EricF

Because the car is designed around round cells, not lipo's. Do the TCS rules allow the use of shorty lipos or do they have to round end lipo's?

Pygmy

The M05 Pro V2 has a square battery compartment.
Quotes from the marketing page :
"The new tweaks and enhancements take advantage of new battery technologies"
"Special feature 1: New Feature: The chassis is compatible with square-shaped battery packs."

Regardless of TCS rules, why the trouble of a redesign and why make "supporting square battery packs" their big marketing gimmick if they won't even supply normal parts to secure that battery as they do for round stickpacks ?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Still talking about this? Okay.

The round pack battery holder parts are a holdover from the days of NIMH stick pack batteries. They are still included because removing them would require changing a mold. Changing a mold is expensive.

They did not add new square battery holder parts for the same reason. Also,
they know that most racers will tape their batteries in anyway. The square battery hole is a generic size, meant to fit most of the "TC size" batteries on the market today.

That pretty much says it all.

tims06evomr

Thanks guys for the tips. Still waiting on getting mine in the mail

EricF

Whew... thanks for clearing that up... I had planned on talking about it out for at lest one more day or two... LOL

marcos graveyar

Some more M05 Ver.II Pro parts announced.
54613 OP1613 M-05 Ver.II Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft Set
54614 OP1614 M-05 Ver.II Carbon Reinforecd L Parts (Suspension Arms)
54615 OP1615 M-05 Ver.II 3 x 58mm Titanium Coated Suspension Shaft (2 pieces)
54623 OP1623 M Chassis Ring Fixed Type Wheel Axel

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

What is a "ring fixed type wheel axle"? It got lost in translation somewhere.

sosidge

Probably using a clip to hold the uj pin in rather than the grub screw. Its a standard part on the current Tc and buggy ujs, they work well.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Makes sense. Thanks!

niznai

You mean this kind of thing?

http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/im...tt02-015-1.jpg

They already have those axles in the TRF418 kits, would anything be different for the mini (I am thinking the wheel pin to bearing shoulder length might be different)?

Pygmy

Hi, I've just put my freshly built M05 Pro V2 on the (carpet) track for the first time, and it's a blast !

I had 2 main problems :
- there was no way to keep the car straight on the straight. It would either go left or right but not straight ahead.
- the rear was constantly breaking out. I made a lot of nice 180's, a couple of 360's and a few nice 720's. Looked great, but wasn't my intention.

The steering problem was two-fold; the servo saver somehow had some slack in it so it was possible to move the steering arm a little bit while the servo didn't move, and one of the plastic arms in the steering linkage didn't rotate freely around the screw but needed some force to be rotated.

I put on a 3racing servo saver that was available at the track which fixed the servosaver-slop, and I used a body reamer to *slightly* widen the hole in the plastic steering arm so it could rotate freely.
This made the car steer perfectly and suddenly going straight on the straight end wasn't a problem anymore. Yay !

But now for the rear breaking out. As mentioned, I'm running on carpet. As this was my first time on the track, I didn't have / use any traction compound.
I don't know if the rear breaking out (excessively) would be solved just by traction compound (I don't think so though), or needs some more car-tuning.

Any advice (or pointers to advice / links / related pagenumbers in this thread) on getting my car to behave better would be much appreciated!
(I used both RCTech search function and all my Google-Fu but I'm not sure what keywords I should be using)

Pygmy

Hi, I've just put my freshly built M05 Pro V2 on the (carpet) track for the first time, and it's a blast !

I had 2 main problems :
- there was no way to keep the car straight on the straight. It would either go left or right but not straight ahead.
- the rear was breaking out a lot. I could make some nice corners, and suddenly it would spin out. I made a lot of nice 180's, a couple of 360's and a few nice 720's. Looked spectacular, but wasn't my intention.

The steering problem was two-fold; the servo saver somehow had some slack in it so it was possible to move the steering arm a little bit while the servo didn't move, and one of the plastic arms in the steering linkage didn't rotate freely around the screw but needed some force to be rotated.
I put on a 3racing servo saver that was available at the track which fixed the servosaver-slop, and I used a body reamer to *slightly* widen the hole in the plastic steering arm so it could rotate freely.
This made the car steer / center perfectly and suddenly going straight on the straight end wasn't a problem anymore. Yay !

But now for the rear breaking out. As mentioned, I'm running on carpet.
I'm using Sweep 33 tires all around.
5mm ride height.
Blue springs in front, 40wt shock oil.
Yellow springs in rear, 35wt shock oil.
Stock diff with anti-wear grease.
As this was my first time on the track, I didn't have / use any traction compound.
I don't know if the rear breaking out (excessively) would be solved just by traction compound (I don't think so though), or needs some more car-tuning.

Any advice (or pointers to advice / links / related pagenumbers in this thread) on getting my car to behave better would be much appreciated!
(Apologies if this has been answered tons of times before but I used both RCTech search function and all my Google-Fu to no avail - I'm not sure what keywords I should be using)

marcos graveyar

What shock set-up/rear camber/tyre/insert settings were you using ?

Pygmy

Sweep 33 pre-mountd tires.
Default kit camber,
5mm ride height,
Blue springs in front, 40wt shock oil.
Yellow springs in rear, 35wt shock oil.

marcos graveyar

Are you sure you have the rear hubs on the correct side ?