly a cosmetic treatment and would offer no performance advantages like a DLC coated crank which some of the JP's apparently had...
Anyways what is stock gearing on your truggy ? and what truggy is it ?
And I thought you were running a buku with stock spring stagger settings....did you change that ?
If you are running a Buku composite with stock stagger settings in a Truggy that is geared up a tooth over stock the bottom end is going to be lacking...just gearing a truggy up a tooth has a big effect on it, adding in a staggered composite clutch and its really going to labor..
As for the pipes... the longer manifold will likely give you better low RPM performance, but at some cost to your top end...right now your looking for more bottom end so I am going to suggest you go to a longer manifold.....However if you are indeed geared up a extra tooth then I am going to tell you to hold off on any pipe changes and put your car back to stock gearing...also what size carb insert are you running in it ?
on me ......And i guess it is black oxide coating on the crankface so it is hardcoated, but it is strictly a cosmetic treatment and would offer no performance advantages like a DLC coated crank which some of the JP's apparently had...Anyways what is stock gearing on your truggy ? and what truggy is it ?
And I thought you were running a buku with stock spring stagger settings....did you change that ?
If you are running a Buku composite with stock stagger settings in a Truggy that is geared up a tooth over stock the bottom end is going to be lacking...just gearing a truggy up a tooth has a big effect on it, adding in a staggered composite clutch and its really going to labor..
As for the pipes... the longer manifold will likely give you better low RPM performance, but at some cost to your top end...right now your looking for more bottom end so I am going to suggest you go to a longer manifold.....However if you are indeed geared up a extra tooth then I am going to tell you to hold off on any pipe changes and put your car back to stock gearing...also what size carb insert are you running in it ?
You are going way off! A few posts back I posted my exact set up for you. Its a tki 3 ( buggy of course) I wont bust on you too hard I know you deal with a lot of people. I run 8mm restrictor. Only thing I changed now is from the factory stagger to a medium aggressive all equal tension stall. I think at this point Ill be more of a help to me. Thanks for the suggestions. The ONLY things that have really driven me close to the powerband I'm looking for with this engine are gearing down and running the monster, the 2013!! Looks like ill be going back to the 2013. Right now its 46/13 (stock gearing) Wen i get funds Ill be running the lightweight 48t spur and 13 bell with a 2013 and 8mm restrictor. I know that will unleash this monster like never before! On another note, my tune has had some to do with it too. Was still running on the rich side. I finally really leaned her out today. Now she is a couple ticks too lean but its blistering fast.Im surprised I didn't get the Novarossi pitch from you when I mentioned the Triton. To me it seems like a great engine and now has been confirmed for sure if you are for it.
#8005
Hey guys, hope one of you gurus can chime in. Some guy suggested that with a new pre oiled filter to first extract the "excess" oil from the filter before installing. Like he's saying from the factory that they come with a bit too much oil. He claimed if not it could affect tune and performance. really?
#8007
Simple: Efra 2032! Even with a small venturi you'll outrun many other engines on the straight. You still have a ton of bottom end power.
#8008
Sorry for the noob question but what are the performance characteristics of the 9886 & 2096 pipes? Running P5xlt's in both buggy & truggy just trying to figure out what pipes would would best for each.
#8010
I was super impressed with it. My buddy was running one in his 3.0 buggy. Wasnt even fully broken in yet and it was ripping hard from bottom to top and SILKY SMOOTH. Was also getting between 10:30-11 min runtime he claimed. He said he was running Drake's set up down to a t. His ride and Mito 4 were suuuuuper dialed. I surely wouldn't hesitate. If I wasn't getting a Triton next, I would get a Mito 4 or r5t 3.0 decisions decisions....



352Likes