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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 10-30-2014, 08:55 PM
  #22291  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
You mean this link? http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...3#.VFKwiFvrl3l

Ha snayone else been experiencing binding in the gearbox on the new M05 when the car heats up, or has anyone looked into ways of sorting the problem out? I'm going to chuck in a V1 alloy motor plate to see if it makes a difference, but won't be able to test for at least a week.
Still fighting that?

Try the sleeve solution I suggested. You can go to your friendly local hobby shop and buy tubing in various sizes and materials (I have here copper, brass and aluminium) and cut a piece to size.
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:44 PM
  #22292  
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Gearbox binding is still present in my m03 if I try to shut the gearbox all the way. I wedge a little 1mm washer at the bottom of the gearcase and it created the necessary space in there to keep the gears free from too much binding... The gears are too big, the pitch is too big, the contact surface is too wide between the gears, and the whole system's rotational mass is huge.... Tamiya needs to rethink the design. My Nikko F1 had a way better running gearbox without bearings at all....
Also, using the carbon gear shafts made it all worse.....
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Old 10-30-2014, 10:59 PM
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Just out of curiosity, you're not trying to use the black "reinforced" gears in your M03 are you????? If you are, those are touch bigger than the "white" gears and need a little trim to make them work. Frankly, not worth the effort. IMO not any better than the stock ones.

If the stock gears are used, it is impossible to build a rough gear box in a M03. Yes, the parts need to be in good shape, but that's a given.
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Old 10-31-2014, 12:20 AM
  #22294  
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Originally Posted by niznai
Still fighting that?

Try the sleeve solution I suggested. You can go to your friendly local hobby shop and buy tubing in various sizes and materials (I have here copper, brass and aluminium) and cut a piece to size.
Of course I am. If I wasn't obsessed with exercises in futility, I wouldn't get any exercise at all. I've got it apart right now for a diff rebuild. Did find a lot of carpet fluff jammed in the back of the gearbox, but nothing that would make a noise. With the motor removed, the drivetrain was more sluggish than when I built it. Played around with loosening screws, no real change. I'll just put it back together (carefully) tomorrow. I still don't have the motivation to sleeve anything.

Interesting point about the new version of the motor plate. I'd noticed before that there was a 1.5mm recess cut into the motor side. What I didn't notice was the 1.6mm shaved off of the spur gear boss, thus necessitating the 1.6mm spacer behind the spur gear. Interesting, but why?
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Old 10-31-2014, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Of course I am. If I wasn't obsessed with exercises in futility, I wouldn't get any exercise at all. I've got it apart right now for a diff rebuild. Did find a lot of carpet fluff jammed in the back of the gearbox, but nothing that would make a noise. With the motor removed, the drivetrain was more sluggish than when I built it. Played around with loosening screws, no real change. I'll just put it back together (carefully) tomorrow. I still don't have the motivation to sleeve anything.

Interesting point about the new version of the motor plate. I'd noticed before that there was a 1.5mm recess cut into the motor side. What I didn't notice was the 1.6mm shaved off of the spur gear boss, thus necessitating the 1.6mm spacer behind the spur gear. Interesting, but why?

Perhaps because they still insist on the user setting the pinion on the motor with their old plastic contraption which would give the wrong pinion protrusion given the motor recess isn't there any more hence you have to bring the spur out by the same amount.
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Old 10-31-2014, 03:08 AM
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hi,

I bought a m05 pro and has the chassis for rounded lipos. There is an optional part for the m05 to fit normal touring lipos?

thanks!
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Old 10-31-2014, 03:10 AM
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Default MO5 V2

This is what I found inside my MO5 V2 after race night the other week on low grip asphalt. There was also a small pebble wedged in the teeth of the TOP Sabre FWD oil gear diff, but it was salvageable. I have since blocked all ingress points and will see how successful I am.
I am also using this body at one of our large tracks and found it to push a little but still gave me my fastest laps.
Will put some other photos up also.
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Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-20141024_173707.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20141024_173647.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20141012_135721.jpg  
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Old 10-31-2014, 03:13 AM
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Default More MO5 V2

My MO5 V2 with shorty pack fitted, race ready.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-20141003_182044.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20140916_162625.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20140916_162432.jpg  
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Old 10-31-2014, 03:24 AM
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Sorry Jim, but the gear train in my MO5 V2 is very free, even when hot. My car uses the standard spur and and middle gear as supplied in the kit, ( white parts), and Top oil gear diff. I am also using the steel gear shafts as the weight is good in the front end. I also use Nulon Ezi glide clear silicone lubricant on my gears. Never had an issue with it.
My droop screws are not used as I am using my shocks directly from my MO5 V1built to 56.5mm in length. I use three hole pistons and 350 weight oil front and rear. The car is setup to suit my driving style and work with our control tyres.
Anyway have fun racing
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Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-20140916_162642.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20140916_162713.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20140916_162946.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20140916_162819.jpg  
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Old 10-31-2014, 03:31 AM
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Hello Salze 145.
The only way to fit the square lipo TC type batteries is to purchase the new MO5 V2 A parts when they are released. The other option is to dremel your standard MO5 chassis, which is a popular method in Asia.
Regards,
Calvin.
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Old 10-31-2014, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by caltek1
Hello Salze 145.
The only way to fit the square lipo TC type batteries is to purchase the new MO5 V2 A parts when they are released. The other option is to dremel your standard MO5 chassis, which is a popular method in Asia.
Regards,
Calvin.
thanks for the reply!

You know when they will be release these A parts?
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Old 10-31-2014, 05:38 AM
  #22302  
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I am not using the black reinforced gears in my m03, but I think my gearbox problems are due to the fact that I was running it with a 7t brushed motor for a while , bashing around before I switched to silvercans... The new bearings I put in there did not fit smoothly, but I did not want spend too much on the car, so I used the 1mm washer to space things out a little inside the box... It got smoother as I kept running it, but I am sure there is still some friction in there......
Originally Posted by Granpa
Just out of curiosity, you're not trying to use the black "reinforced" gears in your M03 are you????? If you are, those are touch bigger than the "white" gears and need a little trim to make them work. Frankly, not worth the effort. IMO not any better than the stock ones.

If the stock gears are used, it is impossible to build a rough gear box in a M03. Yes, the parts need to be in good shape, but that's a given.
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Old 10-31-2014, 11:01 AM
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I bought a m05 pro and has the chassis for rounded lipos. There is an optional part for the m05 to fit normal touring lipos?
-why not just use a rounded lipo? -there are plenty of great options.
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Old 10-31-2014, 12:08 PM
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Because most people don't want to buy dedicated batteries for one car when they have five.

But for our illumination, would you care to name one of those great options?
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Old 10-31-2014, 12:20 PM
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Just came back to racing after 3 years and maidened my new m05 last night.

A bit rusty in the setup department so hear me out... The car has 3-hole 40wt all around, blue springs up front, yellow in the back (3racing spring set), set arms level. Sweep 40s front, 25 back, gear diff.

Seems too agile and turns in very hard but does stays on all 4. Just want to calm it down, should I try harder springs and thicker oil up front?
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