Dawg, you might try here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go

or call Steve at Speedtech, his site is down right now for rebuild and inventory. his phone # is 909-869-9443

Should be start set-up on carpet (rubber tire)?

Hey,

Can someone explain the C1 & C2 thing to me? Like which one on which side does what?

So now the 415 has been around for a while... wat are some of the good aftermarket parts to get for this car to eliminate some of tamiya's in-built flaws?

I'm trying out some rpm ball ends to see if they last longer than the stock ones (with less play).

Anyone discovered some good quality bearings to eliminate the failure prob of the small 950's in the lw suspension?

I dont think there is a difference of c1 and c2, I had them both off and examned them. As a matter of fact I had swapped them, because one of my upper king pins kept coming loose. So I used a little loctite on the uppers, and a coarse threaded 3x12 screw on the lowers. Problem fixed. Now the hubs are on the car.

So did you see in a difference in lap times by adding pro-squat? Or did this just help make the car feel more driveable?

How do you have the roll center set up front? Also, what rear toe-in are you running?

Sorry about all the questions, but I have yet to put my car down on the track and trying to do all the bench racing I can now to use this information when I start to dial the car in in January.

I dont know if any of guys are from DC/MD/VA area, but THE TRACK in Gaithersburg, MD is having a race on January 29th.

if you look at the steering blocks, it is shorter on one side from top to bottom...... therefore swapping them will change the roll center ever so slightly...

Thanks, I noticed that but was wondering what the change did in the car's handling?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rcfiend

Quote:

Posted By Neil Rabara[ Keith, I'm not sure but I think the new World Champion Parts Kit comes with it. I saw this on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...581509&rd=1/QUOTE]

Whatup Neil. Hey the worlds kit only comes with the rear blocks not the front bridge blocks. The rear blocks dont have the bridge to clear the front belt.

Hope you and the family had a Merry Xmas.

Keith

Hope you had a Merry Christmas as well. So, I take it that you picked up a 415. Are you thinking about TCS?

I've been thinking about getting a 415 but thought the setup sheet could be cleaned up a bit for us non-japanese speaking drivers.

Check it out.

http://209.151.201.222/smash/trf415lw.pdf

Yes I picked up a 415 and a EV04, trying to decide which one I'm going to keep. As it stands the 415 has a slight edge.

Keith

Keith you have a PM

My laps were quicker overall after the change, and my best lap improved by two tenths.

Rear toe-1.5 degrees (al. 1deg upright with 1C-1D blocks)

My front roll centers are...well...interesting.
I have a lowered ballstud in the upper-outer position (foam tire clearance). I have a 1mm shim under the upper-inner ballstud.
On the bottom, I have flipped the roll center blocks, ground the area where the screw normally protrudes flat as I described above, and placed 4mm of shims underneath. This, in effect, lowers the pivot point by 1mm, giving the car more steering. My front-rear block is a 1A (which, when flipped, becomes a bridge), and my front-front block is a 1B.
This 1A-1B front combo also gives .5deg of in-board toe out, helping the car react quicker into and out of a corner.

This picture should clear up any confusion.

I'm missing the A1 part of the differential. The plastic piece that the diff nut sets into. Is that part hiding somewhere on a parts tree, or was it suppose to be in the same bag as the differential?

It's in the bumper holder/body post parts tree if I am not mistaken.