caltek1

iTrader: (38)

When I fit sweeps to my MO5 , I normally use short TRF White springs up front and stand the front shocks up, using the outer or second outer hole on the Tamiya shock tower. I also run less front toe out and adjust the end point on my radio.
Just using radio settings may settle your car down without adjusting your setup. The harder springs will take away some of the front grip.
There are other things you can try but start with the above first.
Regards,
Calvin

Granpa

Personally,I like a car that turns in hard and has the back end stay in line. From looking at your set up, your car might be a little "twitchy". There are any number of things that you can do. Try them one at a time.

1. Raise the front ride height and/or lower the rear

2. Add a little toe out

3. Add a little rear camber

4. I know nothing about the 3 Racing springs, but from your description, they are too hard or stiff. So are all of the Tamiya springs except the new blacks and the neon springs in the 53333 spring set. Change your springs to the neon red or yellow up front and the blues in the rear.

5. Run softer shock oils in the rear and heavier in front

6. Add a rear roll bar

7. TX adjustments help also. You can slow down the servo speed, take out a little travel, run a little expo.

These are easy things to do. Just try them out one at a time. It only takes a couple of laps so don't waste your time running a bunch of laps with each change. If you analyze the changes, you'll see that they all either lessen front end grip or slow down the front end action.

Good luck

runar80

Thanks! The car feels very twitchy to inputs but has very good grip and balance. i can throw it into the back end sweeper without a hint of wanting to roll over. Just want to numb it down a bit.

Will try some changes. The club we run at has a cup going, Torque tuned motors and the normal hop ups. Really fun to get back into racing.

Granpa

In that case, do #1, 2, 6 & 7. Then add the rear roll bar. Leave the springs and shock oils for last. My approach to set ups is different than most. Most guys will start changing springs first. Altho, you are so far off on the springs, I'd be tempted to to go to the softer springs first. No, changed my mind, leave the springs and shock oil changes for last.

sosidge

Sounds to me like the car is handling well. So don't mess with the setup.

I'd suggest using the radio to take a little of the twitchiness out of the initial steering. Dial in a little negative exponential on the steering.

Blui3

You can order A part from http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...01p??&I=LXEVKH

Pygmy

Hey I'm just finishing up my M05 Pro V2, and now I see that to use a square battery the manual basically says "there's no way to keep square batteries in place, just tape them to the chassis".

Eh.... seriously ?
Does anybody know a better way to keep the battery in place ?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Yeah. Fiber tape is a pretty standard way to secure batteries. On my v2, I'm using a short pack and the battery holder only on one side. Works perfectly.

Pygmy

Ok, my bad, I'm just not used to that
Up until now I've only had Short Course / 1:8 offroad cars, and securing the battery is pretty important there because a battery coming loose can rip the innards of the car apart pretty bad. (And jumps can dislocate the battery pretty easily if you don't make sure it's absolutely 100% secured in place)

I've test-fitted my square lipo and it's basically loose in the chassis - there's slack space vertically, and it can move freely sideways. Basically, I don't have a clear idea of how I'd fit it securely.
Would you mind posting some close-ups from both sides showing how your battery placement works ?

Edit:
I did find this old post from someone using a square lipo in a "v1" M05 but that seems to be a modded version of the "round" battery setup : http://www.rctech.net/forum/10834511-post21.html

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

You can do this with the stock battery holders, modify them, or get the hop up part. http://www.rctech.net/forum/13316718-post21120.html

salze145

these A parts are for pro V2, and I think it would need to buy other parts to mount on my m05 pro...

Pygmy

I still think it's weird to spend all this time and effort on creating the M05 Pro V2, moving the motor in a few mm for better weight distribution and all that, and then say "well just stick the battery to the *top* side of the battery compartment with some tape and keep your fingers crossed you've put it up precisely balanced !".

You want the lipo as low as possible, secured tightly without any possibility of lateral movement, and easily swappable. This is the exact opposite.

To me it kind of feels like they were designing a wonderful car and at some point became tired and said "fork it, we'll do proper lipo placement in the M07 and M08"

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Lipos do vary in dimensions. Restricting the size of the battery compartment can limit what batteries would/could fit in the future. Also a little extra room can allow someone the ability to move the battery around to adjust the balance of the car.

As far as taping batteries, it is common on pan oval cars and many carbon fiber on-road cars to tape the batteries to the chassis. An easy solution for vertical movement on a chassis like the new M-05 is to use a foam spacer between the top of the battery and the chassis.

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For parking lot bashing, velcro is a decent option.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

If your racing cars tape is preferred as it saves weight and just works.
for parking lot fun I could see how this may annoy people, -yet I don't run any of my on-road cars on parking lots (too much debris).

Pygmy

So why supply a nice battery mount for the stickpacks then and not for the square lipo's ? It just doesn't make sense.