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Old 03-23-2014 | 05:32 PM
  #6496  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
if you want it to make good performance try a 9886/41001..... then if you need to detune it run a 9901/41021 or a 2096/41021
What do you mean detune? Less power? More run time? Why do most of the pros that run the 4 port nova's use the 9901/41021? I would think they would benefit from more performance.
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Old 03-23-2014 | 06:25 PM
  #6497  
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Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla
What do you mean detune? Less power? More run time? Why do most of the pros that run the 4 port nova's use the 9901/41021? I would think they would benefit from more performance.
They like the feel of the 9901/41021....its mellow and smooth....... however if someone wanted more kick and more RPM then the 9886 works well..it makes more juice, but is not as smooth........
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Old 03-23-2014 | 10:48 PM
  #6498  
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I was testing a few pipes with a few Nova off road engines and the Max Power 2018 on road pipe was definitely the pick of the bunch. The difference between this and the off road pipes was noticeable, tank time was very similar too, only a 10 second difference.

The engine breathed so much better, more power all round and top end.
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Old 03-25-2014 | 06:58 PM
  #6499  
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Originally Posted by houston
use .70mm shimming and you are good , you can take them down to .60mm if you think its necessary , they come at .80mm for break in
Would this be the same for a plus 4 btts?
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Old 03-26-2014 | 07:48 AM
  #6500  
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Anyone try this carb yet





http://www.mugenseiki.com/novarossi_...etor_24066.htm
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Old 03-26-2014 | 11:06 AM
  #6501  
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I have a question on Novarossi P5. I am in the process of breaking in a new one. The engine is smooth on idle and generally makes good impression except for bering bump box killer.. It needs now to be preheated to min 90 C to get turnover... Yesterday, I dismantled it to examine how the break in process was going on. The piston/sleeve both are a mirrow, however there are several hairlines and a couple of more serious dings on the backplate and conrod.



I am quite technically literate but do not have much experience in nitro engines, however my idea is that rubbing the concord against the backplate might be something wrong as the aluminium powder might be pumped into combustion chamber causing premature wear of the working surfaces of the piston/sleeve..

Please let me know how yr backplate/conrod looked like after the break in especially on Novarossi. Other comments on what might be wrong and how to correct it are welcome!
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Old 03-26-2014 | 01:59 PM
  #6502  
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Originally Posted by Matroskin1975
I have a question on Novarossi P5. I am in the process of breaking in a new one. The engine is smooth on idle and generally makes good impression except for bering bump box killer.. It needs now to be preheated to min 90 C to get turnover... Yesterday, I dismantled it to examine how the break in process was going on. The piston/sleeve both are a mirrow, however there are several hairlines and a couple of more serious dings on the backplate and conrod.

I am quite technically literate but do not have much experience in nitro engines, however my idea is that rubbing the concord against the backplate might be something wrong as the aluminium powder might be pumped into combustion chamber causing premature wear of the working surfaces of the piston/sleeve..

Please let me know how yr backplate/conrod looked like after the break in especially on Novarossi. Other comments on what might be wrong and how to correct it are welcome!
It doesn't look too bad. The crank may have been pushed in slightly when you installed the tapered cone for the flywheel/clutch. Make sure you pull the crank outward as much as possible when you seat the tapered cone onto the crankshaft.
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Old 03-26-2014 | 02:20 PM
  #6503  
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Originally Posted by PERROTTO
It doesn't look too bad. The crank may have been pushed in slightly when you installed the tapered cone for the flywheel/clutch. Make sure you pull the crank outward as much as possible when you seat the tapered cone onto the crankshaft.
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Old 03-26-2014 | 06:31 PM
  #6504  
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Originally Posted by PERROTTO
It doesn't look too bad. The crank may have been pushed in slightly when you installed the tapered cone for the flywheel/clutch. Make sure you pull the crank outward as much as possible when you seat the tapered cone onto the crankshaft.
Thanks, I will certainly check it out
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Old 03-28-2014 | 08:48 AM
  #6505  
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Default Keep off break in

Hello all I have recently bought the keep off for my buggy and will attempt the break in when the weather dries out and warms up.

This is my first nova motor and my question is, After break in is done do you remove any head shims for running 30% or keep the shims in?
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Old 03-28-2014 | 02:18 PM
  #6506  
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Originally Posted by Kevin_M
Hello all I have recently bought the keep off for my buggy and will attempt the break in when the weather dries out and warms up.

This is my first nova motor and my question is, After break in is done do you remove any head shims for running 30% or keep the shims in?
Kevin,
once the engine reaches the 2 gallon mark you can remove a .2 shim and add a .1 shim to bring the deck height down to .7 if you need to, but most don't even mess with the shims.
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Old 03-28-2014 | 05:57 PM
  #6507  
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what this guy says^^^ if you find like the bottom is not what you want go down to 0.7.. i usually do it at the 3 gallon mark
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Old 03-28-2014 | 08:05 PM
  #6508  
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Originally Posted by beidle99
Kevin,
once the engine reaches the 2 gallon mark you can remove a .2 shim and add a .1 shim to bring the deck height down to .7 if you need to, but most don't even mess with the shims.
Thanks Nick. Ill try to remember that when I reach that gallon mark. But with this weather and my schedule i hope i can get it broken in. lol
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Old 03-29-2014 | 05:08 PM
  #6509  
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Got 2 tanks in today running great so far. Its starting up nicely and idling great. Keeping it nice and rich ill try to run a few more tanks in tomorrow.
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Old 03-30-2014 | 03:56 PM
  #6510  
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What does the Werks 2058 pipe go like on the Keep Off 7?
For truggy.
Cheers
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